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[FLYNDYNA]

By the way, DCFIREMANN-you and I have a mutual friend in "VOON"...no one is allowed to wrench my bike except him and me...

[Chief]

Just left the Harley shop here (Charlotte).
There are two Jesters in the service department with heads and cylinders off the motor.
1 B/O and 1 R/B both with the same problem.
Contact on the rocker box covers and an interesting note, on both motors the gap on the rings were lined up.
Service tech said this was common on the 110's.

And WOW, I have never seen such a short piston. Not much skirt at all.

S
  /
    B

I was told by the SM yesterday that the same was true on mine. All gaps lined up. What's up with that?

[DCFIREMANN]

By the way, DCFIREMANN-you and I have a mutual friend in "VOON"...no one is allowed to wrench my bike except him and me...

FLYNDYNA your bike was one of the 110's that we were talking about.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[WVULTRA]

I was told by the SM yesterday that the same was true on mine. All gaps lined up. What's up with that?

Chief:
If you have to have the rings replaced, be sure an mention the attached to Dealer/Tech.

 

[Smiler]

Glad you got your bike sorted out although those longer hours mean less time on the road unless you comute?

[Chief]

Chief:
If you have to have the rings replaced, be sure an mention the attached to Dealer/Tech.

 

I don't believe any rings were replaced, I assume they were rotated so the ring gaps were staggered properly. That's just an assumption, I wasn't told anything was done about the gaps being aligned.

[FLYNDYNA]

Thanks DCFIREMANN!! The bike now has 2,189 miles on it, and has developed some of the rat-a-tat-tatting with Syn3, so I am switching to mobil1 this weekend before riding at the rear of the pack in Rolling Thunder...We're cutting out and heading to the wall. hope everyone has a great memorial weekend!! P.s., I have not developed the "yellowing" of the badges on the heads...hope it is an indication I am running cool enough. Perhaps the beer drizzling out of my mouth acts as a cooling agent...

[Chief]

Thanks DCFIREMANN!! The bike now has 2,189 miles on it, and has developed some of the rat-a-tat-tatting with Syn3, so I am switching to mobil1 this weekend before riding at the rear of the pack in Rolling Thunder...We're cutting out and heading to the wall. hope everyone has a great memorial weekend!! P.s., I have not developed the "yellowing" of the badges on the heads...hope it is an indication I am running cool enough. Perhaps the beer drizzling out of my mouth acts as a cooling agent...

I'm guessing the noise you hear is because of the vavle springs hitting the rocker boxes. I had the dealer clearance the boxes when they were replacing the head gasket, and it got rid of about 80% of the top-end noise. It was very dramatic before and after. I am very pleased with how quiet the motor is now.

[FLYNDYNA]

Thanks Chief...I'll check in to that this weekend as well-have a great memorial weekend!

[Smiler]

I'm guessing the noise you hear is because of the vavle springs hitting the rocker boxes. I had the dealer clearance the boxes when they were replacing the head gasket, and it got rid of about 80% of the top-end noise. It was very dramatic before and after. I am very pleased with how quiet the motor is now.

Chief - If this is as prevalent as you guys say should do you think it's worth getting the dealership to check the clearance prior to delivery?

[Fired00d]

Chief - If this is as prevalent as you guys say should do you think it's worth getting the dealership to check the clearance prior to delivery?

Dealers have no problem checking it..... On your dime. If there is an issue then warranty may cover it, but if it isn't then you pay.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Chief]

Chief - If this is as prevalent as you guys say should do you think it's worth getting the dealership to check the clearance prior to delivery?

I would suggest cranking it up at the dealership before taking delivery and getting a stethoscope, wooden dowel, or other listening implement and listen to the back side of the rocker boxes. It's the intake valve that is causing the problem. If it's hitting, you'll know it. If they hear it, I would think they would gladly check it out. It is very obvious when you can look inside the rocker box.

Sure made a difference in mine, getting it clearanced.

[happyman]

Got the bike out this morning... sunny and 78. Rode for about an hour between 45 and 55 mph. on some back roads. I slowed down to 25 in a small village and continued my way through. As I started to get back up to speed, I hit around 2950 RPM and the motor siezed. This caused the rear tire to lock up and I lost control and dumped the bike. I'm fine, just a few cuts and scrapes and a broken finger.

