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[brassspike]

First of all, I'm no HD mechanic. I don't consider myself a mechanic at all really. I just like working on my stuff. I've done a fair amount with cars and my previous EVO.
Over the years I have learned a great deal from the members here and have contributed what I can here and there. I hope that has helped someone along the way. The real mechanics will think some of this is really basic but keep in mind some of us have never ventured inside a twin cam.
The problem with lifter failures in the '11 and '12 motors is well documented here. My thanks to those that have given us that information. Without that, some us wouldn't find out until too late.
In my case I decided to do a preemptive strike. and go ahead and replace them. In addition, I chose to replace the inner cam bearings, pushrods, pushrod covers, oil pump, and cam plate. Granted I could have done less replacement, but I wanted to do it "right" and I hated the low hot oil pressure. I knew that these motors are fine with 5 or so pounds at hot idle, but to me, it was worth it to see that needle a little higher. Besides, I figured that a higher pressure at idle might just move a little more oil through the cooler.
I started by removing the exhaust, air cleaner, front and rear boards on the right side. No surprises there. The exhaust wrap that I use crumbled as expected. I did find out that DEI has a better product called "titanium" that I used on reassembly. It seems to remain more pliable after heating and does not "stink the place up" while curing under heat.
I removed the cam chest cover, (have something to catch a little oil) removed the pushrod cover locks, moved the covers and cut the pushrods while not under pressure and removed them. I then removed the lifter blocks and lifters. I removed the cam chest, cams and oil pump. No problems.
Here is what I found. The lifters looked fine, cam fine. The only thing that looked worn were the tensioner blocks. Bothe inner and outer were the same. Some slight grooves that didn't look unusual but both had small chunks missing.  HD does not provide service parts so both were replaced. I was not replacing the cams but I did have to remove them to replace the cam plate. Why did I replace the cam plate? I researched and thought the S&S would provide more adjustability and volume so, while in there I went that direction. Same for the oil pump. S&S has a separate pick up for the cam chest and two scavenging rotors. They and other companies say it helps with oil carryover and I hate that so in they went.
I kept the cams in the chain so they stayed in time and the chain remained in the same direction, same with the outer cam chain BTW. I won't bore anyone with the particulars, torq etc. as it s all in the manual or utube. You won't get the washers on the outer part of the plate in the wrong place, they will only go one way. If the new snap ring doesn't go right on the front cam, you have the wrong washer/spacer. Don't bugger up the snap ring if it doesn't fit easily. (don't ask)
I put it all together. Everything in time, chains in the proper direction. I even matched the links to the teeth the cam off from. Some of the AR thing.

[brassspike]

I set the lifters by S&S spec. 4 turns. I turned the motor over and noticed the front exhaust PR cover move! Emailed S&S and was told that the covers need to be cut by 1/2 inch to fit. It would have been nice to have that at least in the paperwork! Pulled the PR's out...again and cut the tubes and flared the tops to avoid any contact with the PR's there. Adjusted valves Again!
Now I had read the instruction at least twice and watched the S&S video several times so I spun the motor, plugs out and in top gear. They said nothing about the effort and I didn't expect the effort to be as high. Remember, I've never done a cam swap in one of these. It would turn but really harder than I was expecting. Crap, did I adjust the lifters wrong? Did I get the timing off? I know that I waited for the pushrods to spin.
Well, if it your first time, you're not sure if you did it right. (remember that?) I tore it back to square one but everything was done correctly. New gaskets everywhere and back to where I was.
If that wasn't enough for me, I decided to check the oil separators so off with the tank. That was no biggie but for heavens sake don't do this if you keep a full tank and have a bad back!
Pulled the covers and checked the oil separators. Even though I change the oil every 3,000 there was some sort of crud at the bottom of one. The hole in the drain back is tiny. There are two so ne was still open. I decided to remove the rocker stands, clean everything and drill the holes out to 1/8. I thought about the possibility that they were designed to develop a high/low pressure in there but research here and elsewhere seemed to say drill baby drill....so I did.
Assembly was pretty straight forward but I did have to make a side extension for my torque wrench to get under the frame on the rear cylinder. Then I had to look up the conversion table for that. It's without saying that you need and inch pound torque wrench...a good one.
As my luck would have it, the battery took a dirt nap at this very time so that had to be replaced. Thanks to dood's post here, I chose the same battery and it spins the snot out of the engine.
The motor seems to run great now. I'm wondering if those old lifters were lazy with hot oil. They sure ticked bad enough. I noticed that S&S wants a little more preload on their lifters, just past half travel. Maybe that is compensating for hot cylinder growth and helping keep things quiet.
My oil pressure is now 25 at cold idle and drops to 20 at idle when hot although not extremely hot. I'll have to wait on that. Good deal! Hot or cold the RDR, running down the road, pressure is 32 and no higher. I did not want really high pressure but was expecting a little higher. Relief is adjustable but pre set at around 40.
That lead me to another aspect of my experience. I had emailed S&S with questions about installation and was answered promptly. When I asked about the oil pressure that I could expect at RDR, I got no answer. Still haven't. I decided to call before I put the bike all the way together. Got put through to tech and told the guy that answered what bike etc. I had. I told him that I was pleased with the idle pressure but was wondering what I should be expecting RDR. He seemed to be talking to someone else in the office when he said "get the instructions a read what they say"......Nope, he was talking to ME! I stated that I knew what the instructions said but was wondering if I needed to pull the chest cover and adjust the relief. He said that "if I wanted to go ahead." He asked if I had bought the parts from them. I stated that I had but through one of their dealers. Somehow that determined the level of service I'd get? He said that my motor was not a new build so that would affect oil pressure and I questioned that the OE pump had just come out with the same pressure (actually higher cold oil).
 I didn't pursue the matter because I obviously had the turd of the office on the phone and he was not going to be helpful. Keeping in mind that I had spent close to a grand with the company that writes his paycheck, I'm not impressed with S&S and will likely shop elsewhere next time. Customer service really sucks in this country!
Its still early so I'm not counting all my chicks just yet and I'll report back after a few hundred miles.

