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[Mr. Wizard]

Nice chip taken out of the TS paint right above the beer can on the right side. Actually what ever hit the SG made two chips right next to each other. The chips are down to the primer.

I found out quickly that the TS paint is hard but thin and will chip easily. Even my thumb nail made one of the rock chips larger simply by rubbing across it to remove a high spot. Of course the impact may have loosened it and I was the catalyst that simply removed the loosened chip.

I did buy the touch paint kit a few weeks ago. Part # 94735 (about 40 bucks). There are two bottles. 1/2 oz of Scarlet Red Basecoat and 1/2 oz of Gold Pearl Topcoat. I also have some 3000 wet paper, rubbing and polishing compound.

I've never been that great at touch up. Any hints or suggestions that will make this blend better? All comments are welcome.

A recap of my adventures starts with post 78 on page 6, enjoy!

[porthole]

Just leave it.
Touching just may make it stand out more.

[8 U UP]

You need 3-M Scotchgard paint protection film. I had the following areas done on my 09' cvo serg.
Front fender, front of fairing, top of lids of bags, and front lower part of bags. 380.00 installed.
Google it and find a dealer near you. My installer had the software for the cutouts. I think its a must for these paint jobs.

[LarryB]

as far as doing the touch up, the paint in those kits is just that, paint. you'll never get it to go away. make sure you shake the paint real well, clean the area with some isopropyl alchohol, let dry. the name touch up is what it is, get a little paint on the tip and start dapping , or touching the spot till color is even. better to build a couple layers than 1 big one. add the second color, but this you need to do in one coat. when it is dry, feel it for high spots, if it feels good, use some clear nail polish to seal it. make sure you feather it in. not perfect way to do it, but if you take your time, no one will know.
except all of us of course

[Mr. Wizard]

Thanks for the replies.

Sorry but I can't let the paint chip go. It's just not in me to do so and the 3M stuff is grand. I would like to put it on the fenders of my Trike and will look at putting on the Glide but for now there is this aggravating set of chips.

I've done somewhat Larry has suggested and have started. Using a toothpick I applied the first coat and I did the second coat last night. Was very careful to simply fill the chip holes. As it dries the paint tends to sink in the center anyway. Next I will wet an emery board and lightly rub the paint high spots around the chips and clean with an alcohol swab again.

My thoughts are to get the base coat in first then mix the base coat and the topcoat for the final application. I will test this first on a piece of metal to see how it blends and dries. If it separates then I will do one at a time. If this works I will top off with clearcoat to blend in the surrounding areas and polish out.

More later. Sorry I can't take pictures of this as I go along, the camera just won't pick up this type of close up shot.

Thanks again for your replies. If you see I am doing something wrong please chime in.

[TIF2]

I found out quickly that the TS paint is hard but thin and will chip easily. Even my thumb nail made one of the rock chips larger simply by rubbing across it to remove a high spot. Of course the impact may have loosened it and I was the catalyst that simply removed the loosened chip.

Dunno but that sounds like a bad paint job to me ... doesn't sound like the paint bonded to the primer properly.  

Good luck with the patch job!

[Boatman]

Reksul-

Sounds like you know what you are doing.  The toothpick can work well on some surfaces better than others.  Never been brave enough to do the wetsanding.  Already bought the touch up paint for the citrus also-will need it sooner or later.
I know the 05 cherries had really soft paint and chipped easily.  Hope ours is better in that respect.

[LarryB]

Dunno but that sounds like a bad paint job to me ... doesn't sound like the paint bonded to the primer properly.  

Good luck with the patch job!

get used to it, another harleyism

[Mr. Wizard]

Follow up with my "get used to it"...  HA!   

I took a small drop of both bottles last night and mixed them on a piece of unfinished metal. Good news, no separation in the two and no puddling. Looks like this may be the next application.

However, I did take a bright light and shine it at different angles on the chip marks and it seems one chip still has raised edges which may be in indication of more loose paint. Oh man, I hope not. Hoping to continue to fill it in a little more before smoothing the high spots.

I know this thread is growing to the absurd but I'm really just taking my time with the fix and hoping this may help someone else in the future. There will be more chips to cover as we ride... Yes, just another harleyism

Will continue the saga later today.

[Buy early]

Try this for the areas you want to protect:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=42620.0

It's better than the 3M film. Have the 3M film on my car so not dissing it. It's just that these guys specialize in bikes and I know this works extremely well because I have it on my scoot. See posts 251-253 on this thread:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=27725.30

[DICKW]

Follow up with my "get used to it"...  HA!   

I took a small drop of both bottles last night and mixed them on a piece of unfinished metal. Good news, no separation in the two and no puddling. Looks like this may be the next application.

However, I did take a bright light and shine it at different angles on the chip marks and it seems one chip still has raised edges which may be in indication of more loose paint. Oh man, I hope not. Hoping to continue to fill it in a little more before smoothing the high spots.

I know this thread is growing to the absurd but I'm really just taking my time with the fix and hoping this may help someone else in the future. There will be more chips to cover as we ride... Yes, just another harleyism

Will continue the saga later today.