I got it towed to the dealership and went home. They called me about 30 minutes ago and told me the rear jug got too hot and scorched the cylinder walls. This caused the piston to lock up. I was told that the mixture was too lean and that was caused by several WOT attempts. It will not be covered under warrantee. The tank smashed, the pipes are flat, triple-tree broken and a front spoke broken.

I never have "attempted" a WOT due to it being in the break-in stage. It's automatically my fault. I'm sick of being treated like this. I give up.

          DanaSour,
Happy your not hurt bad. sorry you have a dealer that makes such bs assumptions.. i have a 07 CVO and did a baseline dyno run and it shows  AFR at wide open throttle.. its after 27 hundred  at wot it has the proper afr. right at about 13.5 then it foes to 13.0 at 4 grand then it goes a little up at say 13.2 and then at 5 grand its at 13.5 almostand then at 52 hundred or so it drops  to 12.6 so in reality this dude that told you th eline of chit about wide open throttle is not the brightest star in the sky.. most 110" CVo's  do this at wot.. thats the stock ones like mine is.. so in reality its running richer at wot than anywhere else. at crusing speeds this thing is  lean as hell at 15- 16 on the afr.. tht  will smoke a motor in a heartbeat. if your in hot weather and other conditions are right..  itsboiling the thing so by running it wot  would be doing it a favor..  don't let um  pull the  crap on ya..   you just need to be very very firm and in reality i would just let an attorney do the  taking for me .. i would give  them one chance and no  debate.. new bike,, pay the medical.. lost wages some for pain and suffering and  they apoligize.. if not   walk away and  do what ya got to do..   best of luck  make it right.
                   Happy

[strohkr]

Check out www.nightrider.com
He's got a fix for the bike running too hot at idle and cruise - read all about it. His kits should be out sometime in June. He told me in the meatime to just disconnect the O2 sensors and that should solve the hot condition at idle/cruise. I'm gonna do just that.
If you have any questions feel free to ask him - he provided me with a wealth of information.
Here's what he told me.......


"We are in the process of finalizing a Wide Band O2 sensor upgrade for the
OEM HD O2 sensors that would force the engine to operate in closed loop mode
at a richer air fuel ratio. Richer air fuel ratios in closed loop mode will
significantly reduce the exhaust temperature and improve throttle response.
The AFR the engine will run at is fully programable by using a personal
computer. This upgrade can be applied to any 07 bike by removing the old O2
sensors and installing the upgrade.

We will notify you when our upgrade is available. Cost will be under $250.
The planned release date for the upgrade is June 10.

The kit will consist of a single Wide Band O2 sensor to replace the two
sensors used by the OEM ECU. Installation consists of removing the OEM O2
sensors, install the WBO2 sensor in the front cylinder, install a plug in
the rear cylinder, locate the control box under the seat, connect the O2
signal wires to the HD wiring harness and connect to power.

The upgrade are fully compatible with any 06 stock Dyna, all stock 07 HD's,
all HD "Stage" downloads and with SE Race Tuner, although no other HD
product is required to use our upgrade.

I know exactly what is going on with your engine. The engine went into a
high temperature mode. The ECU usually idles at a very lean (and hot) 14.7:1
in closed loop mode. Normal idle speed is 1050. In high temp mode the engine
RPMs drops to 950 and the ECU goes out of closed loop mode to richen the
fuel mixture to 12:1 in an attempt to cool the engine off. But as soon as
the engine RPMs hits 1200, the ECU goes back to closed loop mode at 14.7:1
which is too lean, it drives engine temperature even higher and the engine
stumbles.

During testing of our testing I was able to capture the stock engine/ECU
behavior with my test instruments. The OEM engine will go into this "high
heat" mode in about 10 minutes of idling at 78 degree ambient temperatures
in shady conditions. Exhaust pipe temperature will get as high as 800F
degrees about 6" from the cylinder heads. Temperatures measured by IR
Thermometer at the heat shield were 194+ degrees.

