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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Ridgerunr on December 30, 2018, 03:57:30 PM
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What kind of power can be expected using S&S .570 cams in a 110" keeping the stock pistons and ported heads?
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as long as compression is bumped up to 10.0-1 to 10.25-1,we`ve had very nice results with 570`s in 110 motors (125+125+)
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Are the OE cast pistons good at 10.2:1 ?
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The 110 pistons are forged
I would not excessively surface a set of heads just to run a 570 cam
Great cam......just others out there that would be better for a heavy bagger
Zippers 587 is a go to cam with a bump in compression
Would strongly suggest rebuilding the heads.....valvejob,seals,springs.
They would be off.....good time to do it
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Didn't know OE 110 pistons were forged. In that case I would use domed to get to 10-10.2:1. This will be going into a FXR. Thanks TorqueInc.
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Conveniently available are a good selection of .001 and .005 OS pistons so a light hone can bring the cylinder back in for a fresh start. I too would recommend a refurb on the heads which includes a more sensible but not beehive spring selection when done here. The compression can be picked up by 0 decking the cylinders and a small dome, if needed.
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I agree with not milling heads to get to 10.25-1,id get pistons,that said id go 113"
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Conveniently available are a good selection of .001 and .005 OS pistons so a light hone can bring the cylinder back in for a fresh start. I too would recommend a refurb on the heads which includes a more sensible but not beehive spring selection when done here. The compression can be picked up by 0 decking the cylinders and a small dome, if needed.
What about porting? Or are the ports untouched good for 120/120?
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At this point just grab the Suburban speed 10.7 to 1 117 slip on kit and call it a day :)
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At this point just grab the Suburban speed 10.7 to 1 117 slip on kit and call it a day :)
There are a number of things that become constraints at about the 110" 115hp level including the throttle body, injectors, and the heads. Understand this is not a line in the sand but a gradual decline showing as an early drop off at high rpms. Torque remains. The 117 kits fix this with the proper pieces. The 117 kit with head work is a sweet combination, better yet don't use the kit and just the cylinders and use KB domed pistons, cam and throttle body and purchase a heavy breather. The 259E cam is much maligned but turns on real well with the combination I am describing.
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TorqueInc, what is concidered ideal C.R. for the 587 cam?
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TorqueInc, what is concidered ideal C.R. for the 587 cam?
Down south 9.8-9.9
Up north 10:1
10.2 with a killer tune
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"There are a number of things that become constraints at about the 110" 115hp level including the throttle body, injectors, and the heads"
I'll assume that answers my question on porting.
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OK I just didn't want to say you hit a hard wall there. It isn't all that hard to get a 117 kit to hit 140 squared with the right parts and ported heads, still a streetable combination that is reliable for touring. That comes of course with ported heads and a cam in a different class than the S&S mentioned.
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What are you doing on the M8 heads as far as springs? (They're using bee-hives)
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What kind of power can be expected using S&S .570 cams in a 110" keeping the stock pistons and ported heads?
You'll need to get the compression up to a reasonable level for a S&S 570 (around 10:1). Milling the crap
out of the heads is not the way to accomplish that. Head milling is for fine tuning the CR, not for making
drastic changes. (There are allot of reasons why that's the case)
Put a dome in there to get it close to what you're wanting, then mill them a little (if needed) to bring it up
to where you want it. 5-6 CC domes are going to be needed.
If you mill too much off the head to get the squeeze right, you end up with valve to piston clearance and
intake manifold fit problems. Put pistons in it!
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What are you doing on the M8 heads as far as springs? (They're using bee-hives)
M8 cams have less lift, no?
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For the most part, but everything is smaller too.
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I have a WT TC24D in a stock 110 that does pretty good (110/124). They don't make that cam anymore, but isn't a GMR 577 close to the 24D?
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I have a WT TC24D in a stock 110 that does pretty good (110/124). They don't make that cam anymore, but isn't a GMR 577 close to the 24D?
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MCE, who makes the pistons your describing?
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Keith Black part # 661c. Has a 4.2cc some. Would get you right at 10.0 to 1 with your stock heads.
I'd go .010 over. Priced pretty reasonable too
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Keith Black part # 661c. Has a 4.2cc some. Would get you right at 10.0 to 1 with your stock heads.
I'd go .010 over. Priced pretty reasonable too
:2vrolijk_21:
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Keith Black part # 661c. Has a 4.2cc some. Would get you right at 10.0 to 1 with your stock heads.
I'd go .010 over. Priced pretty reasonable too
Right on! KB pistons are very good and priced reasonably. I like them.
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Have another look in their catalog and instructions. The KB661LCA std is .001 os and allows a slight hone to bring it in plus has the line2line coating, a plus. Or is also available in .005 in that version. Put it in plates and hone only, no boring needed.
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Have another look in their catalog and instructions. The KB661LCA std is .001 os and allows a slight hone to bring it in plus has the line2line coating, a plus. Or is also available in .005 in that version. Put it in plates and hone only, no boring needed.
How are you torquing those down? (I don't see any bolt holes in those plates) Just wondering.... thanks
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Never work on pans or shovels? Arp studs washers and nuts.
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Never work on pans or shovels? Arp studs washers and nuts.
Yes, but I try not too.
I'm talking about about bolting the top plate to the cylinder, I see it now. (Mine have through holes)