I am interested in knowing how this turns out...keep on posting as reults are made.

[JCZ]

Me too.

[Mr. Wizard]

OK, cool... let's see if I can do a Hero rather than a Zero on this fix then. I'll do my best.

Here is an update. Remember above when I posted this?  I took a small drop of both bottles last night and mixed them on a piece of unfinished metal. Good news, no separation in the two and no puddling. Looks like this may be the next application.  Don't do it!

I went out there and matched the mixture to the bike. I don't know why I didn't think of this before but mixing the two creates a problem. No, it doesn't separate and blends pretty good but what it does do is diminish the base coat pigmentation. So, its a different color! Don't do it! Lesson learned and I'm very glad I didn't put it on the paint chips.

Today... I took some 3000 wet/dry paper and cut a piece about 1/4" wide by 3" long. I did this as to minimize the sanded area. I had a #2 pencil in the shop and put the 3000 paper on the end of the eraser by holding the paper and the pencil with my thumb and index finger. This holds the paper on the eraser so I can control the sand.

After wetting the paper I lightly rubbed across using up and down motion then side to side to smooth the high spots and finished up with light circular motions. The sanded area is now the size of Lima bean. Not to worry though, the light sanding area can be brought back to a fine finish with rubbing and polishing compound later.

Again using the basecoat only I used the brush to apply and fill in the low spots and finished with a toothpick. The toothpick is only for smoothing the paint out with a rolling motion and making sure you have coverage where you need it. A brush is more of a bull in a china shop for applying. (for those who have never used this method)

Waiting on this coat to dry. Next step will be to inspect this coat after drying and hopefully apply the pearl topcoat with the gold flake.

Hang on to your seats boys and girls.
 

[Invisible68]

OK, cool... let's see if I can do a Hero rather than a Zero on this fix then. I'll do my best.

Here is an update. Remember above when I posted this?  I took a small drop of both bottles last night and mixed them on a piece of unfinished metal. Good news, no separation in the two and no puddling. Looks like this may be the next application.  Don't do it!

I went out there and matched the mixture to the bike. I don't know why I didn't think of this before but mixing the two creates a problem. No, it doesn't separate and blends pretty good but what it does do is diminish the base coat pigmentation. So, its a different color! Don't do it! Lesson learned and I'm very glad I didn't put it on the paint chips.

Today... I took some 3000 wet/dry paper and cut a piece about 1/4" wide by 3" long. I did this as to minimize the sanded area. I had a #2 pencil in the shop and put the 3000 paper on the end of the eraser by holding the paper and the pencil with my thumb and index finger. This holds the paper on the eraser so I can control the sand.

After wetting the paper I lightly rubbed across using up and down motion then side to side to smooth the high spots and finished up with light circular motions. The sanded area is now the size of Lima bean. Not to worry though, the light sanding area can be brought back to a fine finish with rubbing and polishing compound later.

Again using the basecoat only I used the brush to apply and fill in the low spots and finished with a toothpick. The toothpick is only for smoothing the paint out with a rolling motion and making sure you have coverage where you need it. A brush is more of a bull in a china shop for applying. (for those who have never used this method)

Waiting on this coat to dry. Next step will be to inspect this coat after drying and hopefully apply the pearl topcoat with the gold flake.

Hang on to your seats boys and girls.
 

:
great write up..... but
worthless:

[Mr. Wizard]

Sorry Sir

Like I said above, my camera is just OK. It's hard to get a clear close up shot under three feet and get the light just right.

I will try again but.... ughhhhh   

[Mr. Wizard]

OK, got another camera and did the best I could. Held a flashlight at a different angle to set it off.

[DICKW]

For the life of me  I can't see it.........   

[Mr. Wizard]

For the life of me  I can't see it.........   

Two spots dead in the middle of the above shot. I can see it clearly but my monitor may show it better.

Copy the shot to your desktop and view it then enlarge the center.

[TIF2]

Looking good so far.

Keep in mind that base + top coats require finesse to get right. In the case of Pearl, Pearl is added in specific coats to match other pieces. It is NOT a one-for-one relationship for top-coat technique. This applies to other base + top systems as well.  Good news is that base coat is base coat - full saturation of base coat doesn't hurt anything. Apply as light a coat as possible of the top coat, then keep adding light coats until it matches. If the top coat goes on too thick, it's too late.

My input only - gotta say you are MUCH more patience than I for this!!
Good luck!

[DICKW]

Two spots dead in the middle of the above shot. I can see it clearly but my monitor may show it better.

Copy the shot to your desktop and view it then enlarge the center.

Got it, so far so good. That is after scuffing correct?

[Boatman]

Repair looks kind of like Howie with sunglasses.     

Sadly, I also see that the SESG doesn't get chrome torx screws for the turnsignal brackets either.   

Luckily, my dealer had some chrome bolts/washers.

[DICKW]

Repair looks kind of like Howie with sunglasses.     

Sadly, I also see that the SESG doesn't get chrome torx screws for the turnsignal brackets either.   