With the WBO2 upgrade in place under the same conditions, exhaust pipe
temperatures were 100F degrees cooler after 15 minutes of idle and the ECU
never went into high temperature mode. Temperatures at the heat shields were
a little over 150 degrees, or 40 degree drop.

If you want to wait for the LC1 upgrade, don't have time to get it installed
right now or your Dealer isn't willing to install it, here is a quick trick
that will improve matters. Just disconnect the O2 sensors from the wiring
harness. Just follow the O2 wiring from the sensor about 8 inches to its
quick disconnect. Pull the connections for both O2 sensors. The ECU really
doesn't complain too much. The engine runs a little rich and fuel mileage
will suffer, but the engine will not be near as prone to overheating.

> Just let me know what you want to do. We are here to help riders.
>
>
> Stephen Mullen
> www.Nightrider.com

[Smiler]

Check out www.nightrider.com
He's got a fix for the bike running too hot at idle and cruise - read all about it. His kits should be out sometime in June. He told me in the meatime to just disconnect the O2 sensors and that should solve the hot condition at idle/cruise. I'm gonna do just that.
If you have any questions feel free to ask him - he provided me with a wealth of information.
Here's what he told me.......


"We are in the process of finalizing a Wide Band O2 sensor upgrade for the
OEM HD O2 sensors that would force the engine to operate in closed loop mode
at a richer air fuel ratio. Richer air fuel ratios in closed loop mode will
significantly reduce the exhaust temperature and improve throttle response.
The AFR the engine will run at is fully programable by using a personal
computer. This upgrade can be applied to any 07 bike by removing the old O2
sensors and installing the upgrade.

We will notify you when our upgrade is available. Cost will be under $250.
The planned release date for the upgrade is June 10.

The kit will consist of a single Wide Band O2 sensor to replace the two
sensors used by the OEM ECU. Installation consists of removing the OEM O2
sensors, install the WBO2 sensor in the front cylinder, install a plug in
the rear cylinder, locate the control box under the seat, connect the O2
signal wires to the HD wiring harness and connect to power.

The upgrade are fully compatible with any 06 stock Dyna, all stock 07 HD's,
all HD "Stage" downloads and with SE Race Tuner, although no other HD
product is required to use our upgrade.

I know exactly what is going on with your engine. The engine went into a
high temperature mode. The ECU usually idles at a very lean (and hot) 14.7:1
in closed loop mode. Normal idle speed is 1050. In high temp mode the engine
RPMs drops to 950 and the ECU goes out of closed loop mode to richen the
fuel mixture to 12:1 in an attempt to cool the engine off. But as soon as
the engine RPMs hits 1200, the ECU goes back to closed loop mode at 14.7:1
which is too lean, it drives engine temperature even higher and the engine
stumbles.

During testing of our testing I was able to capture the stock engine/ECU
behavior with my test instruments. The OEM engine will go into this "high
heat" mode in about 10 minutes of idling at 78 degree ambient temperatures
in shady conditions. Exhaust pipe temperature will get as high as 800F
degrees about 6" from the cylinder heads. Temperatures measured by IR
Thermometer at the heat shield were 194+ degrees.

With the WBO2 upgrade in place under the same conditions, exhaust pipe
temperatures were 100F degrees cooler after 15 minutes of idle and the ECU
never went into high temperature mode. Temperatures at the heat shields were
a little over 150 degrees, or 40 degree drop.

If you want to wait for the LC1 upgrade, don't have time to get it installed
right now or your Dealer isn't willing to install it, here is a quick trick
that will improve matters. Just disconnect the O2 sensors from the wiring
harness. Just follow the O2 wiring from the sensor about 8 inches to its
quick disconnect. Pull the connections for both O2 sensors. The ECU really
doesn't complain too much. The engine runs a little rich and fuel mileage
will suffer, but the engine will not be near as prone to overheating.

> Just let me know what you want to do. We are here to help riders.
>
>
> Stephen Mullen
> www.Nightrider.com

This is probably what everyone on the site has been looking for - I found this very interesting, thanks for posting
One question though, Does this mean we no longer need to add a SERT