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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: Eqcons on May 11, 2008, 01:04:28 PM
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Started having a problem with my cruise control today. Riding along with it on, happily, and suddenly it went off, and would not re-engage. Stopped a while later, and having switched the bike off, and back on, when I set off again, it worked. Five seconds later off it went again... As before, it would not re-engage. Stopped for longer next time, and obviously the bike cooled. Set off again and tested it, ran for a couple of minutes, it was fine, so turned it off. Later we got back on to the freeway, I turned it on, 5 seconds later, off it goes, would not re-engage.
Any ideas anybody?? :nixweiss:
Jim
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Found how to get the diagnostic codes on another site:
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Here is how to pull the cruise control dropout codes and what they mean. They tell you why the cruise control disengaged. The module stores the last 8 dropout codes starting with the most recent dropout.
To invoke the readout:
Engine OFF, cruise switch OFF
Push cruise set/resume switch to SET and HOLD it there while switching to IGNITION (do NOT start engine)
RELEASE the set/resume switch and watch the cruise enabled lamp....it will flash out 3 digits encoded as a series of pulses in the following pattern >>> the first digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the second digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the third digit is string of 1/4 second flashes and it stops.....write down the number of flashes in each of the three segments and you will get a three digit code
if you want to verify the flashes you just saw, then push the switch to RESUME and it will repeat the three digit code that you just read.....
to get the next three digit code that is stored, push the switch to SET and three more digits will be pulsed out in the same format as above.....continue advancing the codes by toggling to the SET (or verify them using RESUME)
there are 8 codes stored and once the buffer is empty, the cruise engaged lamp stays on solid.........if you want to repeat all 8 again, then toggle the switch to SET
to exit the readout mode switch the ignition to OFF
You now have 8 three-digit codes written on your arm....their meaning is:
111 No Codes, memory clear
112 Throttle roll off
113 Cruise switch turned off
122 frt or rear brake applied
211 Coast interval longer than 6 seconds (S/C button)
212 speed dropped below 30 mph while s/c button held
213 speed below 26 mph or above 90 mph
221 speed drops more than 15 mph below speed set point
222 speed decrease exceeds 20 mph per second
223 vehicle speed sensor input
231 rpm exceeds 5000
232 tach signal lost
242 high rate of engine rpm change (e.g., hit ice or slipping tire)
341 low voltage
internal failure if code 311, 312, 313, 321, 323, 331, 332, 333, 342, 343, 351, 352, 353, 361, 362, 363, 371, 423, 432, 777
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Now the first few codes mine gives are 122 - but there's no way the brake was applied, and the brake lights work fine, needing a decent amount of travel before the brake light comes on. Further back in the sequence I have a couple of 312 codes though, which is, according to the above, "internal failure". But after those there are a few 122, and the most recent time it went off was with this problem...
Again, anybody any ideas?
Jim
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I had the same problem, There was a code and i had a check eng light. They reset the ECM
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I have seen a lot of problems with tail light bulbs, stock and leds, wiring behind the lens, under the fender and turn signal/brake light modules. these are easy to check and eliminate as the problem, good luck.
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I had the same problem, There was a code and i had a check eng light. They reset the ECM
I'm running a TMAT, not the standard ECM, so that won't help...
Jim
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I have seen a lot of problems with tail light bulbs, stock and leds, wiring behind the lens, under the fender and turn signal/brake light modules. these are easy to check and eliminate as the problem, good luck.
Pretty certain it's nothing like that - easy to replicate the fault, so that rules that sort of thing out I think.
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Done a bit more work on this. Definitely seems to be related to having driven hard; I did 7 or 8 miles at 40mph, cruise control on and off, no problem. I cancelled cruise with the brakes 8 times, thinking that that would fill the buffer with 8 sequences of 122, then rode harder with it on until it failed. Buffer still contains the same 8 codes:
122
122
122
122
312
312
312
312
So it looks as if the buffer isn't saving new codes. I tried unplugging and replugging the fuse, and unplugging/replugging the connector to the cruise control unit, tapping the unit gently (you never know...!) and playing with the cable at the throttle end. No change.
Does anyone have the electrical service manual to tell me how to reset the cruise control module so it can start to save codes in the buffer again, and to see if error code 312 has more meaning than "internal failure"?
Jim
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Jim,
The manual doesn't give any detailed information on the various "internal failure" codes, they are all lumped together with an action note of "replace cruise module". There also isn't a reset procedure listed to clear the buffer.
One item you could check is the brake light relay, located in the main fuse block. I've run into relays on other vehicles over the years that would break down and self activate under certain conditions like vibration or elevated temps. Other than that, it may be time for a warranty replacement of the module.
Jerry
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may also be the micro switch on the throttle cable. not sure it can be tested by either unplugging it our jumping it. i had it go on mine sounds like the same symptoms
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may also be the micro switch on the throttle cable. not sure it can be tested by either unplugging it our jumping it. i had it go on mine sounds like the same symptoms
Must be able to unplug it. Had a cable break on a 2000 RK with cruise installed. Broke out in the boonies of Montana. Came up with a cable of similar length but for w/o cruise and used that for as long as I kept the bike. Still had cruise. Didn't have the shut off from throttle action of course. But had cruise :2vrolijk_21: .
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may also be the micro switch on the throttle cable. not sure it can be tested by either unplugging it our jumping it. i had it go on mine sounds like the same symptoms
That would have been my first guess, as, of course, I've just replaced the throttle cables....... I couldn't see how that would do it though, but maybe I should try disconnecting it.
