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[beefcake]

originally i wanted to do a 120r engine, but they don't have them yet for the water cooled bikes, so i'm looking at trying to squeeze more out of it

so far I have done tman cams, boarzilla 2 into 1, throttle body, injectors, and a dyno tune, making around 105/105 right now

bike runs great, but i'm a hp junkie and want more.

I know cars pretty well, but don't know much about bikes and whats needed.

I talked to fuel moto about their 113 kit,  they would swap the cams and do their work.  they told me should get me about 130 or so wheel with the 113 / head package.   

said crank isn't "needed" at 130 wheel, but much over,  it's not a bad idea.

I also talked to tman and they do a similar package, and also said anything over 113 needs the crank done.

both also suggested a clutch.

I really would like to get over that 130 mark and wanted to get input from guys that know a little more.

local shop suggested an s&s 124,  but I don't know much about those either.

any guidance, suggestions, would be appreciated

[Para Bellum]

quote "local shop suggested an s&s 124,  but I don't know much about those either."

That's an air-cooled engine, so it is in the same category as the 120 (r or st), which you threw out already. 
Are you looking just for HP, or do you also need low end torque to make a bagger rideable?

BTW:  Your profile doesn't show that you have a wet-head bike.

[FLSTFI Dave]

originally i wanted to do a 120r engine, but they don't have them yet for the water cooled bikes, so i'm looking at trying to squeeze more out of it

so far I have done tman cams, boarzilla 2 into 1, throttle body, injectors, and a dyno tune, making around 105/105 right now

bike runs great, but i'm a hp junkie and want more.

Torque seems rather low with your build.  My twin cooled(water) 2015 CVO Road Glide Ultra, with a Fullsac head pipe, baffles and TTS tuner is 113 Torque and 95 HP.  Not sure why your torque is so low.

My mild build 13 CVO, pistons, head work, Throttle body, injectors and HD cam is 124HP 123 torque.

[beefcake]

bike has a  boarzilla on it which really is for 113 or bigger, but with plans on bigger i went with the larger exhaust out of the gate. 

same setup on my 13cvo 110 with a different exhaust was 110/113

once we add the cubes, the boarzilla will shine,  just trying to find out who's best with the water cooled engines

[grc]

With the exception of the heads, it's the same engine as the regular CVO110's so you don't need to worry about finding new solutions just because it's a Twin Cooled bike.  Compression is the same, and the heads are really the same except for the added parts to water cool the exhaust port area.  So look at what others have done in terms of compression, cams, head and intake mods, etc. to get the numbers you're looking for.  If it works for the regular version, it should work the same for the Twin Cooled version.  Assuming a more consistent head temp on the TC engine, you might be able to gain a bit in the tune since detonation should be less of a problem.

Jerry

[Rooster]

bike has a  boarzilla on it which really is for 113 or bigger, but with plans on bigger i went with the larger exhaust out of the gate. 

same setup on my 13cvo 110 with a different exhaust was 110/113

once we add the cubes, the boarzilla will shine,  just trying to find out who's best with the water cooled engines

If you have a longer inseam probably no issue. But if you are on the short side such as myself The rear cylinder pipe sticks out enough that if you don't watch it can burn the back of your right leg. Trust me I have the scars to prove it. If I was making that choice now I would go with the new Drago 2-1 as the rear cylinder pipe tucks in nicely enough my issue may not be one.

[Mr. Warlock]

If you have a longer inseam probably no issue. But if you are on the short side such as myself The rear cylinder pipe sticks out enough that if you don't watch it can burn the back of your right leg. Trust me I have the scars to prove it. If I was making that choice now I would go with the new Drago 2-1 as the rear cylinder pipe tucks in nicely enough my issue may not be one.

Hey Rooster, except for the softail version, they changed that, the rear pipe no longer sticks out like it used to. I have one of those scars too.

[RayG]

You may wish to consider contacting Steve at GMR.  Steve has done work for some members building some impressive 113's & is quite familiar with the S&S 124 crate motors.  If he is to far he can recommend a good shop that is closer.  Their are other sources on this forum that have great reputations for worked performed for members on this site.  Make sure you completely understand what your builder is going to do, get it in writing and you should be all set.   I had a S&S 124" crate motor installed in the spring of 2013 to replace a 110.  I had some issues that resulted from me not following my own advice on having things written down,  That was my fault and I had to pay a lot to have it were I wanted.  There are a number of good shops that frequent this site that have excellent reputations to get you where you want to go.  Welding the flywheel may or may not be required but riding style can have just as much impact as a high performance motor.  If you have to open the cases it would be wise to have the crank serviced while it is apart. 

Good Luck