Luckily, my dealer had some chrome bolts/washers.

Damm, I had to buy mine.

[Mr. Wizard]

Got it, so far so good. That is after scuffing correct?

I'm in no way an expert at doing this, patient... yes unless my fuse get's lit. I've been dead once and soon will be on my third pacemaker so I have a different way of looking at things now than before.

Howey? Yep, I was thinking more a Willy G ghost.

Is the scuffing correct? Not sure my friend but as long as it's light scuffing it can be cleaned up with compound, yes?. It will also allow a better bonding action to the coats being applied in my opinion.  So, with that said... chime in and direct me another way to contemplate please....  Opps sorry, misread, yes it is after the scuffing.

I'm working in the base coat with very light applications and allowing 24 or more hours before doing anything else in a heat controlled environment. My thought process says to cover the loss of paint with base coat first to cover the sharp edges of the remaining paint around the chip. High spots can be smoothed before the application of the top coat. I'm on my third coat of base and feel that will be sufficient.

Next step will be to smooth again with 3000 paper, clean and apply the top coat on the chip and work it around the outside areas of each chip thus making the work space a little larger. I will do this to blend in the new and old for a smooth topical finish. However, the top coat will not be the final coat. I do have clear coat to apply and will use my test board with the mixed paint already on it to make sure the clear coat will be accepted properly.

When applying the clear coat I will again make the work space a little larger, let dry then compound everything out glassy smooth. Well, let's hope it works out that way.

[DICKW]

I am just sitting back admiring the work, I have no direction to give.

Looks to me like you have a handle on it.......

[Boatman]

Damm, I had to buy mine.

No Dick, it was another $10 or so.   

[DICKW]

No Dick, it was another $10 or so.   

Now look at the passenger floorboard Hex's they look like crap too. 

[tjstreetglide]

Nice chip taken out of the TS paint right above the beer can on the right side. Actually what ever hit the SG made two chips right next to each other. The chips are down to the primer.

I found out quickly that the TS paint is hard but thin and will chip easily. Even my thumb nail made one of the rock chips larger simply by rubbing across it to remove a high spot. Of course the impact may have loosened it and I was the catalyst that simply removed the loosened chip.

I did buy the touch paint kit a few weeks ago. Part # 94735 (about 40 bucks). There are two bottles. 1/2 oz of Scarlet Red Basecoat and 1/2 oz of Gold Pearl Topcoat. I also have some 3000 wet paper, rubbing and polishing compound.

I've never been that great at touch up. Any hints or suggestions that will make this blend better? All comments are welcome.

I purchased my "paint kit" from my stealer last weekend, All  I got was the spiced rum, no gold. I thought that was a strange kit?
Ill be going back to Renton  to get my other bottle. probably throw a fit, seems to be the only way I get things done right. Gotta change dealers. I wish I would not have bought the prepaid maintenance from them. They will not get my biz other than that anymore.

[TIF2]

I purchased my "paint kit" from my stealer last weekend, All  I got was the spiced rum, no gold. I thought that was a strange kit?

The "gold" is not paint, it is gold leaf. Probably impossible to match with touch-up. They DO make "gold leafing paint" that you can buy at very good craft stores - but it would probably look like chit if the gold leaf ever needed to be repaired.

The Spiced Rum kit probably just contains the base + top coat of the Spiced Rum color ... yah?

[Mr. Wizard]

Today's update...

With three base coat applications I decided to smooth out the high spots and apply the first coat of top coat.

Using the same sanding method as I have used above worked well and looked very good. I then started the top coat. Man, that was a HUGE mistake.

The pearl and gold flakes sure are pretty but it melted the base coat back down to the black primer and lightened up the base coat that was left in the rock chip area. It's so hot it melted the base coat which turned a lighter color.

OK, what did I do wrong?

I had to get it off quickly so I removed it with paint thinner and thank goodness it cleaned off. I"ll have to start over again but does anyone know the cause? Best guess?? Ask questions even if you think they are stupid you may hit on something. And, no, I'm not taking it to a paint shop..  LOL

[DICKW]

Today's update...

With three base coat applications I decided to smooth out the high spots and apply the first coat of top coat.

It's so hot it melted the base coat which turned a lighter color.

OK, what did I do wrong?

Best guess?? Ask questions even if you think they are stupid you may hit on something. And, no, I'm not taking it to a paint shop..  LOL

Best guess would be Chemical reaction, especially if you said it was so hot.

[Mr. Wizard]

Best guess would be Chemical reaction, especially if you said it was so hot.

Dick, I'll have to agree, it was not temperature hot it was chemically hot. The top coat simply melted the base coat.

I was thinking I should have applied it with a lighter touch and left it instead of smoothing with a toothpick. But, once the top coat was applied you could see the base coat becoming lighter in color.

I could have left it to see if it turned back to the same color but if it didn't then I would have played heck removing it after it dried.

[spydglide]

Have you considered chroming?    har!  spyder

[TIF2]

I'm a little bit confused ... it seems like the top coat was fine when applied to the "touched-up" portion, but had a severe reaction to areas around the part that had the touch-up paint applied?

