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[wilton13]

I bought this bike fairly recent. It had 21k miles on it. Upkeep was immaculate and bike runs amazing until the last few times I went out.

Oil is HD brand synthetic he had changed by dealer just before he sold it so I didnt change it(my Redline is coming in on Monday so all fluids to be changed next week). Oil is a bit darker but feels/smells fine.

Bike has True Duals with Rhineharts, SE race Tuner/Tuned and a K&N high flow under stock cover.

Bike runs amazing, starts, rides, and goes with no noise or issues. When I ride on the freeway or on the long straight backroads headed to the mountains at about 75 to 80mph for 30 minutes or so then come to a stop sign or light, idle drops low, below 1k and it will stall. I can keep it going by keeping idle at 1k. At the next stop sign/light it may or may not be fine. If it stalls, it turns over 6 or 7 times before restarting.

I checked the oil temp on the dipstick and highest i have seen it is in the mid to high 230s except when I was tuck in traffic in90+ weather after a long hard ride and it was in the 240 range.

Before I crashed my last bike, I had an amazing mechanic I trusted but he got sick and closed up shop. Now i am not sure who I trust and wanted to test out a couple with oil changes and smaller things before taking in any real issues.

Any tips would be appreciated. I will clean the filter tomorrow though it looks ok. I am adding some seafoam to the tank as well just to ensure the injectors are clean and I am sure the new oil will help. Bike runs absolutely perfect, it doesnt have any decel pop, has lots of power, everything so not really sure whats up. I am suspecting heat though that doesnt seem too hot to me or possibly injectors.

[Joel]

You should try  cleaning the IAC motor / passage. Look at and clean the throttle plate with  carb cleaner and tooth brush. Both sides of it.
Be sure to have rags below the cleaning area to collect the extre liquids.
It may have extended crank time to re start do to the cleaner.

[Unbalanced]

Might check for a small intake leak as well as clean the iac.   Warm up fuel might be enough to get you started then when it comes down might not be enough.


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[Ironhorse]

Wilton,

I see your profile has the California flag. Where in CA are you? There's a shop in the Bay Area a lot of us go to.

Mark

[Trapperdog]

Not sure on HD's, but most other bikes that exhibit stalling at idle after sustained speeds is a sign of a failing TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Doesn't usually throw a code and is non repairable. Easy replacement though.

[wilton13]

I'm in East contra Costa County in Oakley. I used to use American Motorcycle repair. Amazing people but when the mechanic got sick they couldn't find a new one and closed. One of a kind shop and great mechanic. Fully trusted them and need a new shop that I feel the same.  Gonna try Diablo V-Twin but they are a little ways away so it's hard to drop off/pickup. Open to suggestions on shops.

Thanks for the info. It really felt like it was overheating but the temps on the dipstick say otherwise so my next thought was the fuel/air hence cleaning the filter and running seafoam through it. I didn't even think about a leak since it typically runs so good and didn't consider the IAC but will clean that up tomorrow night as well. Have a long days run on Saturday up and around Lake Tahoe area so will be in cooler temps most of the day but will also be out in the middle of nowhere and don't want to hold anyone up. I'll definitely fee better when I change all the fluids too and know what I have in it.

Thanks again for the tips. Will let you know how it all goes.

[Trapperdog]

Jim, HD-Dude on this forum, owner at Metal Dragon in Hayward is who we use around here.
If the stalling occurs only after sustained speeds I'm betting on the TPS. If it happens other times as well, check what others have mentioned.

[Ironhorse]

Oakley, that's not too far from Metal Dragon in Hayward. Some folks like JCZ and ErnieZap come from San Diego to get work done on their bikes from him. I just had my whole engine rebuilt by him and love it.

[wilton13]

Cool thanks for the info. I'll check him out. That's a bit of a ways to go but worth it for someone that is good for bigger work. Would have to take off work to get it in/out that far away though so would only do it likely for engine work or big jobs.

I'll also check each of the items listed. So far it's only been after sustained speeds. I'll look at my manual and see if it's a replacement I can do. Shouldn't be too expensive anyway to just replace just in case as well as do the other items mentioned.

Thanks again!

[grc]

27659-06     Throttle Position Sensor Kit     $37.23 MSRP


Jerry

[wilton13]

Nice thanks. May just pick one up and replace for good measure. Figured it would be under $50

[Twolanerider]

Nice thanks. May just pick one up and replace for good measure. Figured it would be under $50

I've got two  complete 06 throttle bodies that came off good running bikes.  $60 shipped and you'll have a complete spare set of everything including injectors.  Plus you'll have a casting core to send off if you ever want a bigger TB.

[wilton13]

Will that work on a 110" 07?

[JCZ]

Cool thanks for the info. I'll check him out. That's a bit of a ways to go but worth it for someone that is good for bigger work. Would have to take off work to get it in/out that far away though so would only do it likely for engine work or big jobs.

