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[MCE]

24d cams - keep your frieght train torque, cool off the engine with some overlap and gain some hp.

With headwork roughly mid 120s with the right combination and work.  .030 headgasket, 0 deck and clean up and deck the heads, pop up pistons, pipe and proper tune etc

CVOSTU and several others have done this combo quite successfully.

Finally: Someone that gets it. You have to have some overlap. 255s have none to speak of so they're
never going to perform. They are tow-truck cams built around emissions and high heat. Throw those things away,
almost anything would be better. Overlap is your friend. (Without it, you'll never be able to make any serious HP)

[georgw221]

Correct,  bolt in simple stage 2. That 570-2 dyno run appears to be a stock 110 correct?

Yes , simple stage 2. Should work nicely with your Pro Pipe.

[HD Street Performance]

The 24 and 150 are 5 or so degrees longer and will offer stronger pull on top with no loss down low if you stay with that small baffle. Not a statement on cam brands, I sell cyclerama. The cr575 would be s closer but still shorter comparison to the other two

[CVO 2015]

Thanks HD Street Performance

I will give you a call on Friday ...I want to pick up a set of lifters from you...Steve at Fullsacs should carry that TTS 150...I will email him and take a ride out to Havesu and grab a set ..

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[Phantom309]

What Harry said!!
Have run the 24d's in both the 110 and the 117 and they have never failed to deliver

Excuse my ignorance, but are the 24d cams available for the 103 also? Did you go gear drive or no? I'm just pipe-dreaming for now and curious. If/when I get around to cams I want good low-end and midrange the most, but would love to have them boost top-end ... however I might really be dreaming to expect all of that. I also like the strong engine braking I have with stock cams so .... Would that extra overlap make that better or worse than present? I would love to go gear drive if my runout would allow it .... I'm not willing to take out a 2nd mortgage to go through what I really should do with the crank. Basically looking for a little better than stock without going crazy when the time comes.

[CVO 2015]

Busarealfast...Here is a pic from Sheffer Performance FB page of the cam you are interested in..I look at my riding style, along with the curve shape of particular pipes (love the early torque in fulsacs), and I like broad flat wide torque curves....I look at how early it crosses 100 ft lbs of torque. , 110 ft lbs and now 120 ft lbs (110 with headwork)...My 15 CVO made 100/116 with a SE 585 cam and pipes (MGS).. Added a 58 mm tb and fullsacs pipes and I gained 10 h.p and lost 2 foot lbs of torque (110/114)My 2012 103 makes 100/116 with Don's (HDSP) headwork and a SE 585 (2nd motor and still under warranty)...Some low compression cams which  have good early to middle torque are TTS 100, CR 570, and S&S 570, Tman 577s..Look at the dyno sheets with your pipe and motor size and see if the curves resemble your riding style and meet your torque and h.p. needs? For midrange and top end add headwork(moderate compression 10.0:1-10.5:1 or so and a cometic headgasket) to TTS 150, CR 575, GMR 577s, SE 585s, S&S 585s, TC 24 D, or Tman 600 or Tman 625s and watch your hp and torque numbers rise or bolt them in and get good midrange..Steve Cole (TTS) did a test of various cams in t.c. 110s of various cams h.p. and torque on the same bike..Numbers were interesting..Fuel Moto did a test on M8 motors (107s and 114s) with various cams...Good luck with whatever cam choice you decide, but remember down the line you may "want a little more."  Good luck with your cam choice, pipe choice, tuner (TTS and Power Vision are the best), builder, dyno tuner, and headwork if you decide..Listen to the experts, and I am not one of them...
Just a frugal long distance performance oriented rider..


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[HD Street Performance]

Good write up but it should be pointed out that a well planned build with matched parts at higher compression and the corresponding cams will not give up anything down low. And still have good manors there too. In other words it is not an either or proposition.

