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[RayG]

I'm planning on doing some preventative maintenance on my 08 SERK again this winter.  I know I need  to replace the rear brake rotor.  I did the 30t sprocket & belt last year and noticed that the rear sprocket has some wear but not sure about replacing it with the step bearings.  Any idea on when to replace the wheel bearings?  Thinking about replacing the swingarm bushings as well but I have had the True Track with the Baker+1 oil pan since it was new.  Don't have anyone nearby that I trust so I'm counting on some feedback from my CVO brothers.  Don't want to spend more that what is necessary but I'm a firm believer in preventative maintenance.  Haven't had any major issue's and want to keep it that way. 

I'm open to any advice

Ray G

[trippy]

Hi Ray,

With regard the wheel bearings, I have a 2007 SERK, has the same bearings, reading the service manuals, it does not state any time or millage intervals for replacing them, it just says test, "clean bearing, put a finger into the inner race and turn your finger, if no noise or roughness then they are fine", myself I check them any time the wheels come off, just to be safe.

I see you use the True-trac, did you find the rear unstable at high speed sweeping bends as I did,  I also use a similar device (bagger brace), but I also
changed the swing arm pivot for the GLIDE-PRO conversion including the front motor mount, made a huge difference, check out there web site.

Mark.

[RayG]

Mark,

Thanks for the advice, I expected a little more input as some of us are starting to rack up the mileage on the 110's.  I'm installing a new rear tire this winter and the back rotor definitely needs to be replaced so I'll check the bearings as you suggested.  I found the True Track along with the AK-20 Traxxion front end and the 13" Bitubo's almost mandatory for my kind of riding.  I'm not into drag racing much, but I do love to enter a tight corner carrying a speed I'm comfortable with and the stock bike was just not cutting it.  I did the changes after a nasty scare when I was doing a downhill left hand sweeper while getting on the throttle when the bike was fairly new.  I found this forum and made the mentioned changes.  I'll check into the web site you mentioned, but I suspect I have seen it. 

Try to explain to your wife as I'm sure many have that this here CVO has all the goodies and then you drop big money for poor handling, lack of a decent suspension and then on to manage the heat etc. etc.  My wife thinks I'm nuts and at this point I'm convinced that she is right.   



 

[grc]

Bearings are relatively cheap and easy to replace, so once you've got the wheel off it's a no brainer.  There have been many reported failures, especially on some of the newer models, and at 50k miles I'd consider it to be cheap insurance to just change them.  Sealed bearings aren't foolproof, especially when they are purchased from the cheapest possible source.


Jerry

[Twolanerider]

Just to start a chorus here I put wheel bearings on a 50k replacement cycle.  When a bike gets that far I'll change wheel bearings at the closest tire change before or after 50k for no other reason than "just because."  

Even good bearings are cheap when purchased from someplace like IBT.  From the Drag catalog they can be had for less than $25 a pair if I remember correctly.  If nothing else for the tool whores among us it's an excuse to buy a new tool.

[RayG]

Thanks for the advice.  I never would have thought I would put that many miles on is such a short time.  Grandchildren come first and this summer had numerous small weekend trips cancelled due to an unexpected but much appreciated visit.  I have never been into the chrome thing but I have always wanted my personal bike to be as dependable and handle as well as possible.  In all honesty I would love to make a change to a SERG or a SESG for the added comfort but the price I would get for mine would be half of what I put into it in just a few short years.  I can't afford to go that route again so my plan is to keep up with the maintenance and get a used second bike for keeping the milage down.  Probably will go for a low mileage Concours or a FJR 1300 or a similar sports touring bike that I can reach the ground.  So far the motor is stock but plan on addressing that the following winter.   So Don do you think it's time to upgrade from my home made milk crate lift to one designed for the job?  Maybe some tools while I'm at it.  Can't say I wasn't creative, when not in use the heavily modified crates (one for the front with a Wheeldock and one for the rear) go up against the wall and make one heck of a storage bin when not in use.   

Again thanks for the advice.       

[Twolanerider]

 when not in use the heavily modified crates (one for the front with a Wheeldock and one for the rear)