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[TRS300]

Hello All,  I've been working on another project for my 2015 Street Glide.  I do like to ride but I enjoy working on my bikes too..  Here's a list of mods I've done...

1. Gas Tank Disk
2. Throttle clearance
3. Catalyst & Mufflers
4. Gauge Color Change + Medallion
5. Rear Shocks + Lift Kit
6. Kickstand Mod
7. Stabilizers Front & Rear
8. Rotated Running Lights
9. Microcontroller (CAN Bus)
   a. Volume Control (Auto Adjust Ramp)
   b. Head/Running Light Modulation
   c. Cooling Fan Control
   d. Engine Temp Display
   d. Oil Temp Display
   
This post is related to project 9.

I'll not bore with details but will post some pictures for you to check out...

Tim
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[TRS300]

Some pics of the hardware...

[TRS300]

Bigger view of the night display panel on my phone.  All info is streaming via Bluetooth.  BTW: I plan to get a used phone with a 4 inch display that will be dedicated for this... My 5 inch phone is too big.

[Enigmatic]

How about you bore me a little..... I'm LOST!!! LOL

[TRS300]

How about you bore me a little..... I'm LOST!!! LOL

OK… The boring stuff.  The newer bikes now have CAN Bus data (Controller Area Network) which has all sorts of information being sent over the bus (twisted pair of wires) between different CAN modules (ECM, Handlebar modules, etc…)  Information can be read from the bus and in some cases messages can be transmitted into the bus.

The microcontroller that is in my glove box can read and transmit messages from the CAN bus, and it also has input from other external passive components (a light sensor on my mirror, and soon the oil temp sensor I’m installing in my oil pan)

Information from the CAN bus & external sensors is collected by the microcontroller, decoded, and transmitted to my cell phone via Bluetooth serial communication where it is displayed. The Bluetooth data communication is two-way serial stream, so I can adjust settings on the microcontroller from my phone.

This project has two custom slave modules also; One is used to modulate brightness of the headlights and the other will turn on the cooling fans of the twin cooling system.

Modulation: Power supply to the headlight and running lights can be adjusted between 0% & 100% brightness using PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). The controller modulates the lead lights / running lights if the following conditions are true…

•   The MOD feature is enabled on the settings panel
•   Daylight brightness is > 80% "LT Pct On" Setting (light sensor on mirror)
•   Headlight is on high beam (read from CAN Bus)

Cooling Fans: The second slave module is tapped into the cooling fans on the twin cooling system.  The fans are normally turned on by the ECM (and still are) but I think the OEM setting is too high. The microcontroller reads cylinder head temperature and will turn the fans on based on a setpoint.  I set it ~ 190-195.  The fans will be turned on if the flowing is true…

•   The FAN feature is enabled on the settings panel
•   Cylinder Head Temp > “Setpoint” (Head Temp read from CAN Bus)
•   MPH is < 40 “MPH Off” Setting (MPH read from CAN Bus) 

*at speed greater than 40 MPH the controller will not operate the fans.

Volume Control:  Boom Audio has a volume increase setting. It’s a blended setting. It controls how loud the unit will get overall + how much the volume will increase when you speed up from a stop. The overall loudness effects the loudness output at all levels on each of the 17-steps in the volume scale. I run my HD increase setting at Max (I think 4 or 6) cannot remember.  And when I take off from a stop the HD increase does ramp up the volume. But the HD effect diminishes sharply when you go faster than 35 MPH.  When I get above 40 mph I’m usually fiddling with my volume all the time especially if speeding and slowing a lot between 40 & 80 mph (mountain/canyon riding).  The Volume control of the microcontroller will increase and decrease the volume to follow a target. If the rider touches the volume rocker the controller can sense this and it pauses a moment, and then resets the target to the volume level the rider just adjusted it too.  If the rider does not touch the volume rocker the volume program will adjust the volume to follow a target.  The target is updated based on current speed and the ramp settings.  The controller will adjust volume based on the following…

