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[Twolanerider]

However....

They have a rev limiter.  Nowhere in the owner's manual does it say "don't grenade your motor."  It says to keep fluids at proper levels and a variety of other things that define abuse.  If those things have been done and it still comes apart while he's riding it is still a warranty failure.  And good luck to them trying to make it stick otherwise.

[Hoist!]

However....

They have a rev limiter.  Nowhere in the owner's manual does it say "don't grenade your motor."  It says to keep fluids at proper levels and a variety of other things that define abuse.  If those things have been done and it still comes apart while he's riding it is still a warranty failure.  And good luck to them trying to make it stick otherwise.

Thank you Don. If I Don't put it on a track and maintain it according to their requirements, which I've always done more than they ask, then I'm entitled to ride it as it was supoosed to be ridden. If it breaks, it's on their dime. You're not giving me a bike with a 5800 RPM limit and telling me to ride it at 2500 RPM. Today is F with Howie Day, I guess. So I'll leave it at that! But you're all FOS if you think I don't know WTF I'm talking about. I'm starting to wonder about some of you these days! Hoist!

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Two things are going on. One there is no timken bearing to stop the crank from walking. ( that may or may not be the issue) That will cause the problem second a pinion that is " out of spec" can be great helped with a new style cam plate. This will help in the oil airation problem, misting, and it will hold the pinion in place. As well there is a true bearing surface for the cams. We use the R&R cam plate/ timing cover and it works extrmely well and stop the issues I have listed and a few others such as cam walk, cam plate wear, and plate flex.

[Hoist!]

Two things are going on. One there is no timken bearing to stop the crank from walking. ( that may or may not be the issue) That will cause the problem second a pinion that is " out of spec" can be great helped with a new style cam plate. This will help in the oil airation problem, misting, and it will hold the pinion in place. As well there is a true bearing surface for the cams. We use the R&R cam plate/ timing cover and it works extrmely well and stop the issues I have listed and a few others such as cam walk, cam plate wear, and plate flex.

Thanks GMR. Appreciate your input. Unfortunately, why buy a new bike with a factory w.....ty, if you must do this yourself and in doing so, void that w.....ty in the process. Surely we can split the cases, do a Timkin Conversion, weld the Flywheels, and reassemble a good solid bottom end. The do the top end and cam chest as you say. Wow, what a concept. Actually build a good, solid, reliable motor! If this is what it takes to get one, then we are getting scammed buying these CVO bikes in the first place. There is no answer and you'll never hear the factory say we have a deficiently engineered and manufactured engine. But time will prove all. I bleed Orange and Black and have it Tatoo'ed on my body. But if this thing can not be rectified, I'd have no choice but to sell it and build a real Aftermarket CVO that will blow away anything they can do. I'd never buy another HD again. I'm hoping they can resolve these issues to my basic satisfaction. I know the bottom end will always be a weak link until it comes time to split the cases and do it right. But these other nuisance things should get resolved. If I have to worry about going on a trip with this bike, I don't need this bike at all. HD would have lost a very long term, loyal, die-hard customer who would go Aftermarket completely, and never return. I hope it's the former rather than the latter! Hoist!

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I agree that it should have been better and HD could have done the bottom end stonger, but they did not so issue's are they lurking waiting to rear their ugly head. And the work I spoke of will and void the warranty. We do this work for several HD dealers so if they are doing it no reason you cannot. And really adding a improved bearing is not going to cause any issue other than the ear to ear grin each time you wick the throttle.

As I said we do many of these mild builds and have gottne extremely good results with very little money invested. I have said this before and will say it again there is much more in the engine  and with a little investment you will see very good gains

[Rooster]

GMR, on a cvo 110 motor if you are changing pistons and cams already how much more labor is involved in changing to the timkin bearing. And if runout is within spec should the bearing be changed anyway?

[Hoist!]

GMR, on a cvo 110 motor if you are changing pistons and cams already how much more labor is involved in changing to the timkin bearing. And if runout is within spec should the bearing be changed anyway?

Rooster, changing pistons and cams and any head work is "Top End" stuff. This is done without splitting the cases or removing the engine. To do a Timkin conversion, you have to remove the engine, take everything apart, split the cases, then do the Timkin conversion. You'd want to balance and weld the Flywheels at that point too. You're talking a complete engine job, as opposed to Top End work. I'm not saying it's not the right way to do the job, but they're 2 different jobs! I don't think I'd do the bottom end work until something goes wrong down there. But once inside, you'd be crazy not to do the Timkin conversion and weld the flywheels! Hoist!

[bc]

... And the work I spoke of will and void the warranty.

My solution is to ride the 1st year close to stock (basically exhaust and tune), then let RR Cycles have at it (ported/flowed heads plus a cam plate upgrade at a minimum).  They provide a 1-year warranty on their engine work.  Basically I come out about the same as far as coverage goes.

bc

[Kpasa]

Ok, keep us up to date on it. If this happens again we all need to start thinking "class action" !!!

I have been remiss in reporting back, I now have 2,500 mi since the replacement and the new 110 is running great!.   Oddly, one difference is that this engine seems to be running cooler.  Noticeably cooler.

I don't know why that would be, unless the out of tolerance pinion generated friction which converts to heat.  Anyway, all's well in Colorado (for now!)   

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Yes you have to pull the engine split the case as stated previous. One thing that I would do 100% is balance the crank . If you are chaning pistons (weights) I look at it as a must do item. The timken upgrade is a rather simple item to do. There a many place that offer the service. So if you plan on it make sure they are using a steel insert not an aluminum version. HD tried this on eraly evos did not work then still does not work. i know that many have had this don and have the aluminum insert and they are working fine but with cast case's that are stock it is any ones guess how much case exspansion you will get. The steel is the only way to go in my opinion. You do not want to have to do this again. What happens is the insert expands too much and the race comes loose and will spin, at that point it is all done game over. Even if the crank is true balancing will ensure the engine is smooth and will give you longer life. These 110 have plenty in them and if you are going to do the build for the extra power then I would do the entire engine.

Again i know that many have some hot 110 out there but it is no secret that there are many that have had lower end trouble. 

I have seen where many weld the flywheels, with the use of a pro plug that is not needed in fact we no longer weld them at all. We do not need to, I use Dark horse crank works to do all of our crank work. We have never had any issue's by not welding. Welding the pin is one way but once done you are adding weight that you have to counter as well if you have to rebuild the crank for whatever reason the welding cause's more problems after the fact. A pro plug in the end of a new crank pin increase's the press fit and we have not had one come loose. From mild 95's to the 131 kits that we build. We go as far as checking the after market cranks as they seem to be all over the place for balance factor, side clearance, pinion run out. It sucks that a NIB crank from S&S or Jims needs to be re worked but many are not up to the task. A crank that is a good starting point is the cheaper version SE stroker crank. Take it and rework it and you have less invested in it, and once done is a better unit than a Jims Se crank in our opinion.  This is based on the amount of cranks we see that are out of spec NIB,... I called jims to ask on balance factor on the SE crank they make for HD. I was told they set them up for a overal avg of all the pistons that can be used with the crank. So they take all the pistons weights avg them and use that. I guess that is one way of doing it?? I would think a better way would be sell the crank with a matched set of pistons, but that cause's problems too so really just balancing the crank to what you have it the best way.We have used them in engines making some very big numbers with zero failures.

[bpalmersheim]

Class Action Law Suit.  I am going to contact a few attorneys on the 110" issues.