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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Farm boy on February 05, 2019, 08:53:30 PM
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What are the pros and cons of breaking in an engine on the dyno ?
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If you a using a qualified tuner, on the dyno would be my choice. They will insure the AF ratio will be right from the start and will monitor the temperatures on the bike as the rings seat. I was interesting to see it take longer and longer for the temperatures to come up as the rings seated and the tune took shape
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S&S motors take 1k mile break in along with not exceeding certain rpm at certain mileage, varying speeds, not getting motor too hot. I wouldn't want a motor that someone did break in on a Dyno! I always was very strict and changed oil at 50, 500, 1000, 2000 until the 1500 or 2000 mile mark. Motors are too expensive to mess up.
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Breaking in on a dyno is a good thing. Monitoring the temps and AFR is the right way to
go about it. (I'm going to break mine in like that as soon as my pipe gets here)
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Breaking in on a dyno is a good thing. Monitoring the temps and AFR is the right way to
go about it. (I'm going to break mine in like that as soon as my pipe gets here)
Some people just equate a dyno with beating on and flogging a motor :end:
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yeah, that...
just because it's on a dyno, doesn't mean that it has to be ran at wot. all the 'rules' still apply, varying engine speeds, loads, etc. you're just able to closely monitor the state of the engine while you're doing it.
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Like others have stated, break in on the dyno is the best way as you can monitor all of the conditions that can cause damage during break in. Heat, detonation, and air fuel ratios are critical. I do all of my break-ins on the dyno adjusting the AFR and timing along the way. The first 50 or so miles are critical and the motor never sees RPM's over about 3,000 during that time.
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I see, so breaking in on a dyno, is just like breaking in a diesel on a dyno. Vary the load and monitor closely. Make adjustments as necessary.
Now to find a dyno/tuner in Indiana, that will use TTS.
Any suggestions ?
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I see, so breaking in on a dyno, is just like breaking in a diesel on a dyno. Vary the load and monitor closely. Make adjustments as necessary.
Now to find a dyno/tuner in Indiana, that will use TTS.
Any suggestions ?
valley racing in northern Indiana or jim kenedy in central illinios
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i had two broken on dyno , seems ok to me, get a good patient tuner :huepfenlol2:
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I have done it both ways with plenty of good results.
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i had two broken on dyno , seems ok to me, get a good patient tuner :huepfenlol2:
Did you mean "in" and not "on"? :nervous:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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I see, so breaking in on a dyno, is just like breaking in a diesel on a dyno. Vary the load and monitor closely. Make adjustments as necessary.
Now to find a dyno/tuner in Indiana, that will use TTS.
Any suggestions ?
Check out these guys
Frank @ Drago’s Bikeworks near Rockford Illinois
Jason @ C & S Speed shop east St. Louis
Horsepower Inc in Indiana
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Many many opinions on this. I don't follow that 'not over 3000' crap either. As long as the tune
is pretty close, you can safely (but briefly) approach WOT to red line. This is important for several
reasons.
Mainly, you're putting maximum pressure against the rings on the freshly honed cylinders. That ensures
a good ring seat and seal. Keeping an eye on AFR, or EGTs, head and oil temps in the process.
Don't beat on it, but don't treat it like grandma in her ford Maverick either. To each their own. I break
in V8s on the dyno the same way. Change the oil and cut the filter open right afterwards. Good to go.
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Some say to take out synthetic oil and use dinosaur oil for break in. What do you guys think?
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I have always used non- syn oil for break-ins. Never an issue. At 500 miles change over to syn.
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I have always used non- syn oil for break-ins. Never an issue. At 500 miles change over to syn.
Cut the filter open and unravel the paper (You can learn allot about the engine's condition) Cut the
filter open at the top, pull out the element, cut it apart with a utility knife and unravel it.
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Dyno break in let’s me know where the engine and it’s perimeters are the whole time it is running from the very first heat cycle to a finished tuned motorcycle. The other way is a huge unknown for how many miles and then AFR and timing is going to be addressed after break in?
Amazing what an honest conversation with tech reps at S&S can tell you about liability and selling engines to the unknown masses.
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Dyno break in let’s me know where the engine and it’s perimeters are the whole time it is running from the very first heat cycle to a finished tuned motorcycle. The other way is a huge unknown for how many miles and then AFR and timing is going to be addressed after break in?
Amazing what an honest conversation with tech reps at S&S can tell you about liability and selling engines to the unknown masses.
LOL. That's like selling guns to untrained personnel. Some people shouldn't be allowed to buy certain stuff. lol
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Just some misconceptions on what a dyno can do and what it actually is. Just a tool. Like stated above. Dyno does not equate WOT only. When in all honesty. WOT is the easiest and fastest area to tune. Everything is in the far most right column. On your average street build with non tunable pipes. 3-4 iterations and that area is done with fuel and spark. Idle, start up, warm up, parking lot speeds area, medium cruise, heavy cruise, low speed roll ons, throttle progressivity tables.......... is where the bulk of tuning time goes. There is just no sheet or printed results you give out in this area so it isn't associated with dyno's for most people.
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Just some misconceptions on what a dyno can do and what it actually is. Just a tool. Like stated above. Dyno does not equate WOT only. When in all honesty. WOT is the easiest and fastest area to tune. Everything is in the far most right column. On your average street build with non tunable pipes. 3-4 iterations and that area is done with fuel and spark. Idle, start up, warm up, parking lot speeds area, medium cruise, heavy cruise, low speed roll ons, throttle progressivity tables.......... is where the bulk of tuning time goes. There is just no sheet or printed results you give out in this area so it isn't associated with dyno's for most people.
+1 You're right on the mark.
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If you are talking about a brand new motor before any heat cycles that can get pretty expensive for someone who's breaking it in on someone's dyno as they're sitting around waiting for it to heat up and cool down over and over. I suggested this to a local tuner and he said sure I can do it if you want to pay a hundred dollars an hour to me because my dyno will be tied up as it's going through the cool down and heat up cycles.
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If you are talking about a brand new motor before any heat cycles that can get pretty expensive for someone who's breaking it in on someone's dyno as they're sitting around waiting for it to heat up and cool down over and over. I suggested this to a local tuner and he said sure I can do it if you want to pay a hundred dollars an hour to me because my dyno will be tied up as it's going through the cool down and heat up cycles.
I would find another tuner. The good ones do this by default. You don't need to let it cool completely between 'cycles' either. just let it rest a bit while you go do something else. My guy does them like it's his own motor.
Larry Buie, (Bikes by Buie). A great guy that knows WTF he's doing!
It's not rocket science.
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People have this stereotypical bias that a dyno needs to be a destructive testing machine. When done right they start with the equivalent of heat cycles but they are stopping and continuously uploading corrected VEs to get the mixture right first and early. This running is done at low speeds but loads and unloads the rings. They control heat with fans. If somebody was inclined to take the bike before a full power tune was done I would limit the rpms. Reality however is the motor is already seated after the initial runs. If not, then it will never be right. The importance of a corrected afr can't be overemphasized. Guys screw up break in with idling to some sort of heat cycle routine. Very little splash lubrication! Not good.