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[Yellow09SERG]

Thanks, correct. I read over the instructions in the box with the cams. All the aftermarket cams probably say that. To do it properly the correct measurements should be taken. Or use an adjustable for trial fit to measure and order fixed length. I've done this before myself and used adjustable PRs.

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Everyone has their preference, but will say I am in the 12,000 mile range with the 24d cams and SE adjustables with no issues. Now I will not argue that one piece are probably a lot more ridged, but so far no issues with adjustables over the period of several motors.

[J.D.]

Yep on auto engines an adjustable is often used to measure for custom length pushrods.

I prefer the adjustables on the Harleys regardless as they have never failed me and literally every Twin Cam engine is going to need lifters again sooner or later.

[johnsachs]

To remove any guess work, as I stock 24D cams, I just checked a set.
The base circle is: 1.226"
John
If you can't find the base circle measurement of the SE255 cams, let me know, and I'll check a set later. I have several sets for sale.

[Yellow09SERG]

To remove any guess work, as I stock 24D cams, I just checked a set.
The base circle is: 1.226"
John
If you can't find the base circle measurement of the SE255 cams, let me know, and I'll check a set later. I have several sets for sale.

Thank you John. I'll write that down with the cam card

[johnsachs]

To remove any guess work, as I stock 24D cams, I just checked a set.
The base circle is: 1.226"
John
If you can't find the base circle measurement of the SE255 cams, let me know, and I'll check a set later. I have several sets for sale.

Se255 cams. Base circle is: 1.300" 
If it were me, I'd use adjustable p/rods.
John

[Shawrco]

Se255 cams. Base circle is: 1.300" 
If it were me, I'd use adjustable p/rods.
John

Thanks John. I'm going to present this info to the Indy. Do you happen to have any good TTS maps for the 24D cams and Fullsac DX pipes w/1.75 baffles? Everything else is stock.

[longlast]

Your mechanic is right you could use your stock p/r. As the se255 cam is 1.300" and the 24d is 1.226" Base circle the lifters can make up the difference. This would mean the lifter plunger would be operating higher than center that is where they are designed to preform to their highest efficiency.
As you're going for more torque it may affect the overall performance of the lifters. One thing you know for sure by using the stock p/r the lifter plunger will not be in its designed center setting. By using adjustable they will be set at where thier designed to preform.
Go for the adjustables then you'll know everything is in its rightful place.

[J.D.]

Assuming the stock pushrods on the stock camshafts sits at nearly exactly the midpoint of the lifter plunger travel (1/2 of 0.210" = 0.105") it might just work.

1.300"-1.226"=0.074" total difference in base circles
1/2 of 0.074"=0.037" half of total difference (or difference in radius of base circles)

Lifter plunger (theoretical) depth would then be 0.105"-0.037"=0.068" preload (about 1/16")

Eeegh, I don't know.

[Shawrco]

Assuming the stock pushrods on the stock camshafts sits at nearly exactly the midpoint of the lifter plunger travel (1/2 of 0.210" = 0.105") it might just work.

1.300"-1.226"=0.074" total difference in base circles
1/2 of 0.074"=0.037" half of total difference (or difference in radius of base circles)

Lifter plunger (theoretical) depth would then be 0.105"-0.037"=0.068" preload (about 1/16")

Eeegh, I don't know.

Thanks for all the discussion. Just to let everyone know, we're going to use the adjustable pushrods I had already purchased. All we need to get is the two piece tubes.

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[johnsachs]

Thanks for all the discussion. Just to let everyone know, we're going to use the adjustable pushrods I had already purchased. All we need to get is the two piece tubes.

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If your tech removed the rocker box covers and the rocker arm saddle, you really don't need to by new p/rod tubes.
1- Just have him put the adjustables in,
2-  put the rocker arm saddle on,
3-  lengthen the p/rod to the start of adjustment point,
4- mark them,
5- remove the saddle and p/rods and set to the manufacturer's spec.(turns),
6- lock them up,
7-  re-install everything, p/rods and tubes, rocker saddle and rocker box covers like they were stock non- adjustables with the tubes, etc. 
John

[Shawrco]

If your tech removed the rocker box covers and the rocker arm saddle, you really don't need to by new p/rod tubes.
Just have him put the adjustables in, put the rocker arm saddle on, lengthen the p/rod to the start of adjustment point, mark them, remove and set to the manufacturer's spec.(turns), lock them up, re-install like they were stock non- adjustables with the tubes, etc. 
John

Thanks, he mentioned that technique as well. Not sure which way he's going with it. I'll be talking to him tomorrow cause if he's taking the rocker box tops off I need to get the rocker lockers out to him. Appreciate all the assistance.

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