[Yellow09SERG]

Excuse my ignorance, but are the 24d cams available for the 103 also? Did you go gear drive or no? I'm just pipe-dreaming for now and curious. If/when I get around to cams I want good low-end and midrange the most, but would love to have them boost top-end ... however I might really be dreaming to expect all of that. I also like the strong engine braking I have with stock cams so .... Would that extra overlap make that better or worse than present? I would love to go gear drive if my runout would allow it .... I'm not willing to take out a 2nd mortgage to go through what I really should do with the crank. Basically looking for a little better than stock without going crazy when the time comes.

Phantom309,
The 24D would fit in the 103 but I can't comment on how they would work because I have not personally ran them in one. My first guess is they would be a little long for the 103 just due to loss of displacement. Maybe someone else here has used them in that application and can comment.

[CVO 2015]

When I ran the TC 24 Ds in my 2012 103 my dyno numbers were 94/106 with an Arlen Ness Big Sucker  Air cleaner (later replaced by a SE agitator style to match my wheels ) and MGS pipes.. I had ridden with a canned map for the longest until my bike cut off a few times (once in Death Valley) and once headed to Havesu..After that I was a believer in custom maps..That motor went a little over 60k before being replaced under ESP..Then I changed to the SE 585 cams, along with Don's headwork + a cometic. 030 head gasket and got 100/116 on a 103..Headwork to me, proper pipe selection, and a good tune will bring to life just about any cam you choose...I didn't want to add pistons in order to avoid pinging (with a variety of different pump gas available in the US, Canada, and Mexico)and long start up times to let the engine warm up after starts...Again, I am a long distance tourer who prefers torque over h.p

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[CVO 2015]

HD Street Performance...I agree with you 100% and that is why I am gathering parts for my next build on my CVO..I will begin with your Johnson lifters..Then grab the TTS 150 cams, and then when something happens to my motor , send my heads to you, have my local dealer slap at all back together, dyno tune, and vuala...

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[CVO 2015]

My last comment for the day..Time to grab a shower and get ready to go eat some turkey..Happy Thanksgiving Taptalk family! I would have loved to see the shape of these curves and feel the seat of the pants of all of these ..In addition, from my observation some air head CVOs appears to have more torque than the wet heads (this is a wet head bike)...Plus a change in head gasket can get some of these over 120 torque(Steve at Fullsacs did a Tman 600 with a head gasket change)

Test results from Steve Cole when he came out with the TTS 100 cams...Cycle Rama and some Woods grinds, and SE 585 not listed...In summary choose your cam wisely for now and the future (if you are frugal like me)..

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[HD Street Performance]

CVO2015 provides good advice and data. One flaw in the testing method is it is a cam test. This could be seen as clean data because just a cam is swaped. When comparing a 235 deg cam vs a 245 degree cam the drop in corrected compression is significant. So you have a 9.3:1 engine and a cam with say a 30 vs 45 after bottom dead center intake close. The 30 cam is right at home, the 45 sunk due to the low static CR and late intake close. Folks the piston is on it's way up and the valve is hanging open. The 45 needs 10.5 to work properly. So a true clean test would be each cam swap would have an associated compression change in order to keep the dynamic compression equal and of course a retune. Open for debate.

[CVO 2015]

Don, I agree with you, however, I believe Steve's intent was to compare "drop in cams."  Curves, and numbers (intake, exhaust, lift, and duration) were not listed for each cam tested..True builders use the Math to come out with expected numbers (assuming your cam grind is tested to be true)...I am not a mechanic...Therefore, I look at the dyno sheets of my bike with my pipe at my compression or a sheet with the cam and compression of a future build...With headwork torque and horsepower can be adjusted to the riders preference (riding style) of any cam within it's designed compression range...

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[HD Street Performance]

I understand and agree. Pipe is a big factor too. As the overlap increases, stock has almost 0, the pipe choice becomes a more major influence on the shape of and area under the dyno curve and the more important road feel.