Jim
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Must be able to unplug it. Had a cable break on a 2000 RK with cruise installed. Broke out in the boonies of Montana. Came up with a cable of similar length but for w/o cruise and used that for as long as I kept the bike. Still had cruise. Didn't have the shut off from throttle action of course. But had cruise :2vrolijk_21: .
Disconnecting the switch sounds like a plan then (since the throttle cables are new!)
Jim
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Jim,
The manual doesn't give any detailed information on the various "internal failure" codes, they are all lumped together with an action note of "replace cruise module". There also isn't a reset procedure listed to clear the buffer.
One item you could check is the brake light relay, located in the main fuse block. I've run into relays on other vehicles over the years that would break down and self activate under certain conditions like vibration or elevated temps. Other than that, it may be time for a warranty replacement of the module.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry - I'll try switching the relays round.
A couple of things I didn't mention, guys, that may be related. On Saturday, I was approaching the freeway, so I switched on the cruise control (the dash switch I mean, not that I set a speed), and the tach and speedo dropped to zero and all the warning lights came on. I stopped, switched off the ignition, switched on again and carried on, and all was well - that has not recurred. Saturday evening I washed the dead livestock off the front of the bike, went to put it in the garage, and it wouldn't start - just a click from the solenoid. Tried once or twice then it went. I put that down to just having tipped a couple of buckets of water in the area of the solenoid/battery connection etc. Again, hasn't recurred.
I think the favourite at the moment has to be the microswitch on the cable, so I'll try running with it disconnected (never use throttle roll-off anyway!)
As the 8 codes in the module buffer never change, I suspect that the 312 codes may be irrelevant.
(or maybe since they never change, the module IS faulty????)
Jim
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do you have your stock ecm to swich out and take a short ride?
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do you have your stock ecm to swich out and take a short ride?
Unfortunately the TMAT uses wide band O2 sensors, so the switch isn't that simple - may do that though, as I'm intending to switch back to the stock ECM and a SERT in any case...
Jim
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Thanks Jerry - I'll try switching the relays round.
A couple of things I didn't mention, guys, that may be related. On Saturday, I was approaching the freeway, so I switched on the cruise control (the dash switch I mean, not that I set a speed), and the tach and speedo dropped to zero and all the warning lights came on. I stopped, switched off the ignition, switched on again and carried on, and all was well - that has not recurred. Saturday evening I washed the dead livestock off the front of the bike, went to put it in the garage, and it wouldn't start - just a click from the solenoid. Tried once or twice then it went. I put that down to just having tipped a couple of buckets of water in the area of the solenoid/battery connection etc. Again, hasn't recurred.
I think the favourite at the moment has to be the microswitch on the cable, so I'll try running with it disconnected (never use throttle roll-off anyway!)
As the 8 codes in the module buffer never change, I suspect that the 312 codes may be irrelevant.
(or maybe since they never change, the module IS faulty????)
Jim
My thought also. The codes should still be rolling over, and if they are not, that would definitely make me think internal module fault of some kind.
Jerry
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My thought also. The codes should still be rolling over, and if they are not, that would definitely make me think internal module fault of some kind.
Jerry
Yup. Oh why are these things never simple! :nixweiss:
Jim
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eqcons, any luck yet?
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eqcons, any luck yet?
Work has been busy every day this week, so haven't had a chance to ride. I'm going to try disconnecting the microswitch on the cable, and if that doesn't help, I'll just ask the dealer to order a replacement cruise control module.
Jim
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My cruise control cuts out like this and the problem is the front brake switch. sometimes when going down the road the brake switch makes contact. It does cause a code, I forget the code. When it quits, I can usually get it to work by activating it while holding the front brake lever out. I need to get the switch replaced but have not.
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My cruise control cuts out like this and the problem is the front brake switch. sometimes when going down the road the brake switch makes contact. It does cause a code, I forget the code. When it quits, I can usually get it to work by activating it while holding the front brake lever out. I need to get the switch replaced but have not.
Wish it was that simple on mine!
Jim
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Well, I changed the TMAT for the factory ECM and O2 sensors, loaded the SERT map, and it looked as though that cured the cruise control problem. Until it came back again. Dealer has now ordered a new cruise control module....
Next problem - my radio/cd decided to seek/fast forward all by itself for a while last week. Can't wait to see if that happens again too.
Jim
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I had the same problem on my 2K ultra. It was the ground strap behind the fairing that grounds wiring to the steering head. See photo.
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I had the same problem on my 2K ultra. It was the ground strap behind the fairing that grounds wiring to the steering head. See photo.
Interesting, Torker! I'll check that too. For a few days there, the cruise control wouldn't engage at all, but after the bike was washed, it did engage again (but still self-disengage after a minute or two) which adds weight to that theory.
I have the new module, and I guess I'll fit that in any case, but since I do have a few strange electrical gremlins, I'll check all the earths I can find too, I think.
Jim
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I first noticed my problems with the radio volume going up and down with turns. Then the cruise started cutting out.
I just happend to find this while I had it up on the jack stand and was turning the fairing side to side looking for a loose wire or connection. I guess you could call it chit luck.
Good luck
Tork
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I first noticed my problems with the radio volume going up and down with turns. Then the cruise started cutting out.
I just happend to find this while I had it up on the jack stand and was turning the fairing side to side looking for a loose wire or connection. I guess you could call it chit luck.
Good luck
Tork
One of my bizarre little electrical gremlins involved the radio deciding to go into seek mode all by itself, so this is definitely worth a look, Tork.
Jim
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Well, despite the error code indicating "internal failure replace module", replacing the cruise control unit hasn't fixed it. :( And I've ruled out the roll-off switch :( :( So tomorrow I'll be checking the earths and other connections under the fairing. :-\
Jim