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[TallyClassic]

I have short arms and really have to reach to get to the handlebars.  I replaced my seat with a Mustang so I could reach the ground, but still had to move the backrest all the way forward to get it to touch my backside.
When in cruise and I can relax my hands, the most comfortable position seems to be just after the first knuckle on my fingers.  It's also much nicer to not be sitting so close to the windshield, it might plant my butt in the back of the seat better too.
The stealer,(literally) says $800 to change my bars    You gotta be kidding.  Sure I understand that new braided lines need to be bought, but six hours labor?   [smiley=confused5.gif]

I guess our 1 1/4" bars have special sized riser and we cannot use the ones stepped down to 1" like most aftermarket mfrs do.  Probably easier to just change the risers?  Also, there needs to be a notch on both handlebars to clear the hydraulics.

Where do you find these type bars?

[Twolanerider]

Wild 1 and Flanders both have bars that folks here have used.  And the stock clamp is what's used, even with the bigger diameter Wild1 bars.  You can also get them pre-punched for the left side hydraulics.  The Wild1 bars I used brought the bars a couple of inches closer to me with the grips at a much more comfortable angle too.  It's been awhile since I changed them.  But if memory serves correctly I think it took a little over 4 hours.  

[TallyClassic]

Were you able to do it yourself?  I have the ability, I used to take all the plastic off my GL1200 during the winter.  I had hoped this was a DIY project.
Any chance you remember the part #??   [smiley=banana.gif]

[Bungy]

I just finished changing mine to Flanders, + 2" rise & 2" pullback. Had to change out the front brake line, everything else fit fine. Took the better part of a day, but I work slow & that included running to the dealer!

[Twolanerider]

Were you able to do it yourself?

[Screamin_Beagle]

I've done a zillion sets of bars and can tell you first hand,  If the throttle cables, brake lines and clutch line need to be changed.........IT's 6 HOURS.  I know it sounds like a lot,  but everyone of my buddies that have asked me to do it for them,  stop by in the morning and have made lunch plans with the navaguesser some where.....it always happens,  you got the whole thing apart, and then the phone call comes ("where are you honey??What do you mean you not coming to Fu Fu's bistro for flaming rasberry crepes",  "oh,  your at _Beagles drinking beer again.......Sure your working on the bike.....you only putting different handlebars on it....how long can that take".  Take it from someone who knows....it 6 hours.

Good luck with the project......please post some pics when your done.....

All the best
_Beagle [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=cherry.gif]

[Fatboy]

 The best part of the job is cutting, pulling & reassembling the wire's and connector's.  

 Didn't someone here mention a wire harness extention kit that's now available to help streamline the process?  [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

 That would be the ticket!  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[naitram]

there was a write up on a kit in the last issue of sleazyriders

[MObe]

If you do the wild 1's wo575 or the flanders 2 up and 2 back you won't need to extend the wiring, just the front brake line. On my bike with either one of these bars I had to move the throttle cables from their routing through the grommet in the fairing to the area where the brake line runs, (coming out of the side of the switch cap), if I didn't do it that way my throttle pull off cable would not stay seated in the cruise control defeat switch. Others have been able to make the same change and leave the original throttle cable routing. In any case I haven't done either of these bars or heard of anyone who has used either of these bars who has had to extend the wires. I have so far done 4 sets of bars on the SEEG's, all required the longer front brake line, regardless of what the wild 1's salesman tells you. [smiley=jalapeno.gif]

[grc]

H-D Flat Rate Manual for '05 FLHTCSE2

Replace Handlebars   Labor Code 2206    2.3 hours
Replace Front Brake Lines    Labor Code 2406   1.0 hours

Jerry

[hd-dude]

H-D Flat Rate Manual for '05 FLHTCSE2

Replace Handlebars

[jfh]

If you do the wild 1's wo575 or the flanders 2 up and 2 back you won't need to extend the wiring, just the front brake line. On my bike with either one of these bars I had to move the throttle cables from their routing through the grommet in the fairing to the area where the brake line runs, (coming out of the side of the switch cap), if I didn't do it that way my throttle pull off cable would not stay seated in the cruise control defeat switch. Others have been able to make the same change and leave the original throttle cable routing. In any case I haven't done either of these bars or heard of anyone who has used either of these bars who has had to extend the wires. I have so far done 4 sets of bars on the SEEG's, all required the longer front brake line, regardless of what the wild 1's salesman tells you. [smiley=jalapeno.gif]

MObe - I thought you ended up using the Flanders 715 (+2 back) because the 725s (+2 up and +2 back) were delayed due to to plating problems with the initial batch.  Did you later switch from the 715s to the 725s?

[MObe]

hdfr120:
  Good memory! It's hell gettin' old. You're right I have the 2 back. I have a buddy who put the 2 up and 2 back on his flhtcuse. I think it cost him about $700. The wires did not have to be extended on his bars either, but the tech that did his install said that there was just barely enough wire to hook things up without having to extend the wiring. On his he did have to replace the throttle and clutch cables as well as the brake lines. On mine I only had to replace the brake lines and reroute the throttle cables.