I'll also check each of the items listed. So far it's only been after sustained speeds. I'll look at my manual and see if it's a replacement I can do. Shouldn't be too expensive anyway to just replace just in case as well as do the other items mentioned.

Thanks again!

Not far at all for you.  People would ask me "why do you all the way to Hayward from Sacramento, pass five dealerships and a number of independent shops....why go so far?"   Simple.....because I got damn tired of taking my back over and over for the same problem.....take it to Jim and take it once and know it's going to be done right and know that he's not going to try to bullchit me and try to sell me something that I don't need.  Just the opposite....in the begining I'd get a quote from a dealership or another independent shop then go to Jim and he'd tell me "you don't need all that$$$$$....all you need is $$".

Now that I've transferred to San Diego, I still take my bike 500 miles, one way....to get Jim to do it.  I'm not the only one.....there are others here in So Cal that take their bike up to Jim.  Metal Dragon in Hayward.....you can't go wrong.  A one stop shop. 

[sadunbar]

Will that work on a 110" 07?

Yes...  That's a great buy Twolane offered you....

(Had the same issue on my 2007 SEUC a couple years ago.  Replaced the IAC and TPS and was good to go...)

[wilton13]

I've got two  complete 06 throttle bodies that came off good running bikes.  $60 shipped and you'll have a complete spare set of everything including injectors.  Plus you'll have a casting core to send off if you ever want a bigger TB.

If it will fit my 07 110" I'll take it. Let me know how to pay.

[Twolanerider]

If it will fit my 07 110" I'll take it. Let me know how to pay.

2006 and 2007 are the same.  Will send you a PM.  Take a look ^ up there on top.

[wilton13]

Does it require adjusting after installed? If so I assume it's adjusted via the tuner?

[Twolanerider]

Does it require adjusting after installed? If so I assume it's adjusted via the tuner?

Throttle position sensor has never been moved.  Should be able to just bolt it on.

[wilton13]

Thanks!

[electraglideclyde]

 I replaced mine recently, 10 minute job. 

[wilton13]

I replaced mine recently, 10 minute job.

How did you get that inner screw out? I had a mini ratchet which didnt work so I bought a micro ratchet which also wont work Just cant seem to get anything more than the hex bit in there and absolutely no room after that. Once the screw starts coming out I wouldnt even be able to back it out a turn or so if I could even get it started. Do i have to pull the throttle body off?

[wilton13]

Ok. I got it out. Wish I had a person to video it so I could post how. Couldn't find any. I ended up using a small torn bit that fits into the micro driver. Places it in the screw with needle nose and then a small flat screwdriver putting pressure on the back to hold it in. Used a small wrench to turn it a little at a time. Breaking it loose was the hard part. Once loose it was easy. Took a bit but easy.

I test rode it about 20 miles. Seems to run perfect so far. Though it ran perfect before until those long fast rides then stopping so we will see this weekend.

Thanks again for all the help and thanks for the full throttle body. That may come in handy in the future. Never hurts to have some spare parts.

[wilton13]

Looks like it is still happening. Less often but still there. I had a mechanic check it out and he couldn't find any issues and also couldn't replicate the issue because it is so sporadic! Annoying to pull up to a light and it stall.

Open to any additional suggestions. He says he checked fuel lines for any leaks, sucking air, etc.

[Unbalanced]

If you have a data log tuner you could do that and see what is happening.   intake leak, exhaust leak, TPMS sensor, IAC needing to be cleaned.   Any decell popping happening?

Check injectors for voltage. 

[wilton13]

I haven’t been able to find a leaks yet. No decel pop runs absolutely perfect. When it first starts it was after long steady rides. Now it’s random just sometimes stalls at idle when pulling up to a stop. Starts right back up. I discovered when I test before a stop, if it stalls and I restart it’s fine after that as long as I turn the switch(kill switch) off and back on. Makes me think either fuel filter getting stuff sucked up and blocking off just enough or something like internal tank lines.

[Unbalanced]

 It can also be the IAC, beyond fuel delivery.   What tuner are you using?   IAC isn't cheap, but not crazy either.

[wilton13]

Guy gave me a SE Race Tuner with it but when my mechanic hooked it up he said he thinks it may not be married to my bike. Guy sold 2 Harley’s. Have a feeling he mixed up the tuners

I bought a whole throttle body off someone here and it has injectors and IAC all so I can swap whatever is needed.

The mechanic is a new guy I’m using. I may take it to another one to do some testing as beyond the leaks it’s a bit over my head.

[Unbalanced]

Also check your TPS to be sure it's tight.   Believe it is 1/4" screw head suggest using long 1/4 socket and wrench.   Should only need to take off air cleaner cover


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[Scanbike]

I had a same problem with my 2013 CVO road king, and it was the one of the O2 sensor. It threw a code as well.