As DICKW said ... there was a chemical reaction that took place and it appears as though it was the touch-up paint coming in contact with the factory clear. Dunno though - need a pic maybe?

Did you wipe the surrounding surface with some type of chemical to clean it?
Spit-balling here ... but definitely a chemical reaction took place, the question is - what caused it?

[Mr. Wizard]

Have you considered chroming?    har!  spyder

I wonder what a SESG would look like 100% chrome. Lots of cleaning for sure.

[Mr. Wizard]

I'm a little bit confused ... it seems like the top coat was fine when applied to the "touched-up" portion, but had a severe reaction to areas around the part that had the touch-up paint applied?

As DICKW said ... there was a chemical reaction that took place and it appears as though it was the touch-up paint coming in contact with the factory clear. Dunno though - need a pic maybe?

Did you wipe the surrounding surface with some type of chemical to clean it?
Spit-balling here ... but definitely a chemical reaction took place, the question is - what caused it?

The top coat worked and looked find on all the areas around the filled in chips but it reacted to the base coat that filled the chips.

The surrounding surface and the filled in chip holes were cleaned after sanding with an alcohol pad.

Sitting back and thinking about all this there is no doubt the base coat and clear coat will not mix. Even if the base coat is dry and sandable. I do have an idea though....

How about this... When preping this afternoon, and after the sanding was complete, the color seemed to match just fine. It was ready for the top coat I'm sure of it. Now, If I complete the steps again and get the base coat ready for the top coat again but instead of using the top coat I switch up and use a standard clear coat first. If the standard clear coat is not as hot as the top coat the color will not diminish and it will give me a good surface to apply the top coat. I truley believe the base coat and top coat just will simply not cover one another.


 

[TIF2]

Just FYI ... that replacement part in Tequila Sunrise retails for $180, is $144 at 20% off, and is NOT restricted.
I know what I would do .... 1-800-CALL-JENNI

I'd keep the original part to learn and experiment with.

[TIF2]

I truley believe the base coat and top coat just will simply not cover one another.

Painters call this a "spray-out" ... take a piece of scrap metal and test it. It's not a problem with it getting hot ... it's only a problem if it doesn't cure with the intended results. I would be VERY leary to try a different clear as a "mid coat".

After your posts it seems as if you may have jumped the gun a bit because of the reaction "warming" - that could be normal. Step back ... do a test panel (it doesn't have to be that pretty) then re-attack. First rule of painting is to understand what you are applying, how it flows-out, how it cures, etc.

Just my input ...

[DICKW]

Just FYI ... that replacement part in Tequila Sunrise retails for $180, is $144 at 20% off, and is NOT restricted.
I know what I would do .... 1-800-CALL-JENNI

I'd keep the original part to learn and experiment with.

It's always good to play around with the scoot, if it gets all goobered up and you still learned something.

That is what counts.

Then if you can't live with it, then go that route.

[spydglide]

It's always good to play around with the scoot, if it gets all goobered up and you still learned something.

That is what counts.

Then if you can't live with it, then go that route.

It's good to have that back up available.  spyder

[slamr]

You're doing a great job patching the chip but you will always know it's there.    I personally would dwell on this for as long as I owned the bike.  I would just replace the part or change to chrome.  I know it's expensive but think about the piece of mind.    JMHO. . . . .  Good luck. 

[Mr. Wizard]

I have a test board I've been using and have a base coat sample test already on it. I took half of it and applied the top coat... again it melted the base coat application.

I took the clear coat and applied it to the other half of the base coat I was testing. It went on fine, no discoloration and the base coat seemed to be solid.

I will let that dry and watch how it cures. Now this excites me a little...

As far as replacing the part...  I may if this doesn't work out but not right now. Thanks for the suggestion though, it may come down to just that.

Oh man... silly thread but having fun non the less

[TIF2]

Oh man... silly thread but having fun non the less

And that's all that matters brother!
Always here to offer worthless advice whenever you don't need it   

Keep us posted (pun intended)!

[CVOTequila]

Where was this chip again?

[miker]

I think the upper cover would look better in chrome anyway, jussayinzall.

The painted upper covers remind me of clam digger pants, dont know why, I have to accept what few thoughts my addled brain spews out.

[Mr. Wizard]

Where was this chip again?

It's just above the beer can on the right side. There's a picture of it at the top of page 2 of this thread.

Update... Still taking my time to fill the chip marks. Will be doing the third coat later today.

I've done more research and think I understand why the first application melted when the top coat was applied. It was indeed the "curing" of the base coat. Even though I am working in a heat controlled environment the touch up paint remains soft.

Looking at the used 3000 wet/dry paper I am noticing a build up on the paper. It is not loose powder like one would think would be on the paper, it is solid build up like I sanded something wet or sticky. I went on to look at my test board. My fingernail will imprint in the test swabs after several days of the original application. This tells me the touch up paint lacks "hardener" normally mixed with the paint. So, if the first applications didn't cure properly then the clear pearl addition would again soften the applied base mixture and cause it to loose it's chemical bond.