[brassspike]

last one

[brassspike]

OOPS Missed one!

[dlg]

Great write up!!

What am I looking for in the previous picture.

THx

[brassspike]

Some sort of crud in the left lower and over the drain hole at the bottom of the recess.
Thanks

[DCFIREMANN]

PIKE POLE!!!!! Remember it's not ALWAYS about pressure. It's ALWAYS about volume. You may be getting much better volume with less pressure. Don't sweat it. Wait till you ride it a few hundred miles. Then check the pressures again. Also NEVER think your gauge is correct. It may be off a few LBS. either way. The really one way to check it is with a mechanical gauge. If your low oil light doesn't come on and the motor is quiet ( which I bet it is) you are good to go. Now RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[brassspike]

Here is a little update.
After about 50 miles I changed the oil. The motor is much quieter. I can still hear the mechanical noise of the valve train but that annoying tap is gone! After all it is air cooled and there is a lot of metal moving in there. At cruise today it was really quiet! did some stop and go today and got the oil temp pretty warm. Oil pressure was around 20 at idle and 30 at speed. I guess that idle pressure is mostly bypassing but it makes me feel better that oil is moving anyway. Woo Hoo! 
Along with the parts replaced above, I changed out the plugs and the O2 sensors. I have ridden it out west in the mountains and had a problem with spark knock. I had used octane booster on those trips and had heard form a good source that the booster would ruin my 02 sensors.
Motor runs real smooth now and seems to build power much faster and pulls nice. I guess it just my imagination because I've done nothing to improve performance.
Let you know what's going on as time goes on.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

On the S&S tube kits , just do not use the inner part from the kit   re -use your old ones and move one simple .  3.5 turns is more than enough , I really do not understand the re them down further myth... The lifter just has to have some depression.

The S&S set up does not have the high pressure you see in other kits. But idle pressure is very stable and so is normal riding.. Extra pressure means the pump has to work harder..  No real reason for more than 30-35 PSI .. The HD engine is by far a roller set up . You have a few plain bearings , but not like a car..  pretty tough really . 

[brassspike]

Bike had been very quiet. Just got it back from having the compensator done and.....now its noisy. Could be me just listening too close but I guess I'll pop the pushrod tubes and check for a bent pushrod. It did get a test ride and the new 30 tooth does let her spin up pretty fast. It's actually still quiet on the right side. The noise is on the left side, I would guess where the rockers contact the valve.
Anyone got any ideas?

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

You had a non comp 30 tooth sprocket installed ( evo ind ) ?? Or a 30 tooth front pulley

[brassspike]

You had a non comp 30 tooth sprocket installed ( evo ind ) ?? Or a 30 tooth front pulley

30 tooth front pulley. Had that done while in for the compensator on ESP. Picked it up and was charged for the inner and outer labor twice. Once for the ESP to pay and second time for the pulley. Sweet, double dipped! Either that or it took 4 hours labor to remove the back tire and swing arm!? When questioned about the charges was told that ESP doesn't pay enough. Discussion ensued. I'll be going to the owner on this one.
We need more good independents in this area. This dealer thing is out of hand.

As for the noise, it seems to be a little better or I'm getting used to it. I'm still going to check the preload on the pushrods to make sure they will spin but not loose.