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Conical Springs.   Haven't gotten the final numbers yet for pressures.

You probably know Conical springs vary the distance between each coil from bottom to top, so coil bind potential must be checked at the top coils of the spring. 

And the advantage of conical springs over double or triple wound springs or beehive springs is the natural frequency wave generated by the conical spring.  Because each coil has it's own frequency, the natural wave is dampened.  Then by varying the spacing between the coils, the natural wave is further dampened.  Increased longevity and increased performance is the result.  The technology of the conical spring is old - we first tried them back in the 1970's (in high performance V-8 motors).   The R&D folks we worked with at Cam Dynamic's knew that a pure conical, spring was beneficial, but the available materials and machining techniques could not produce the idea. The idea never got past the dyno.  Today, high-quality spring wire and CNC coil winding machines make the conical spring possible.  You're the first I know of in our little world here to install them in a set of MOCO heads.  I'm curious as to how they will work out.  I'll bet the top end noise is reduced - for one...

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Scott, I need to correct the post.  The  other motor build  is getting conicals this one is getting AV&V inner/outer springs.   The heads  will be set to 165-168 and 420 on the nose.  Should be fully assembled tomorrow for installation.

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Drago's blower pistons cut to a flat top with 3 mm rings



Port work - custom Ferrara valves that John had made

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Piston in ready for the head





With the spring change it allowed John to use the Viton seals

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Torquing down the heads using cosmetic gaskets.







Installing the rings on the rear piston

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The other port, gotta love those new base gaskets





Rear head going on

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Throttle body and bottom rocker boxes are on.   Lifters are sitting in oil and have been soaking a couple of days.   Just need to install the lifters, set the pushrods and finish installing the cradles and button her up and put the bullet back in the frame.

[longlast]

What would be the part number on those gaskets and who supply's them?
It's going to be a winter job for me mine are seeping between the pots. There not bad but there is seepage.

Your doing a top job,.   

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What would be the part number on those gaskets and who supply's them?
It's going to be a winter job for me mine are seeping between the pots. There not bad but there is seepage.

Your doing a top job,.   

Thanks Longlast,

I can't share any details on the gaskets at this time.   Hopefully soon.

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Setting the pushrods

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Pre- Lube on the pushrods, and valves



A little locktite

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Since there has been a bunch of requests on the gasket & color - here ya go !



Pushrods are set, tubes are on, cam cover is drying from the safety clean.

Motor turns over nicely - some finishing touches and back in the frame we go.

[longlast]

Since there has been a bunch of requests on the gasket & color - here ya go !



Pushrods are set, tubes are on, cam cover is drying from the safety clean.

Motor turns over nicely - some finishing touches and back in the frame we go.

Haha!  That's good mate I used the same thing (copper gasket sealer) on my little top end and cam job.
I didn't use the spray tho. I did it the old school way, apply a little sealer then do the finger dabbing technic to get the thin even layer of sealant on the gasket so it doesn't push a over load of sealer on the outer side and inner side when the two parts are put together.
Been using copper gasket sealer and copper grease for for a long time. Copper grease can also be used on gaskets have done that before.

 

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Motor is in -  time to button it up.

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Ready to put the seal in.