Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[trippy]

Hi all,

Would like to upgrade my standard clutch (HYD 2007 CVO Road King), for the A+S clutch pack , does anyone know if it will fit?

Part numbers for the clutch basket are the same, only parts that appear to be different are the judder ring and seat.

Harley say only 2011 onwards, but have fitted many parts to my bike that are not supposed to fit!

Many thanks.

[trippy]

Don't think I explained it to well there,

I want to use the original clutch basket on my 07 cvo road king (only part number I can find 37817-07), use it with the A+S HUB (37000083)with its discs and plates etc,  the only part number I see has changed is the pushrod (changed from 36833-07 to 37000218), and has gone from a one piece design to a two piece design.

Checked the part numbers for the locking ring and bearing and they match so hub will fit in place on the basket, and that the spines are the same so will fit on transmission output shaft.

So apart from the change in pushrod from one piece to two piece, I can`t see any reason why it will not fit and work,

Any thoughts?

[trippy]

I think what I need to know now is.......


How long is the pushrod from my 07 compared to the length of the pushrod on an A+S hyd clutched bike, also how much pushrod travel is there on my 07 compared to a A+S bike!!

Anyone have that info?   

Thanks.

[grc]

I had a Harley drawing comparing the old clutch to the new A&S clutch that showed all the parts that were different, and I've been searching for it but can't seem to find it.  I wish I could answer your questions, but my memory just isn't good enough to trust on something like this.  Btw, I think you're the first person to ever want to change the original style clutch to an A&S.  There have been many who wanted to do the opposite however.

Jerry

[skratch]

is this what you were looking for?  it was in the 2013 my tech forum.

[skratch]

and.....

[grc]

That's it.  Thanks.

Jerry

[trippy]

Hi guys,

Thanks for that,

I know there were a lot of concerns about the A+S clutch when it first came out, but I was under the impression that most of those had been dealt with, also I believe many went with the AIM VP-SDR upgrade which corrected the faults that were raised?

My main reason for wanting to change to it was basically, had to spend £1200 ($1500) on bottom end rebuild, crank truing/S&S crank pin/Timken case bearings etc, and have been looking for anything that would help stop the same from happening in the future!

My builder did say in his opinion that with the work done it is unlikely the crank would go out of true again, but better safe than sorry?

Am happy to be convinced no need to go with the A+S, am now 113cu running about 115hp/120Ftlbs, do you think my standard CVO clutch will hold up?,  bearing in mind haven't had the throttle body upgraded yet, going to have it opened up from 50 to 54mm with 5.3 injectors, so after a tune am expecting 120-125hp and 130ftlbs!

Many thanks

Ride safe.

[grc]

The clutch isn't what caused the lower end of the engine to need all that work, and changing the clutch over to something else like the A&S won't increase the reliability of the lower end.  If you find your stock clutch won't handle the power your upgrades generate, I think you would be much better off upgrading to a good aftermarket clutch such as a Barnett or others.  The A&S from Harley is a cheaply made substitute for a real clutch upgrade.

Protecting that bottom end from extreme shock loading is the function of the compensator and the rear wheel damper.  A real slipper clutch would also help, but Harley's offering is far from a real slipper clutch.

Jerry

[FlaHeatWave]

Hi guys,

Thanks for that,

I know there were a lot of concerns about the A+S clutch when it first came out, but I was under the impression that most of those had been dealt with, also I believe many went with the AIM VP-SDR upgrade which corrected the faults that were raised?

My main reason for wanting to change to it was basically, had to spend £1200 ($1500) on bottom end rebuild, crank truing/S&S crank pin/Timken case bearings etc, and have been looking for anything that would help stop the same from happening in the future!

My builder did say in his opinion that with the work done it is unlikely the crank would go out of true again, but better safe than sorry?

Am happy to be convinced no need to go with the A+S, am now 113cu running about 115hp/120Ftlbs, do you think my standard CVO clutch will hold up?,  bearing in mind haven't had the throttle body upgraded yet, going to have it opened up from 50 to 54mm with 5.3 injectors, so after a tune am expecting 120-125hp and 130ftlbs!

Many thanks

Ride safe.

IMO the A&S Clutch was implemented to give (some) crankshaft / driveline protection, but is not at all necessary with proper driving habits, not locking up the rear wheel while the clutch is engaged, rev-matching during downshifts.

As far as holding the power,,, bolt on an AIM VP

Just curious, what was the failure in your crankshaft??

[trippy]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the advice, will look at the AIM VP and maybe the extra plate Barnett replacement disc setup.

As mine was a 07 110 I kept an eye on the crank run-out,  checked it every time inside the cam chest , thought I had 3-4 thou run-out, only to find out I had been measuring it wrong, and actually had 12 thou run-out, when  it was stripped by my rebuilder, his advice was to throw it in the bin.

But as I was on a very tight budget and could not afford a new (S+S) crank he said he would have a go and see what he could do with it and managed to get it down to under 2 thou!   So with the S&S crank pin and Timken crankcase bearing hope is it will not shift again.

Thanks for all your help

Ride Safe.

[FlaHeatWave]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the advice, will look at the AIM VP and maybe the extra plate Barnett replacement disc setup.

As mine was a 07 110 I kept an eye on the crank run-out,  checked it every time inside the cam chest , thought I had 3-4 thou run-out, only to find out I had been measuring it wrong, and actually had 12 thou run-out, when  it was stripped by my rebuilder, his advice was to throw it in the bin.

But as I was on a very tight budget and could not afford a new (S+S) crank he said he would have a go and see what he could do with it and managed to get it down to under 2 thou!   So with the S&S crank pin and Timken crankcase bearing hope is it will not shift again.

Thanks for all your help

Ride Safe.

The AIM by itself (with stock spring and plates) should be sufficient. I would give that a try first,, it bolts in through the derby cover.

If you feel Plates are necessary, I highly recommend the Alto Carbonite Kit, as the Alto Kit is designed to work with all the stock components including the judder spring...