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[Heatwave]

The biggest problem I am having is that I am currently getting over 120TQ (see attached dyno) with only a SERT and a set of Fatcats and over 100TQ at 2200 RPM's. I hate to spend a ton of money for only HP and possibly lose some "low end" grunt.. Thoughts?

Right now you have a very nice performance curve. You don't necessarily have to lose anything on the bottom end with the right cam selection. Right now your bike dies pretty quick over 4000rpms. To be honest, if you don't run the gears out (5500-6000) you're not likely to notice a big difference over your current performance after any additional upgrades targeting HP.

OTOH, if you like to run the gears out to higher rpms, then you'll notice a significant difference over the 95hp you current build has. It all comes down to riding style and $. Since your dyno is STD, if it were run in SAE mode, then your performance would be more like 93/117 if you're looking to compare your current performance with other SAE dynos.

[SBB]

My 2010 CVO Ultra 110 with headwork, 58mmTB, 5.3gms/sec injectors, roller rockers, D&D Fatcat and Woods 408-6 cam is dynoed at 129/129 actual, 123/123SAE. I couldn't be more pleased with the performance and reliability and I have almost 25,000 miles on the build (30,000 on the bike). Just got back from a 2600 mile 2UP ride and the bike was flawless.

Got to love a good running SEUC!
Congrats Heatwave!

                        

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[SDCVO]

Thanks Heatwave, that makes sense... on a regular basis I don't run much past 4000 (couldn't really now even if I wanted too) but would love to be able to "get my kicks" once in a while if I had the ability too. It reassures me that after the new build (whatever that ends up being) that I wont really lose the "low end". It does make me want to proceed. Thanks!

[Heatwave]

Thanks Heatwave, that makes sense... on a regular basis I don't run much past 4000 (couldn't really now even if I wanted too) but would love to be able to "get my kicks" once in a while if I had the ability too. It reassures me that after the new build (whatever that ends up being) that I wont really lose the "low end". It does make me want to proceed. Thanks!

Its worth noting that I tend to ride hard (not when I'm 2Up). Probably harder than most other riders. I love running right up to my 6250 redline and feeling endless pull through the rpms. I also enjoy having a strong motor that runs smoothly at 2000 rpms and can accelerate hard from 2500, so I understand why you don't want to lose the low end you currently enjoy. But you need to know that getting high hp out of those upper rpms isn't cheap. It comes down to increasing both air and fuel while balancing the tune to maximize the performance in these upper rpms while not losing the bottom end. To achieve that balance you're going to need headwork, more air flow through a larger throttlebody and more fuel through larger injectors. I actually could use larger injectors than my 5.3's since I've tapped out my VEs and the engine could still use more with the timing I run.

Getting a higher lift cam (.650") isn't for the guy that worries about topend noise. Most hi-lift cams are going to require higher performance springs and are going to be noisier than stock springs with a low lift cam. I think my Woods 408-6 are excellent for maximizing both low end and top end but they are not a quiet cam. You can be assured that when you rip the throttle with this hi-lift cam and a Fatcat, you need to be prepared that every car and biker within a quarter mile will know it.

The upside is endless pull to redline and squeezing the last bit of power out of your 110. Be prepared to find out that the motor is much more exciting in the upper rpms than you're accustom to. I don't think a 110 can deliver much more power than mine is generating without forced induction. Good luck with whatever path you choose.