I have started using a hair drier to cure the paint in between coats hoping to harden each application. This seems to be working a bit better than allowing an air-dry effect.

Chroming is simply not an option. The beer cans are usually chrome but to do this doesn't follow the theme of the TS and the cost involved making this change doesn't seem reasonable at this time. This project has grown out of hand but my maker touched me with a curiosity bug long ago and it's now my nature to follow through on aggravating things like this. Chroming would be an easy way out.

Again the chip marks are filling in nicely and the added heat seems to harden the touch paint a little better. Before I add a third coat today I will test the sanding and check the curing. If all goes well I would expect this to be completed soon. At that time I will post a before and after picture and give a step by step analogy of the process.

(Like I said before, this thread is a bit silly but if it helps someone else down the road I will continue to wear my dunce hat for a while)

[CVOTequila]

Well, I suppose it could be a worse location...like the tank or saddlebag.  You are brave to DIY on the repair!                 

[spydglide]

I think the upper cover would look better in chrome anyway, jussayinzall.

The painted upper covers remind me of clam digger pants, dont know why, I have to accept what few thoughts my addled brain spews out.

And I was just getting use to the painted parts on the forks......now, I'll never see  them w/o this image popping into my impressionistic/feeble mind.    har!  spyder

[miker]

Sorry Bro....I aint right, caint hep it...

If I were lucky enough to have one, it would be the 1st mod.

[Invisible68]

first thing I am doing is chroming those parts and painting the inner fairing....

[miker]

Good, I thought it was just me...

[CVOTequila]

first thing I am doing is chroming those parts and painting the inner fairing....

let us know what it sets you back to chrome it!! I have been thinking about doing the same thing. 

[miker]

Uppers for another bike I knew of ran bout 75$ and the replacement air deflector bout 50 if I remember right, 50/50 shot there...

[8 U UP]

Those of us that have the serg are lucky, chrome fork uppers, painted inner fairing, but unfortunately no seemless bags.

[miker]

Kinda ?

Lower triple tree cover

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524446435539&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374306699851&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374309065646&bmUID=1259950925007&bmLocale=en_US

Upper fork covers?

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441841923&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302290755&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302290755&bmUID=1259950990620&bmLocale=en_US

[spydglide]

Miker, that lower chrome cover is a nice piece (I've got it) but, it's not the part that Mr. Wizard is trying to fix.  His rock chip is on the front cover under the headlight.  I'm wondering if you wouldn't want to just buy the chrome parts and retain the painted ones to either sell to someone (like Mr. Wizard) or in case you wanted for some reason to return the SESG to it's original form?  Price would probably be close and you'd have the extra 'custom painted parts'.  Always a good thing.  har!  spyder

[miker]

I just hope these red bike guys dont have pop-off paint troubles...It wasnt long ago we had thumbprints, milk duds and such goins on...

[miker]

Black fairing skirt,80 buck, must a chrome one somewheres???



http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448647285&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302287249&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302287249&bmUID=1259954047011&bmLocale=en_US

[miker]

Ebay has everything!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrome-Harley-touring-fairing-skirt_W0QQitemZ260516055920QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca7f78b70#ht_500wt_1171

[Mr. Wizard]

Update...

Finished the third coat and cured with heat. Remember this is my second round of fixing these chips.

I tested with a light sanding and the third coat seemed to be hard enough to smooth out without issues. After sanding the touch up spots smooth I noticed there were still tiny areas that didn't get filled in. This is important and applied another round of base coat. So, that makes four. You'll have to understand that these chips in the paint were deep and fairly good size. When a base coat is applied then cured it tends to shrink and leave a cavity where you applied paint in the chip. Again, it is important to use thin layers and have patience to get just the right coverage.

Today I will again lightly sand out the surrounding high spots and smooth the surface. If a fifth coat is necessary I will spend some time doing that and let cure. If a fifth coat is not necessary I plan to buff out the spot to a high gloss finish, clean and prepare for the top or mid coat.

This is where I am at, more to come...

[DICKW]

Update...

Finished the third coat and cured with heat. Remember this is my second round of fixing these chips.

I tested with a light sanding and the third coat seemed to be hard enough to smooth out without issues. After sanding the touch up spots smooth I noticed there were still tiny areas that didn't get filled in. This is important and applied another round of base coat. So, that makes four. You'll have to understand that these chips in the paint were deep and fairly good size. When a base coat is applied then cured it tends to shrink and leave a cavity where you applied paint in the chip. Again, it is important to use thin layers and have patience to get just the right coverage.

Today I will again lightly sand out the surrounding high spots and smooth the surface. If a fifth coat is necessary I will spend some time doing that and let cure. If a fifth coat is not necessary I plan to buff out the spot to a high gloss finish, clean and prepare for the top or mid coat.

This is where I am at, more to come...

If it were me, after buffing I would wait a few (3-5) days before you put the top coat on.

If you have the patience to wait that is.

[Mr. Wizard]

If it were me, after buffing I would wait a few (3-5) days before you put the top coat on.

If you have the patience to wait that is.

