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[speedy]

G`day gang,
                  I`m wanting to adjust the hydraulic clutch on my `06 SEFB today and wonder if anyone can shed light on exactly how to go about this?? If not I`ll just go about it blind.

Cheers,
           Speedy.

[grc]

G`day gang,
                  I`m wanting to adjust the hydraulic clutch on my `06 SEFB today and wonder if anyone can shed light on exactly how to go about this?? If not I`ll just go about it blind.

Cheers,
           Speedy.

Speedy,

There is no adjustment on the hydraulic clutch, other than bleeding any air out of the hydraulics.  Are you looking to do this just as preventative maintenance, or are you having a problem?

Jerry

[speedy]

Yeah I have a problem, with the clutch lever pulled right in the clutch is still just slightly engaging. Makes it particullarly hard to get neutral while stopped with the engine running. BTW there is no air in it. It is worse now that I have installed slightly larger grips.

[grc]

Yeah I have a problem, with the clutch lever pulled right in the clutch is still just slightly engaging. Makes it particullarly hard to get neutral while stopped with the engine running. BTW there is no air in it. It is worse now that I have installed slightly larger grips.

Therein lies one of the disadvantages of the H-D hydraulic clutch.  Even with the stock grips, the clutch just barely releases with the lever pulled in completely to the grip.  If you change to a larger diameter grip, the lever can't be pulled in as far and now you get clutch drag.

I don't know of any easy way to eliminate this problem other than going back to smaller diameter grips.  A master cylinder with a larger piston would help, or a different shape lever that allowed more travel before bottoming on the grip.  Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge neither of those items is available. 

Jerry

[speedy]

Is there no internal adjustment? If I remove the cover from the trans where the hydraulic hose goes in will there not be some form of adjustment there?

[grc]

Is there no internal adjustment? If I remove the cover from the trans where the hydraulic hose goes in will there not be some form of adjustment there?

Sorry, unfortunately there is no adjustment at all.  The cable clutches have an adjustable length pushrod for adjustment, but the hydraulic units have a nonadjustable rod.  Due to the way the system works, changing the length of the rod wouldn't accomplish anything anyway, other than perhaps cause the actuator to bottom out and actually reduce travel at the clutch.

If you have or can borrow a dial indicator, you can verify that your system is working as designed by measuring the actual travel at the pushrod.  You should have at least 0.065 inch (1.65 mm) travel at the pushrod when operating the lever from fully engaged to fully released (against the grip).  That is the minimum spec, most will have significantly more travel.

Some folks have had issues that were traced to a faulty actuator (internally bypassing, resulting in insufficient travel).  The dealer can replace or rebuild the actuator if that is the problem.  It is also possible to get air trapped at the banjo fitting for the fluid line at the master cylinder.  Bleeding just at the fitting on the release cover won't eliminate air trapped at that fitting, you would need to carefully loosen the banjo fitting slightly to bleed it (had to do that on my bike).  Just be careful to wrap a rag around the fitting and protect the paint from the DOT4 fluid. 

If the clutch doesn't release fully but the master cylinder and actuator check out OK, and all air is definitely purged from the system, then you may have to go back to a smaller diameter grip.

Jerry

[speedy]

Thanks Jerry for the very imformative indepth knowledge you have posted.
Before reading this I removed the derby cover and found there to be no adjustment but I also found none was needed either. As there was no freeplay at all, meaning that if I could adjust it, I would only introduce slippage.
I do have a dial indicator and could have measured the throw as you suggested, however it`s already back together. I probably will though next week some time get back in there and measure it just to be sure it`s right.
But I`m thinking it is probably within spec. The problem is as you said earlier that these HD hydraulic clutches are not suitable for thicker grips, even with the origional grips there is just only enough clutch lever travel available. I measured the grips I have on now at 42.5mm, the origionals at 38.5mm and another spare set I have at 37mm. I think I will probably put the smallest ones on which I`m sure will solve the problem. The other, much more expensive option would be a Grandeur Auto Clutch, which would work nicely but cost a lot. I`m really disappointed about the new grips not working as I had the same ones on my old bike and loved them because of the comfort factor, they are the neoprene foam rubber type, and I don`t like to wear gloves. Anyhow thanks again Jerry and I`ll update this thread if any thing else noteworthy happens.

