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[Fired00d]

That's if they make a flash for your bike. There are no flash maps for '07's or '08's. SERT or another ECM "writeover" program is the only way to have your stock ECM be good as a backup if the PC fails. It's much cheaper to get a spare PC to have with you, than it is to get the SERT also, and then have that tuned too!

Hoist!

You wouldn't have to get it re-tuned if you have a copy of your map. The maps are fairly small files (mine is 88kb), and I keep a copy of it on a web based email account I have, and I also put a copy on a disk when traveling. If my SERT or ECM would have to be replaced then I would only have to have the map loaded and wouldn't require another tune.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[grc]

Don't know if any of you have tried this, but I read a thread on another site. A guy running a PCIII recommended that after you get you bike to where you want it, have the stock ECU flashed by Harley with the closest flash to your build, then add the PCIII back and get your final tune on this setup. That way if you did ever have a problem with the PCIII, being a piggyback system, you could just unplug it and would be in the ballpark with the stock ECU to get you home. Sounds good to me, if you can get a flash that is close to what your running.

Talon,

That is the method many of us with just stage 1 mods use, get the H-D stage 1 calibration first, then add the PC.  The problem comes when you do major mods that have no corresponding H-D calibration.  You can still run (poorly) with the stock calibration, but depending on your mods you probably wouldn't want to go very far to prevent damaging your engine.

Before people go crazy over worrying about this stuff, you need to understand that the average failure rate for electronic boxes like ECM's, PC's, etc. is very, very low.  As in less than 1%.  And I definitely wouldn't let the "possibility" of a failure keep me from choosing a PC.  Carry your map on disk or flash drive at all times.  If you have a rare PC failure, buy another one and load your map.  PC's can be found in lots of places all over the country, and most shops and dealerships have the software.  Or for that matter, as cheap as flash drives are you could load the entire program on it as well as your map and then just keep it somewhere on the bike.

I don't think I would let certain dealers unwillingness/inability to work on aftermarket tuning devices keep me from using the device I want.  And I sure wouldn't let them force me into overpaying for a SERT if that wasn't my first choice of tuning device.  The issue in the first post of this thread isn't necessarily a problem with the choice of aftermarket tuning device; it sounds more to me like a dealership with no diagnostic talent using it as an excuse.  The same place may very well have been unable to diagnose the problem even if it occurred on a totally stock bike.

Jerry

[Midnight Rider]

Talon,

That is the method many of us with just stage 1 mods use, get the H-D stage 1 calibration first, then add the PC.  The problem comes when you do major mods that have no corresponding H-D calibration.  You can still run (poorly) with the stock calibration, but depending on your mods you probably wouldn't want to go very far to prevent damaging your engine.

Before people go crazy over worrying about this stuff, you need to understand that the average failure rate for electronic boxes like ECM's, PC's, etc. is very, very low.  As in less than 1%.  And I definitely wouldn't let the "possibility" of a failure keep me from choosing a PC.  Carry your map on disk or flash drive at all times.  If you have a rare PC failure, buy another one and load your map.  PC's can be found in lots of places all over the country, and most shops and dealerships have the software.  Or for that matter, as cheap as flash drives are you could load the entire program on it as well as your map and then just keep it somewhere on the bike.

I don't think I would let certain dealers unwillingness/inability to work on aftermarket tuning devices keep me from using the device I want.  And I sure wouldn't let them force me into overpaying for a SERT if that wasn't my first choice of tuning device.  The issue in the first post of this thread isn't necessarily a problem with the choice of aftermarket tuning device; it sounds more to me like a dealership with no diagnostic talent using it as an excuse.  The same place may very well have been unable to diagnose the problem even if it occurred on a totally stock bike.

Jerry

Jerry...I've got the flash in the ECM as well, with the PCIII on top of it.  It might be a bit lean, but even then, no leaner than it was stock, IMO.  I have no way to back this statement up, but I would think the failrure rate of the actual ECM is extremely small, even smaller than that of a PCIII.  I'm just thinking of other possible alternatives to a permanent load to the ECM, and from things I've heard, the Direct Link is a good alternative, IF you can find a good tuner.  They have tuning centers in most states, from what I've read.  I carry a CD now, and the software is easily downloadable from the Dynojet website.

[Talon]

I haven't made any changes yet, was going SERT, but don't like/trust the dealers in my area, then TMAT, changed my mind, but I found two tuners, still checking them out, that do PCIII. So if all goes well, this winter I'll probably go PCIII.

[Midnight Rider]

I haven't made any changes yet, was going SERT, but don't like/trust the dealers in my area, then TMAT, changed my mind, but I found two tuners, still checking them out, that do PCIII. So if all goes well, this winter I'll probably go PCIII.

Talon...I'm not suggesting that you use this, but it might be worth considering, and there are two tuning centers in CO.

http://www.technoresearch.com/Tuning_Centers/Colorado.htm

[Talon]

High Country HD is the better of the two HD dealers in my immediate area, but still have heard mixed reviews of their tuning. If I went SERT I'd probably go with them. I'll look at the other SR-Tuning, they are about two hours away, not bad if there's no issues, don't have to go back, thanks for the info TCnBham.

[dejavo]

Please note, when I started this thread My intention was not to bad mouth pc, tmax etc. This was intended as a heads up to people like myself who ride crosscountry on a regular basis rather then crosstown or bar to bar. MANY Harley dealers are either inept or unwilling to work on anything thats not Harley. Clearly many of the other systems are IMHO superior to Harley. When you are thousands of miles from home with no fix available and the town has no rental rooms available at any price for 2-3 days it sucks. Hence my reluctant switch to the race tuner. Also I should point out that in the case of daytona twin tech they offer absolutly positively NO product support whatsoever!!!

[vagabond6542]

Please note, when I started this thread My intention was not to bad mouth pc, tmax etc. This was intended as a heads up to people like myself who ride crosscountry on a regular basis rather then crosstown or bar to bar. MANY Harley dealers are either inept or unwilling to work on anything thats not Harley. Clearly many of the other systems are IMHO superior to Harley. When you are thousands of miles from home with no fix available and the town has no rental rooms available at any price for 2-3 days it sucks. Hence my reluctant switch to the race tuner. Also I should point out that in the case of daytona twin tech they offer absolutly positively NO product support whatsoever!!!

I am presently looking at TM/AT myself.  From my inquiries with Zippers, I don't think there is a problem in using it for long distance. But I'll find out soon.
Just my "two cents"