Patience is free so I have plenty saved up.

Actually I was thinking I should wait and make darn sure the base coat is dry. If not I could wind up doing it all over again, thanks for the reminder.

[Invisible68]

let us know what it sets you back to chrome it!! I have been thinking about doing the same thing. 

looked on line on ebay and watched a couple... also talked to parts guy for about 130 bucks for the all the pieces... will replace them when I install the painted inner fairing and do the chrome... diamond brake lines too.... and of course the pm mirrors... so it lookes like my old bike....

[Invisible68]

close up of same picture better clarrity.....

[Mr. Wizard]

Update...

I found an easier way to help cure the additional layers of base coat. I set up a Halogen shop lamp about 18" away from the painted area. After a few hours the top layer is sandable but you must let it cool first.

Yesterday I did add a fifth layer of base coat and changed the way I was using the 3000 paper. Because I was sanding with a small diameter object like the pencil eraser it wasn't giving me the overall coverage I need to smooth the entire working area to blend with the rest of the painted area. So I was removing base coat that I just applied causing me to add more layers just to sand them down again.

I changed the sanding block (so to speak) to an old fuse box I had in my drawer. This gave me the ability to smooth the high spots around the entire area which allowed me to change to rubbing compound to finish up. This was the ticket I needed to finish the base coat.

After using polishing compound to clean up the haze and bring the base coat to a high gloss I was ready for the top coat and the chance to see if my curing procedure was adequate and it seemed to do the trick. Below is the first application of the first top coat.

[spydglide]

By Jove, I think you've got it!  har.  I was wondering about the pencil eraser all along (the hard/flat rubber was good, just not the small size).  And that HOT lamp gives you the curing of a paint booth....now, you can ride hard and not worry 'bout the road trash coming your way, 'cause you know how to make it look new again.  spyder

[DICKW]

Looks real good from Va.   
Nice job. The heat lamp sounded like it did the trick for you.

[slamr]

Looking goooood!

[djkak]

I think the upper cover would look better in chrome anyway, jussayinzall.

The painted upper covers remind me of clam digger pants, dont know why, I have to accept what few thoughts my addled brain spews out.

Now that you mention it, the “cow bells” were called “pant legs” in the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. 

[Mr. Wizard]

After the curing of the first application of the top coat I went ahead and made a thin wide swab coat which I believe will be my final coat of the pearl and flake. This should help the repair to blend in to the unaffected areas surrounding the rock chips.

I will inspect that tomorrow and see if it is satisfactory. If so, I will then apply a final clear coat to deepen the look of the flake, take the final pictures and post the steps I used and all the tricks I learned to get the end results.

Man, what a project.   

[SBB]

Now that you mention it, the “cow bells” were called “pant legs” in the ‘60’s and ‘70’s.  

djkak-------> site historian

                


               SBB

[djkak]

djkak-------> site historian

                


               SBB

That beats curator of marginally useful information….did I just get a promotion? 

[SBB]

That beats curator of marginally useful information….did I just get a promotion?  

Tis not my title to give. But I think it's a good idea.
It beats "spewer of bad info" besides that title is taken.
When you, Jerry, Scott and a few others speak, I listen!
I appreciate your post, site historian title or not.

SBB

[Invisible68]

Paint repair looks great .... you going to have drive up service next spring?!?!?

[CVOTequila]

teach us Mr. Wizard!!    Repair is looking great.

[djkak]

Tis not my title to give. But I think it's a good idea.
It beats "spewer of bad info" besides that title is taken.
When you, Jerry, Scott and a few others speak, I listen!
I appreciate your post, site historian title or not.

SBB

I appreciate the sentiment just the same; besides I’ve already sewn the stripe onto my jacket. 

[skreminegul07]

Be careful with a heat lamp.  It can quickly fade the paint.  I spent early years in a body shop. Also, for small touch up we always tore a match from the matchbook, and used the torn end as a small brush.

[Mr. Wizard]

Be careful with a heat lamp.  It can quickly fade the paint.  I spent early years in a body shop. Also, for small touch up we always tore a match from the matchbook, and used the torn end as a small brush.

Thanks for that info. Hopefully there is no fading effect from the usage of the shop lamp.

The paper matchstick idea is a really good one too.


I'm just about done... final clear coat went on last night. Will take a look at the blending, polish and wax.

[miker]

I have used a q tip too, just pull all the cotton off and use the paper stick...dab into paint, then dab on a cloth then dab on the chip..

Testors black enamel model paint is a dead ringer for the frame and wheels too...or just collect "beauty"marks...

So far you are doing it right, go slow, many coats or dabs...

[Mr. Wizard]

The day was brisk but the riding itch just had to be scratched. My 2010 SESG Tequila Sunrise was sitting pretty all cleaned and waxed calling my name saying; “Daddy, come ride me. I only have 300 miles and really need breaking in!” Oh, how could a guy resist such temptation? Off I go and what a wonderful day of riding too never minding the cold temperatures.