•   The VOL feature is enabled on the settings panel
•   The rider is not adjusting the volume (Vol Rocker action read from CAN Bus)
•   VOL Actual is not muted or at level 0 (both read from CAN Bus)
•   VOL Actual < 17 “Max” (read from CAN Bus)
•   MPH is between “Ramp Start” & “Ramp End” Settings (MPH read from CAN Bus)

Volume “GAIN” setting is how many steps the target will be increased / decreased automatically between “Ramp Start” (0%) & “Ramp End” (100%).  So for example:  If Ramp start setting is 40 MPH and Ramp End setting is 80MPH and Gain setting is 6, the program will have turned the volume up by 3 steps from between 40 mph and 60 mph (50% of gain @ 50% of Ramp span).  If we slow back down from 60 to 40 the controller will decrease volume by 3 steps. Speed back up to 80 mph the controller will increase volume by 6 steps.  If rider touches the volume rocker, the controller adjusts the target to the current volume setting,  and then will resume adjusting the volume based on the speed and ramp settings.

The Volume control is the only control currently transmitting commands into the bus adjusting the volume of the boom audio system.

Next effort is to get the Oil temp sensor values (temp vs resistance) mapped into a table so that I can calculate the resistance of the sensor (read as a sense voltage level) and convert that to a temperature value. That’s what I get for buying a cheap sensor with no datasheet.

The attached pictures were taken at different times during development. That is why values and layout are different between them…

[TRS300]

settings

[TRS300]

Older version of Day View display

[Enigmatic]

Aaaaaah...Now I get it. Pretty cool. very interesting. do you think you'll be able to turn on/off ETMS system as well? I usually have mine off, just curious.

[bigchuck]

Wow. I'm pretty sure that only leaves one question yet to be answered, what is your kickstand mod? Seriously, while I personally probably  understood <10% of what you said, I do find it interesting. It seems as though in the right hands(or brain) the the only limitation of the CanBus system is the imagination. Thank for sharing.

[TRS300]

Aaaaaah...Now I get it. Pretty cool. very interesting. do you think you'll be able to turn on/off ETMS system as well? I usually have mine off, just curious.

I run with mine turned off all the time.  So no need to try and change it for me...

[FLSTFI Dave]

Very interesting what you have set up.  Love all the information you can see.  Can bus is neat stuff.  I do some with it at work.  All our drives use pulse width modulation.

[TRS300]

Wow. I'm pretty sure that only leaves one question yet to be answered, what is your kickstand mod? Seriously,...... Thank for sharing.

You're welcome. I know you were joking about the kickstand, but I changed the stance of the bike a lot.  Lowered the nose a bit and raised the rear a lot.  The result is the bike will turn just by thinking about it.  The front steering is much lighter now also. I no longer get close to dragging a floorboard either.  Some people like to lower the bikes, I'm not one of them.  These bikes sit too low IMO. Low center of gravity make everything feel heavy and sluggish.  I know it's a big bike, but once it's moving it handles better and feels lighter with the rear a little higher and the nose down a bit.  Just my preference.  Only downside is it will want to fall over easier when sitting still (same reason why it turns so well). You get used to it pretty quickly however, it's not that big a deal.

BTW: The lift blocks were made from modified lowering blocks and mounted on the opposite side.  The reason you need them is that the shock would hit the muffler and not allow raising the rear as far.  Even with this setup I had to make a bigger dent in the muffler to make room for the Axel nut.

These changes resulted in the bike leaning over to much on the kickstand.  So I added a pad.  I also hated the way the kickstand leaned backwards when parked... Always made me cringe to see that.  So I grinded the "Key" (not sure what to call it) so that the kick stand rests more forward. Added a fat head screw to the front side to make up clearance.  Someone should make a replacement key that allows the stand to rotate forward further...

[Puzzled]

I now found "The Guy" I'm going to ask all of my Canbus questions.......