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[wilton13]

No 02 sensors on mine. Haven’t figured it out still. I learned I can toggle the kill switch when riding if I clutch and it stalls before coming toastip and it seems to fix the issue.  It’s good for a long ride or possibly u til I restart.

[Scanbike]

No 02 sensors on mine. Haven’t figured it out still. I learned I can toggle the kill switch when riding if I clutch and it stalls before coming toastip and it seems to fix the issue.  It’s good for a long ride or possibly u til I restart.

The parts catalog says the 2007 FLHTCUSE2 have 2 pcs. O2 Sensors...



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[Scanbike]

The parts catalog says the 2007 FLHTCUSE2 have 2 pcs. O2 Sensors...



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Read the codes and clear them. See if they come back.


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[wilton13]

After market exhaust so I guess that’s why no o2. Also no codes from it which is what’s stumping me.

[Scanbike]

After market exhaust so I guess that’s why no o2. Also no codes from it which is what’s stumping me.

If it's no O2 sensors with no code throw you have to have a aftermarket tuner? Then you probably have to dyno tune your bike...i have very bad experienced with V&H fuel pack,tuners i generally with preprogrammed map never more! Only dyno tune for my bikes!

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[wilton13]

Correct. It has a SE race tuner and it is dyno tuned. Unless something happened to the tune. It was fine and then after awhile it started to do that. Due to how it acts I was. Thinking a pinhole in the tank line or even a slightly clogged filter. Since toggling the kill switch seems to fix it it makes me think the pump shutting off relieving the pressure may be the reason it’s fine after that

[Scanbike]

Correct. It has a SE race tuner and it is dyno tuned. Unless something happened to the tune. It was fine and then after awhile it started to do that. Due to how it acts I was. Thinking a pinhole in the tank line or even a slightly clogged filter. Since toggling the kill switch seems to fix it it makes me think the pump shutting off relieving the pressure may be the reason it’s fine after that

I my be i read something about cable to fuel injection is a weak point....rubbing fueltank or something..

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[wilton13]

I’ll take a look at that. Thanks

[Scanbike]

I am no expert but, I think your tune have to have the O2 sensor i place to compensate fuel air mix. Or else it will be to rich on idle and it stalled.. And to lean at higher rpm. Just my sentence..

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[longlast]

I had the same issue just a short while ago stalling out coming to a stop. I was all set to take it to the HD dealer but I got it sorted out.

I used a spray can of break cleaner I put a direction tube on the nozzle and gave the IAC and inner intake body a good cleaning,... I put a cloth down in the intake to catch any fibres that got flushed out, which did, I also changed the plugs and wires. I was also getting running rich codes. Not getting them anymore popping up.
I've had no problems since. Idle sits at 900 rpm
Don't know if it will help in your case .
Btw,..when you first fire it up do you notice if the motor is hunting,....idle going up and down,... mine was doing that as well. It isn't doing that anymore either.

[wilton13]

I had the same issue just a short while ago stalling out coming to a stop. I was all set to take it to the HD dealer but I got it sorted out.

I used a spray can of break cleaner I put a direction tube on the nozzle and gave the IAC and inner intake body a good cleaning,... I put a cloth down in the intake to catch any fibres that got flushed out, which did, I also changed the plugs and wires. I was also getting running rich codes. Not getting them anymore popping up.
I've had no problems since. Idle sits at 900 rpm
Don't know if it will help in your case .
Btw,..when you first fire it up do you notice if the motor is hunting,....idle going up and down,... mine was doing that as well. It isn't doing that anymore either.

Bike runs perfect. Idles perfect. No jumping or high/low idle. I cleaned out the IAC as well. May pull it off and clean it again when I remove the tank just to ensure I get it really good and clean.

Bike usually does this either within 5 or 10 minutes of start or after a long straight ride steady throttle. Once I toggle it’s generally good rest of the ride.

Appreciate any and all tips as I will try it all until I figure it out. Now that rainy season is here I’ll have a bit more time to work on her since weekends will be quieter soon. I ride it commuting daily so limits my time weekdays to work on it.

[longlast]

Bike runs perfect. Idles perfect. No jumping or high/low idle. I cleaned out the IAC as well. May pull it off and clean it again when I remove the tank just to ensure I get it really good and clean.

Bike usually does this either within 5 or 10 minutes of start or after a long straight ride steady throttle. Once I toggle it’s generally good rest of the ride.

Appreciate any and all tips as I will try it all until I figure it out. Now that rainy season is here I’ll have a bit more time to work on her since weekends will be quieter soon. I ride it commuting daily so limits my time weekdays to work on it.

Update on how it works out for you and what you find on the fix.

[wilton13]

Absolutely I will update the thread.  I had a bike before that did it also and sold it before figuring it out so I really want to know. Not sure yet when I’ll have time to dig in but maybe over the weekend coming up. Though it may be awhile before I figure it all out.