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[Twolanerider]

........."and what did he do?"........concerning the oil blow by problem     spyder

Spyder, I remember the video of Henry's engine running.  Nothing to be seen there as no breather assemblies of any kind were yet installed.  So unless it was textually described elsewhere the "it" hasn't actually been explained yet.  Still a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma, hidden by a rocker box.

[spydglide]

Spyder, I remember the video of Henry's engine running.  Nothing to be seen there as no breather assemblies of any kind were yet installed.  So unless it was textually described elsewhere the "it" hasn't actually been explained yet.  Still a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma, hidden by a rocker box.

well, if there is a 'solution' that we could find or has already be identified, then I sure would like to know of it.  I think part of my oil blowing out the breather problem is my insistance on adding oil to keep it 'full'.......maybe?  Might try changing the puke tube to a collection filter......but as Hoist said.....that's just relocating the 'oil-mess'.  har!  spyder

[Twolanerider]

well, if there is a 'solution' that we could find or has already be identified, then I sure would like to know of it.  I think part of my oil blowing out the breather problem is my insistance on adding oil to keep it 'full'.......maybe?  Might try changing the puke tube to a collection filter......but as Hoist said.....that's just relocating the 'oil-mess'.  har!  spyder

"Full" is certainly a relative term on these things Spyder.  Before the top end was redone on mine last winter in its original trim it would push out oil until it got to 1/2 quart low when hot.  Then it would stay there and use another 1/2 quart in about 4000 miles.  Between that point and 5000 whenever it was convenient I'd change it, refill with Amsoil to or Mobil 1 to a 1/2 quart low and then repeat the process.

Since the top end was redone, however, the new Zippers build (and I use the term lightly) pukes out oil; period.  Their head design is very very good for external engine oil lubrication patterns and methods.  I'm sure there's a patent in there somewhere for "engine supported external rust elimination system."  Personally I'm just proud to have been allowed to be part of the research.

[spydglide]

  Personally I'm just proud to have been allowed to be part of the research.

I guess 'proud' could be one way to describe your feelings.   har!  spyder

[REGGAB]

Spyder, I remember the video of Henry's engine running.  Nothing to be seen there as no breather assemblies of any kind were yet installed.  So unless it was textually described elsewhere the "it" hasn't actually been explained yet.  Still a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma, hidden by a rocker box.

If I've done this right, you can see the video here:  http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l149/claydbal/henry%20build/?action=view&current=fix.flv  There is a 90 degree elbow at the top rear of the cam support plate that vents the crankcase.  The hose runs from the elbow between the frame and the oil bag venting to atmosphere.

[SneakyPete]

In my never ending search to find new and better solutions to known problems, I decided to try Kuryakyn's "bluegrass" crankcase vent system (part #9932).  While the arrangement I posted previously works well and doesn't look too bad, I wanted to try to eliminate the hoses altogether while still not having something that needs to be maintained (cleaning breather filters, emptying canisters, etc.).  I can now say the Kuryakyn product meets my expectations.  The key with this product is the banjo fittings point upward so you can run 5/16 fuel hose from each to a tee connection into a single 5/16 line running down the backbone under the gas tank which then runs parallel to the gas tank overflow hose and exits just forward of the rear swingarm.  Totally invisible and maintainance free.  In fact this arrangement acts more like a mini-expansion tank for the oil as most of the mist created drains back into the engine where it belongs.  Should be compatible with most AC assemblies, the banjo fittings are universal thickness.  I used these fittings with the Zipper's breather bolts used with their AC assembly, works fine

[SneakyPete]

Another shot of the right side...Also note that there is just enough room under the tank for the 5/16 line and it must run down the right side.

[sanjoseduke]

Very good tips in this post. WE do all of the mods to the engines when they are for misting. One thing I do not like is the S&S reed valves. I have several here that i would be happy to send to some one if they want to try them. But what we have found is they will sump the engine due to the reed being too stiff. We have pulled them from the 124 crate engines and have sen 5-6 hp as a increase and puking is gone. But then a 124 S&S is a different animal then a normal t/c with there pump and cam plate, cam cover.

Wow these are some great articles on misting. One question is why do only a small number of bikes have this problem?
I had a major venting problem on my 2006 CUSE ( Freedom gear drive cams) in 2006 on a fast, hot (110 plus degree temp)  several day ride through death valley and the Arizona desert. The HD shop in Colorado springs fixed it by installing the S&S reed valve. I have put on over 20k miles since with zero venting problems. Should I be worried about sumping (whatever that is) now ?

[rednectum]

sorry for just now getting back to this thread. my idea on henrys bike was to allow gravity to seperate oil from air. by running the vent hose upward , the oil will not pump out but venting will still occur, the oil is allowed to drain back into cam chest where scavenge pump can pick it up and return to tank.

since that time, and after lengthy talks with r and r, it was decided that the cam plate vent should be plugged on baggers! ahhhh the fun of testing new products!

[Twolanerider]

I've had this problem on the red bike.  Tried a few things that all changed it a little; some better, some worse. 

Those Kuryakyn vents were helpful just because of the direction they vented.  The Doherty MystFree product helped, but not a lot.  Made sure o-rings under the rockers were good, everything else that's at least moderatly easy to service and check.  Finally just routed up down and around to let gravity do its best and let the rest mark a spot as need be.  It's not all over the bike.  It's not making any real mess.  So I can live with it.

Over the winter the top will be back off though.  Might consider another alternative then while it's all in hand.  Does anyone have any experience with the TP "Pro Vent" rocker boxes.  There's an ex Big Dog dealer that is selling some at a surprisingly reasonable price.  Would be willing to give them a shot if they're as helpful for this problem as their advertising makes them out to be.

[rednectum]

twolane, another little trick is to drill the small drains that are below the breathers. look under the breather body and you can see 2 teeny holes through the rocker support, drill about 2 number sizes larger, maybe a little more, theory is this will allow the oil to drain away from the gauze a little quicker, allowing more air/less oil to go through the umbrllas.

[Twolanerider]

twolane, another little trick is to drill the small drains that are below the breathers. look under the breather body and you can see 2 teeny holes through the rocker support, drill about 2 number sizes larger, maybe a little more, theory is this will allow the oil to drain away from the gauze a little quicker, allowing more air/less oil to go through the umbrllas.

Already did that one also.  Don't remember for sure the number size bit used but remember thinking it was gaining .008-.010 over what the hole was to begin with.