Cheers,
           Speedy.

[Twolanerider]

Therein lies one of the disadvantages of the H-D hydraulic clutch.  Even with the stock grips, the clutch just barely releases with the lever pulled in completely to the grip.  If you change to a larger diameter grip, the lever can't be pulled in as far and now you get clutch drag.

I don't know of any easy way to eliminate this problem other than going back to smaller diameter grips.  A master cylinder with a larger piston would help, or a different shape lever that allowed more travel before bottoming on the grip.  Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge neither of those items is available. 

Jerry

Jerry, I've got larger grips that fortunately work without issue.  Also have had since the bike was new a set of levers from Iron Braid.  They (obviously) have a braid on them adding to the extra thickness of the larger diameter grips.  Now I'm wondering if the spoons from Iron Braid are shaped a bit different.  Don't have a stock set around here to compare against.  Damn, I'll probably be curious about this for a good 40 or 45 seconds before my mind wanders to something else.....

[AUSSIE_FLSTFSE]

Thanks Jerry for the very imformative indepth knowledge you have posted.
Before reading this I removed the derby cover and found there to be no adjustment but I also found none was needed either. As there was no freeplay at all, meaning that if I could adjust it, I would only introduce slippage.
I do have a dial indicator and could have measured the throw as you suggested, however it`s already back together. I probably will though next week some time get back in there and measure it just to be sure it`s right.
But I`m thinking it is probably within spec. The problem is as you said earlier that these HD hydraulic clutches are not suitable for thicker grips, even with the origional grips there is just only enough clutch lever travel available. I measured the grips I have on now at 42.5mm, the origionals at 38.5mm and another spare set I have at 37mm. I think I will probably put the smallest ones on which I`m sure will solve the problem. The other, much more expensive option would be a Grandeur Auto Clutch, which would work nicely but cost a lot. I`m really disappointed about the new grips not working as I had the same ones on my old bike and loved them because of the comfort factor, they are the neoprene foam rubber type, and I don`t like to wear gloves. Anyhow thanks again Jerry and I`ll update this thread if any thing else noteworthy happens.

Cheers,
           Speedy.

Speedy,

This does sound unusual to me as mine has 42mm grips standard & has always worked fine. I know we have different levers but I would have thought they were still the same shape. Maybe your clutch plates are simply worn out. You did tell me how much you enjoyed drag racing & that is very hard on your clutch.

Cheers
Aussie

[LRebel]

Here is an idea:  When I was a kid I crashed and bent my clutch lever.  I thought it was a really cool bend - kinda made a curl right out on the end.  This was great on a dirt bike, as it helped keep my hand from sliding toward the end of the lever.  I also noticed that this "custom modification" more effectively disengaged the clutch.

You might try to take the lever off and do your own "custom modification".  I would not try to bend it to the point that it curled back around, but you could probably easily bend it enough to fix your problem.....Just an idea

[Hoist!]

Here is an idea:  When I was a kid I crashed and bent my clutch lever.  I thought it was a really cool bend - kinda made a curl right out on the end.  This was great on a dirt bike, as it helped keep my hand from sliding toward the end of the lever.  I also noticed that this "custom modification" more effectively disengaged the clutch.

You might try to take the lever off and do your own "custom modification".  I would not try to bend it to the point that it curled back around, but you could probably easily bend it enough to fix your problem.....Just an idea

Be careful, they're cast levers and break easily!

Hoist!

[LRebel]

"Be careful, they're cast levers and break easily!
Hoist!"

Yep, I have broke my share.  Not sure how you would go about bending one on purpose.  Not sure if it would help to heat it slightly?

[Gecko]

I posted about difficulty hitting neutral on my SERK and the reply was that the clutch was adjustable in the primary as it is with a cable actuated system?  Can somebody with a shop manual verify which is correct?