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[skreminegul07]

Be careful with a heat lamp.  It can quickly fade the paint.  I spent early years in a body shop. Also, for small touch up we always tore a match from the matchbook, and used the torn end as a small brush.

[Mr. Wizard]

Be careful with a heat lamp.  It can quickly fade the paint.  I spent early years in a body shop. Also, for small touch up we always tore a match from the matchbook, and used the torn end as a small brush.

Thanks for that info. Hopefully there is no fading effect from the usage of the shop lamp.

The paper matchstick idea is a really good one too.


I'm just about done... final clear coat went on last night. Will take a look at the blending, polish and wax.

[miker]

I have used a q tip too, just pull all the cotton off and use the paper stick...dab into paint, then dab on a cloth then dab on the chip..

Testors black enamel model paint is a dead ringer for the frame and wheels too...or just collect "beauty"marks...

So far you are doing it right, go slow, many coats or dabs...

[Mr. Wizard]

The day was brisk but the riding itch just had to be scratched. My 2010 SESG Tequila Sunrise was sitting pretty all cleaned and waxed calling my name saying; “Daddy, come ride me. I only have 300 miles and really need breaking in!” Oh, how could a guy resist such temptation? Off I go and what a wonderful day of riding too never minding the cold temperatures.

After each ride I sit back and just look at her. The glory of the TQ paint raising her gold and glitter with each ray of sunshine. There’s nothing like the enticing gleam of eye candy and chrome as you scan every inch and enjoy her wonder until you stop frozen in silence.

No, it can’t be. It has to be dirt. Off I go to get my wet Chamois. I kneel and get a closer look. No, it just can’t be, a death chill ran through my heart. Paint chip! No, no way, NOOOooooo !! How could this be??

No matter how it got there, I was furious as the awe quickly turned into anger. I just couldn’t look at it anymore. I turned in shame and walked away.

[Mr. Wizard]

Later that evening and not being able to clear this paradox from my racing thoughts I knew I needed a plan. Proverbially patting myself on the back with an “at-a-boy”, knowing the TQ paint was rumored to be in jeopardy with an obsolete ingredient, I had taken the steps earlier and received the Harley Paint touch up kit.

The next morning I cleared my work schedule and like a bull in a china shop whisked up the touch up kit and made a work space. Setting up a Halogen shop light and stool I took a closer look at the injury much like a surgeon ready to save a life. Inspecting the two chip marks which were side by side I noticed even more trouble. I also had further damage which could be seen as high spots. There was loose paint that had lifted from the impact which presented more trouble than I had originally planned for. I wanted to go on, full speed ahead, but the next breath brought composure. No, I needed help. I couldn’t continue… I needed help. I had to research how, I needed help.

I have never been a pro at touch up. With each try came a fleeting moment of despair as each incorrect step took me further into the abyss. Past repairs had looked worse than the original injustice and this was not going to happen to my new baby. Another breath of composure, I walked away.

[Mr. Wizard]

Over the next few days the pain and anger subsided a bit which allowed patience to take over my mental state. Researching forum after forum, thumbing thread by post by not finding what I truly needed even Google was my fleeting friend.  Asking for assistance was in the cards but how to let my ego allow this? Help?? I didn’t need no frigg’n help!! And yet another day passed in silence.

As I continued to contemplate something else popped up. I remembered an authoring from some reading passages when I was a younger man. It went something like this. *The less symbols of the alphabet a word contained the less the value of the true importance. The three letters of the word Ego, the two letters making up the word “Me” and the finality of the word “I” was of less importance than the word “Others”, “Friend” or “Partner”.* Yes, I needed your help so I asked.

Thank you goes to all that assisted with suggestions, hint and tricks. This project is an accumulation of others, not just me.

Let’s get down to the meat and potatoes. Everyone is hungry by now.

[Mr. Wizard]

At the bottom of this post is a shot of everything I used. Some more than others but it beat listing everything. I will, however, give a list of tips at the end.

What I saw were two chips of paint side by side with extended high parts of the paint around the chips. Loose paint would be a later hazard so these loose areas must also be removed. I really didn’t like this part but was necessary to complete the repair without having future repair needs on the same spot. I carefully raised the loose area with a toothpick and let it hit the ground. I saw no other loose flakes or raised spots.

The chips were in the cowling just under the headlight. This is a metal part and was gloss black before factory painting. It didn’t look like any primer I’ve seen. Paint may not stick to gloss so I took a small portion of 2000 wet/dry paper and scuffed up this area with the assistance of the end of a stiff paperclip. Cleaning the area, after scuffing, with rubbing alcohol it was ready for the first coat of Harley base coat.

[Mr. Wizard]

This may be of no consequence but I used a toothpick to add the base coat around the unpainted areas first to make sure the sharp edges had a seal and a higher boarder. This would assist the next coats to stay on a vertical surface. Envision water being held back by the bank of a lake.

I found out by trial and error that curing is critical. Touch up paint doesn’t have a drying agent that I know of and without some form of curing you may have to wait days and days depending on the climate. I used the Halogen shop light about 18” from the surface. **Caution** Also being told… the use of a heat lamp will assist in fading the paint, so be careful here. My cure time was two hours and let cool. Further paint or sanding could be easily done after this time period.

