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[epzager]

There are some very knowledgeable people on here, and I'm hoping for help/ideas/knowledge from everyone. I have a 2012 CVO Road glide that I have the motor apart on right now...here is the list of items that I am anticipating doing while it's apart and a few options that I am considering:
mild head port clean up/valve job, screamin eagle cam plate/Hi Vol oil pump combo with zipper's tensioners and Axtell oil bypass, manual primary chain tensioner, new compensator if needed, shim rockers for end play if needed, adjustable pushrods, new lifters, new inner cam bearings. I think that was all on the definitely list.

Here is where I am struggling - the original cylinders had been bored 0.010 over at 12k miles due to a wrist pin clip letting loose(is what the dealer tells me), I had a local machine shop measure the pistons and cylinders for me and they say that they can get new rings and hone the cylinders. I'm debating whether I replace just rings or put new higher compression pistons in? So far what I have found for pistons that can be put in are Zipper's 10.9:1 pistons that would allow me to have the cylinders bored to 0.014 over and fit the pistons. I'm not sure if 10.9:1 is going to be to high to run 91-93 octane, also not sure longevity wise how well that will hold up. Otherwise I can re-ring and just bump compression a little with milling the head and a 0.030 head gasket. With Higher compression pistons I was thinking of running the Redshift 576, without the hi comp pistons I was looking at the redshift 587.

That's a lot all at once, but just trying to get some help deciding on a direction. Appreciate any suggestions/ideas from any and all involved. Not trying to spend 6-8k, trying to keep the cost around 3k(ish) lol.

[prodrag1320]

bore them +.060 and go 113".

[FlaHeatWave]

I agree with Kirby, 113 is good bang/buck and many Piston choices available.

What is the Crank run-out??

Is the front Connecting Rod OK??

How many miles on the motor??

[Ironhorse]

Get the crank balanced, trued, welded and pinned.

[sadunbar]

There are some very knowledgeable people on here, and I'm hoping for help/ideas/knowledge from everyone. I have a 2012 CVO Road glide that I have the motor apart on right now...here is the list of items that I am anticipating doing while it's apart and a few options that I am considering:
mild head port clean up/valve job, screamin eagle cam plate/Hi Vol oil pump combo with zipper's tensioners and Axtell oil bypass, manual primary chain tensioner, new compensator if needed, shim rockers for end play if needed, adjustable pushrods, new lifters, new inner cam bearings. I think that was all on the definitely list.

Here is where I am struggling - the original cylinders had been bored 0.010 over at 12k miles due to a wrist pin clip letting loose(is what the dealer tells me), I had a local machine shop measure the pistons and cylinders for me and they say that they can get new rings and hone the cylinders. I'm debating whether I replace just rings or put new higher compression pistons in? So far what I have found for pistons that can be put in are Zipper's 10.9:1 pistons that would allow me to have the cylinders bored to 0.014 over and fit the pistons. I'm not sure if 10.9:1 is going to be to high to run 91-93 octane, also not sure longevity wise how well that will hold up. Otherwise I can re-ring and just bump compression a little with milling the head and a 0.030 head gasket. With Higher compression pistons I was thinking of running the Redshift 576, without the hi comp pistons I was looking at the redshift 587.

That's a lot all at once, but just trying to get some help deciding on a direction. Appreciate any suggestions/ideas from any and all involved. Not trying to spend 6-8k, trying to keep the cost around 3k(ish) lol.

I would consider the S&S camplate/oil pump kit.  There is no advantage to the SE camplate over the stock camplate.  I have tried the Axtell Oil Bypass, and while it works as advertised when functioning properly, I had repeated problems with it sticking.  Axtell replaced it once with a new "coated" plunger and cylinder, only to have the problem repeat.  The fact they replaced the first piece with a "coated" piece tells me it's been a problem for them.

I would consider installing AV&V or Kibblewhite beehive valve springs.  I would consider a camshaft with gentle ramps and not go wild with lift.  You can get a lot of suggestions from the crowd here on cams.  Whatever cams you chose, they need to be compatible with your piston/compression choice.  Careful of compression.  Heat comes with compression, especially with a dicey cam choice.  Valve spring and camshaft suggestions are to reduce strain on your lifters.  The most important aspect of your cylinders (in my opinion) is the quality of the shop doing the work.  Straight, round and properly sized is important!  Easier said then done.  Inspect your crank and connecting rods.  If they need work, you will blow your budget quickly...

Good luck and have fun with!



https://www.sscycle.com/oil-pumps-cam-plates/