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[brassspike]

Was in the mountains this weekend and after a couple of runs through the dragon back to back I felt like the clutch was dragging. Clunked kind of hard going into first. I checked the sight glass and couldn't tell anything from that so I removed the cover. Got a gusher there apparently due to the different bars on the bike. Anyway, the fluid looked real dirty. Anybody seen this on their bikes?

[grc]

Yup, and it's been that way since H-D started putting hydraulic clutches on the CVO's.  Part of the black gunk is the assembly lube that's in the M/C and the actuator.  It's there to protect the seals when the parts are initially assembled.  Some of it is also from the inner lining of the hydraulic line.  Has your fluid ever been changed?  If not, I'd suggest syphoning out the gunk in the M/C (don't let any air into the system though), then fill the M/C with fresh DOT 4 and begin the process of flushing the entire system.  You can do it manually, or you could use a pressure bleeder, or a hand vacuum pump at the bleeder valve.  Or you could just find a qualified tech who has the right tools and have him do it.

It's a good idea to change the fluid every two years, and use the highest boiling point DOT 4 fluid you can find.  High exhaust system temps can boil the fluid where the line comes hear the exhaust pipes and the trans side cover, and that will cause the incomplete release of the clutch you described.

Jerry

[mark]

The service manual calls for the fluid to be changed every two yrs.  I changed mine last week and yes it was tinted dark, with small black debris in the fluid.  The fluid in the resovoir looked clean, so I guess the dark fluid/debis was in the line.

Changing it out was no big deal, took about 10 minutes.  I jacked the bike to a level position and turned the bars to the right to level out the fluid in the resovoir.  Then I used a vacuum bleeder and drew the fluid out of the bleeder valve as I added new fluid to the resovoir.  Remember, brake fluid will permanently damage paint.

[brassspike]

I hadn't thought about the heat on the line. I was on her pretty hard so I'm sure the heat was rolling. I think I'll change it though. With these bars, I'll have to get creative to get the reservoir level though. I hope synthetic is not as bad on paint because I'll have to have that reservoir right over a lot of expensive paint!

[grc]

Even with standard bars I still drape the painted parts with plastic sheeting, just in case.  Better safe than sorry.

Jerry

[ultrarider123]

Just make sure to use the DOT 4 fluid and yes, it will damage the paint if you don't promptly remove it.  Had it happen in a truck of mine a few years ago.
Changed mine for the first time this week.  Before I started, took a large garbage bag and covered the tank and lowers on the clutch reservoir side of the bike.  Kept it in place with a magnet....worked like a charm.  I was still careful but the cover was added protection.
When I opened the res. cover, the fluid was a dirty charcoal color....looked real nasty.  If I had not caught some of the posts here on the site I would'a thunk sumtin was amiss.  I was expecting dirty fluid but not that bad.  Did as grc mentioned (and he was a big help with my first time chaning the clutch fluid) with first removing the old fluid in the reservoir, wiped it out as best possible, poured in fresh DOT 4 fluid and began the bleeding process.  Went well and you can tell a difference in the clutch action with the fresh fluid.  If you have ever bled hydraulic brakes you can do the clutch.  I was a bit nervous even though I had changed pads/fluid in brakes many times just because it's the clutch I guess. 

Good luck on your maintenance....

[Phantom309]

Do you guys know if the cosmetic chrome cover comes off ok with the exhaust still on the bike to get at the bleeder? I DO NOT want to take off my new Pro Pipe to do this when it's due. Looks like I won't be able to use a socket hex/ratchet to remove the two bolts, but an old school hex key should clear the pipes. Only thing that bugs me is I won't be able to use a torque wrench to re-install the cover, but I guess that isn't crucial since it is just a cover and doesn't really seal anything.

I take it the actual clutch release cover isn't chrome anymore on these new ones? Was this another bright idea of them to save a buck? My old Road Glide had a real chrome release cover (with cable clutch) so no need for the cosmetic cover. 

[Lever]

Why can't you use Dot 5 fluid

[grc]

Why can't you use Dot 5 fluid

DOT 5 entrains air and it's a real PITA to bleed all the air out .  Harley used DOT 5 in the brakes for a few years, then went back to DOT 4. 

Jerry

[sadunbar]

Do you guys know if the cosmetic chrome cover comes off ok with the exhaust still on the bike to get at the bleeder? I DO NOT want to take off my new Pro Pipe to do this when it's due. Looks like I won't be able to use a socket hex/ratchet to remove the two bolts, but an old school hex key should clear the pipes. Only thing that bugs me is I won't be able to use a torque wrench to re-install the cover, but I guess that isn't crucial since it is just a cover and doesn't really seal anything.

I take it the actual clutch release cover isn't chrome anymore on these new ones? Was this another bright idea of them to save a buck? My old Road Glide had a real chrome release cover (with cable clutch) so no need for the cosmetic cover.

I know one thing - you can't buy a chrome master cylinder replacement cover from the MOCO.  Nor can you buy a new master cylinder cover gasket.  If you need either one, you have to buy the entire master cylinder assembly.  Gotta love it!     The MOCO never misses an opportunity!   

[Lever]

Thanks Jerry for the Info

[cvofbme]

Nor can you buy a new master cylinder cover gasket.

 

46322-06    GASKET, COVER    4.56

[sadunbar]

46322-06    GASKET, COVER    4.56

The master cylinder cover gasket for my SEUC is 45483-05.  It's now listed as obsolete, but you can purchase NOS gaskets on EBAY, which is what I did earlier this year...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-45483-05-FRONT-MASTER-CYLINDER-GASKET-OBSOLETE-NOS-OEM-GENUINE-/380445444747?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589450ca8b&vxp=mtr

[sadunbar]

46322-06    GASKET, COVER    4.56

I see now - the gasket p/n you have listed is for a V-Rod.  The gasket p/n I listed is for a SE Ultra Classic.   

[Twolanerider]

The master cylinder cover gasket for my SEUC is 45483-05.  It's now listed as obsolete, but you can purchase NOS gaskets on EBAY, which is what I did earlier this year...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-45483-05-FRONT-MASTER-CYLINDER-GASKET-OBSOLETE-NOS-OEM-GENUINE-/380445444747?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589450ca8b&vxp=mtr

The master cylinder gaskets that Mother Harley, in her infinite wisdom, has seen fit to make obsolete separately are still readily available in the Drag book; just in case anyone might need them in the future.  They're cheap too.