Here is a shot after three coats of base coat with light sanding in between coats. When sanding you will need a sanding block of some sort that is firm yet small. I used the end of an old fuse box. This blocking of the paper will keep you from digging into the painted chip areas and help you keep the topical addition of paint consistent with the surrounding area. If you notice your paper sticking during the sanding period then more curing time is needed. Your paper should slide easily over the painted areas with a light touch.

Be sure to use water when sanding. Make short and light strokes across the painted areas like you are using an eraser. Freshen the paper often and reapply water. This is important as you don’t want to scar the good paint in the surround areas.

After a light sanding I used rubbing compound on a white Harley cleaning cloth with my finger to finish removing bumpy areas in the base coat. I thought this to be safer than sanding. The next step is to continue to apply the base coat in thin layers, again allow for curing, and continue to smooth.

Once you are satisfied that your paint chip holes are filled and smooth I recommend putting a high gloss on this area with polishing compound. If the finish is dull then the top coat will allow the dull area to shine though.

[Mr. Wizard]

All cleaned up now? Good. The next step is the Harley top coat. I’m going to call it top coat because that is what is on the bottle. It’s truly a mid coat but more on that later.

Be sure to clean the area with alcohol before applying the top coat. Shake the bottle of top coat for the full two minutes, don’t cheat. I did and had to start over. Shake, shake and shake some more.

Bring a bright light or have someone hold a good light for you to fully brighten up the working area. No shadows are allowed. If you try the top coat without proper lighting you will simply not know where to stop and apply too much. I found the application of top coat has to be very, very thin and applied quickly or brush marks will stick out like a sore thumb or you could leave a glob of clear pearl which will not be found until you inspect after curing. So, get ready and pay attention to detail here.

With the lighting perfect and my surface cleaned, top coat shaken and ready, I removed all access from the brush leaving just enough to cover the chip holes with the base paint. Making one pass with the top coat is sufficient for now. Let it cure.

[Mr. Wizard]

Once your first top coat has cured and it isn’t a blob then you are ready for your next coat of top coat. See above! Do it the same as the first coat. Let it cure and sit back. The next most important step is patience. You will need to apply several coats of top coat but not over the top of each other, just yet. Each top coat must blend with the one just before. I can’t tell you how important this is. You will not be able to sand top coat. It has metal flakes in it and these flakes will be exposed. Your finished sanding efforts will result in a field of glitter trees reaching for the heavens that will have no mercy on your attempts at perfection.

 OK, because you screwed the pooch doing this, don’t panic. Dab a little paint thinner on a micro towel and lightly remove the bad application of top coat. I found I could do this even after curing. Like a calligraphy writer you can make strokes in pinpointed areas to remove only what needs to be removed or you can call in the tank reserves and wipe the entire area. Careful… too much rubbing will remove some base coat too.

Ready to start over?…  yeah, happened to me too. You can practice with a test board if you want. This really helped me. So, let’s try again until this is right.

Good, you’re happy with the results now and ready for a tougher task. Clear coat time!

All is ready; your work area has the base coat and is smooth. The top coat is on with the pearl and gold glitter and it is not lumpy or over glittery in one area and has cured. Cool. If you are satisfied with your work you may want to consider stopping here. The last clear coat is not for the nervous or the impatient types.

Applying the final coat of clear is nerve racking and it takes patience and a steady hand. The area you will be working on will be larger than the area of top coat which was larger than the base coat area. So, with a clean working area and your clear coat shaken up, work your thin coats of clear over the top using a single brush stroke and stop. Let it cure and inspect the area have a plan of attack and do it again. Continue to cover the area until you are satisfied with your coverage. You can then cure and polish out the clear coat and take pictures. Yes, you are finished and should be very proud of your work. Congratulations!!

[Mr. Wizard]

Tips and hints.

Gather your materials first and have them within reach.

Close the tops of each container before the work is started with that product.

Use a well lit clean working area.

Use light strokes when sanding like you are using an eraser on thin paper.

Clean your workspace with alcohol before each attempt to apply paint.

Do not get anxious, patience is the key to success.

Do not use rubbing compound to the extreme, it can damage the other painted surfaces too.

Polish out the fine scratches before applying top or clear coats.

Practice on a work board before applying to your bike.

Curing is of the utmost importance before sanding or applying a second coat.

Trouble can be cleaned up with paint thinner and a soft cloth, so don’t panic.

Have a plan before you apply anything.

No beer until the fat lady sings.

Enjoy your success!

[DICKW]

Your a hell of a guy.......................good post.

[miker]

 

[Kevinski]

Nice job  Do we think this is a risky stone chip area? This was chrome on my CUSE.

Kev

[DESERTBEAR54]

God Forbid that you catch a bolder on your front fender at 80+ mph like I did on the freeway when I only had 70 miles on Kasper. Put a nice crator in my front fender. I was upset for days until I finally realized I love to ride and life happens and I have no control over certain things. I got my touch-up paint out and glasses and proceeded in touching up the little crator. Most people don't ever notice it but I know its there and I'm the one that rides it so it's ok with me today!! I know that if I had pulled that front fender off and payed someone a lump of money to fix it and re-paint it that I will have another rock hit me and then I get to cry all over again. Today with over 41,000 miles on Kasper I just keep my touch-up paint near by.