After each ride I sit back and just look at her. The glory of the TQ paint raising her gold and glitter with each ray of sunshine. There’s nothing like the enticing gleam of eye candy and chrome as you scan every inch and enjoy her wonder until you stop frozen in silence.

No, it can’t be. It has to be dirt. Off I go to get my wet Chamois. I kneel and get a closer look. No, it just can’t be, a death chill ran through my heart. Paint chip! No, no way, NOOOooooo !! How could this be??

No matter how it got there, I was furious as the awe quickly turned into anger. I just couldn’t look at it anymore. I turned in shame and walked away.

[Mr. Wizard]

Later that evening and not being able to clear this paradox from my racing thoughts I knew I needed a plan. Proverbially patting myself on the back with an “at-a-boy”, knowing the TQ paint was rumored to be in jeopardy with an obsolete ingredient, I had taken the steps earlier and received the Harley Paint touch up kit.

The next morning I cleared my work schedule and like a bull in a china shop whisked up the touch up kit and made a work space. Setting up a Halogen shop light and stool I took a closer look at the injury much like a surgeon ready to save a life. Inspecting the two chip marks which were side by side I noticed even more trouble. I also had further damage which could be seen as high spots. There was loose paint that had lifted from the impact which presented more trouble than I had originally planned for. I wanted to go on, full speed ahead, but the next breath brought composure. No, I needed help. I couldn’t continue… I needed help. I had to research how, I needed help.

I have never been a pro at touch up. With each try came a fleeting moment of despair as each incorrect step took me further into the abyss. Past repairs had looked worse than the original injustice and this was not going to happen to my new baby. Another breath of composure, I walked away.

[Mr. Wizard]

Over the next few days the pain and anger subsided a bit which allowed patience to take over my mental state. Researching forum after forum, thumbing thread by post by not finding what I truly needed even Google was my fleeting friend.  Asking for assistance was in the cards but how to let my ego allow this? Help?? I didn’t need no frigg’n help!! And yet another day passed in silence.

As I continued to contemplate something else popped up. I remembered an authoring from some reading passages when I was a younger man. It went something like this. *The less symbols of the alphabet a word contained the less the value of the true importance. The three letters of the word Ego, the two letters making up the word “Me” and the finality of the word “I” was of less importance than the word “Others”, “Friend” or “Partner”.* Yes, I needed your help so I asked.

Thank you goes to all that assisted with suggestions, hint and tricks. This project is an accumulation of others, not just me.

Let’s get down to the meat and potatoes. Everyone is hungry by now.

[Mr. Wizard]

At the bottom of this post is a shot of everything I used. Some more than others but it beat listing everything. I will, however, give a list of tips at the end.

What I saw were two chips of paint side by side with extended high parts of the paint around the chips. Loose paint would be a later hazard so these loose areas must also be removed. I really didn’t like this part but was necessary to complete the repair without having future repair needs on the same spot. I carefully raised the loose area with a toothpick and let it hit the ground. I saw no other loose flakes or raised spots.

The chips were in the cowling just under the headlight. This is a metal part and was gloss black before factory painting. It didn’t look like any primer I’ve seen. Paint may not stick to gloss so I took a small portion of 2000 wet/dry paper and scuffed up this area with the assistance of the end of a stiff paperclip. Cleaning the area, after scuffing, with rubbing alcohol it was ready for the first coat of Harley base coat.

[Mr. Wizard]

This may be of no consequence but I used a toothpick to add the base coat around the unpainted areas first to make sure the sharp edges had a seal and a higher boarder. This would assist the next coats to stay on a vertical surface. Envision water being held back by the bank of a lake.

I found out by trial and error that curing is critical. Touch up paint doesn’t have a drying agent that I know of and without some form of curing you may have to wait days and days depending on the climate. I used the Halogen shop light about 18” from the surface. **Caution** Also being told… the use of a heat lamp will assist in fading the paint, so be careful here. My cure time was two hours and let cool. Further paint or sanding could be easily done after this time period.

Here is a shot after three coats of base coat with light sanding in between coats. When sanding you will need a sanding block of some sort that is firm yet small. I used the end of an old fuse box. This blocking of the paper will keep you from digging into the painted chip areas and help you keep the topical addition of paint consistent with the surrounding area. If you notice your paper sticking during the sanding period then more curing time is needed. Your paper should slide easily over the painted areas with a light touch.

Be sure to use water when sanding. Make short and light strokes across the painted areas like you are using an eraser. Freshen the paper often and reapply water. This is important as you don’t want to scar the good paint in the surround areas.

After a light sanding I used rubbing compound on a white Harley cleaning cloth with my finger to finish removing bumpy areas in the base coat. I thought this to be safer than sanding. The next step is to continue to apply the base coat in thin layers, again allow for curing, and continue to smooth.

Once you are satisfied that your paint chip holes are filled and smooth I recommend putting a high gloss on this area with polishing compound. If the finish is dull then the top coat will allow the dull area to shine though.

[Mr. Wizard]

All cleaned up now? Good. The next step is the Harley top coat. I’m going to call it top coat because that is what is on the bottle. It’s truly a mid coat but more on that later.

