Hank, Beagle's brother in law recently had his 2001 88" RK upgraded to a 95" with Dave Mackie headwork, pistons and cams. The bike has the original M&M EFI and ignition with a brand new PCIII installed. The bike idles like a Swiss watch, runs up through the gears sweet so long as you keep it below 4,000 RPM. The second you jump on it and rev it hard, it stumbles and breaks down. The shop that did the work had said the clutch was gone so yesterday I installed an 03 P/N Screamin Eagle clutch pack. Word to the wise here - - - inspect your old clutch before you drop the new plates in an oil bath. I got the old clutch out and it turned out to be a 98 P/N Screamin Eagle clutch, it had the damper spring and damper spring seat, but also had 9 friction plates and 8 steel plates. I would estimate that there was still 1/3rd of the life of this clutch left. Anyway, too late since the new one was soaking in oil so out comes the old. I've said before that the H-D Tech Writers are peverse bastards. The paperwork that comes with the new clutch pack refers you to the shop manual on installing the new plates. Sooooooooo I pull out all of the old friction and metal plates, leaving the damper spring and damper spring seat still in the clutch shell. Nope, nada, nyet, won't fit, too many plates. So sitting there with my hands dripping with oil, I look at the tech sheet Oh yeah, way over on the left at the bottom is a by the way, you have to remove the damper spring and damper spring seat EVEN THOUGH the bastards had originally said to follow the shop manual instructions. Morale of story, is if you upgrade your 03 SERK clutch to the later in the year 03 SE clutch pack, follow the shop manual PLUS the tech sheet. So anyway, back to why I posted this thread. Obviously we've got a clutch now that ain't gonna slip. The new one's rated for 125 ftlbs of TQ, but Hank's bike flat out feels like it just is starving for gas when you get on it hard. Anyone want to explain what the tuner did or didn't do here ?
Thanks
B B