Be sure to clean the area with alcohol before applying the top coat. Shake the bottle of top coat for the full two minutes, don’t cheat. I did and had to start over. Shake, shake and shake some more.

Bring a bright light or have someone hold a good light for you to fully brighten up the working area. No shadows are allowed. If you try the top coat without proper lighting you will simply not know where to stop and apply too much. I found the application of top coat has to be very, very thin and applied quickly or brush marks will stick out like a sore thumb or you could leave a glob of clear pearl which will not be found until you inspect after curing. So, get ready and pay attention to detail here.

With the lighting perfect and my surface cleaned, top coat shaken and ready, I removed all access from the brush leaving just enough to cover the chip holes with the base paint. Making one pass with the top coat is sufficient for now. Let it cure.

[Mr. Wizard]

Once your first top coat has cured and it isn’t a blob then you are ready for your next coat of top coat. See above! Do it the same as the first coat. Let it cure and sit back. The next most important step is patience. You will need to apply several coats of top coat but not over the top of each other, just yet. Each top coat must blend with the one just before. I can’t tell you how important this is. You will not be able to sand top coat. It has metal flakes in it and these flakes will be exposed. Your finished sanding efforts will result in a field of glitter trees reaching for the heavens that will have no mercy on your attempts at perfection.

 OK, because you screwed the pooch doing this, don’t panic. Dab a little paint thinner on a micro towel and lightly remove the bad application of top coat. I found I could do this even after curing. Like a calligraphy writer you can make strokes in pinpointed areas to remove only what needs to be removed or you can call in the tank reserves and wipe the entire area. Careful… too much rubbing will remove some base coat too.

Ready to start over?…  yeah, happened to me too. You can practice with a test board if you want. This really helped me. So, let’s try again until this is right.

Good, you’re happy with the results now and ready for a tougher task. Clear coat time!

All is ready; your work area has the base coat and is smooth. The top coat is on with the pearl and gold glitter and it is not lumpy or over glittery in one area and has cured. Cool. If you are satisfied with your work you may want to consider stopping here. The last clear coat is not for the nervous or the impatient types.

Applying the final coat of clear is nerve racking and it takes patience and a steady hand. The area you will be working on will be larger than the area of top coat which was larger than the base coat area. So, with a clean working area and your clear coat shaken up, work your thin coats of clear over the top using a single brush stroke and stop. Let it cure and inspect the area have a plan of attack and do it again. Continue to cover the area until you are satisfied with your coverage. You can then cure and polish out the clear coat and take pictures. Yes, you are finished and should be very proud of your work. Congratulations!!

[Mr. Wizard]

Tips and hints.

Gather your materials first and have them within reach.

Close the tops of each container before the work is started with that product.

Use a well lit clean working area.

Use light strokes when sanding like you are using an eraser on thin paper.

Clean your workspace with alcohol before each attempt to apply paint.

Do not get anxious, patience is the key to success.

Do not use rubbing compound to the extreme, it can damage the other painted surfaces too.

Polish out the fine scratches before applying top or clear coats.

Practice on a work board before applying to your bike.

Curing is of the utmost importance before sanding or applying a second coat.

Trouble can be cleaned up with paint thinner and a soft cloth, so don’t panic.

Have a plan before you apply anything.

No beer until the fat lady sings.

Enjoy your success!

[DICKW]

Your a hell of a guy.......................good post.

[miker]

 

[Kevinski]

Nice job  Do we think this is a risky stone chip area? This was chrome on my CUSE.

Kev

[DESERTBEAR54]

God Forbid that you catch a bolder on your front fender at 80+ mph like I did on the freeway when I only had 70 miles on Kasper. Put a nice crator in my front fender. I was upset for days until I finally realized I love to ride and life happens and I have no control over certain things. I got my touch-up paint out and glasses and proceeded in touching up the little crator. Most people don't ever notice it but I know its there and I'm the one that rides it so it's ok with me today!! I know that if I had pulled that front fender off and payed someone a lump of money to fix it and re-paint it that I will have another rock hit me and then I get to cry all over again. Today with over 41,000 miles on Kasper I just keep my touch-up paint near by.

[CVOTequila]

Wizard,

If this Forum has an award, like an Oscar, you would be the recipient!!!! Awesome post with great info!!   

[Mr. Wizard]

Nice job  Do we think this is a risky stone chip area? This was chrome on my CUSE.

Kev

Yes. This area will be, IMO, very risky for a painted surface. Several had suggested chrome but until it looks like a field of moon craters I will stick with the TQ scheme.

For those guys who use the 3M coating I would highly recommend this area and the cans be covered to if they are not already.

[Mr. Wizard]

Thank you guys for your most kind comments. Oscars will be passed to all as it was not an "I" project. Help on posts and PM's behind the scenes were of great help. If nothing else they helped me to remain calm yet driven.

 

There really hasn't been any sunshine over the past few days here but as soon as there is I want to take her outside and take some shots. There's always the chance of real light showing up imperfections that are not noticed indoors. Still may have some head scratching to do later but for now, Thank you, thank you very much for the push.

-Wiz