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[Rimjam]

Can't find any info in the service manual on above topic. (Section/page?).  Handlebars just too loose after 78K miles.  Looking it over leads me to believe I might remove the instrument bezel, instrument nacelle, retaining bolts from underneath (using a long extension & wobbly socket), lift the handlebar & risers just enough to slip those new poly bushing right in there.  Am I on the right track?

[Rimjam]

Project completed.  Not as bad as I'd guessed; removal of instrument bevel, ignition switch and instrument nacelle just like the service manual says  -  except  -  outer fairing does not have to be removed unless you're going to completely take the right half of the instrument nacelle off the bike which is unnecessary if you're just replacing the handlebar riser bushings. Nacelle halves can just be laid back out of the way to raise the handlebar(s) & risers enough to slip new bushings in place.  I went with HD poly bushings because the dealership is close & they had them in stock ($50). Instructions in the box were clear & simple, actual install time was probably no more than 20 min with a good wifey helper to hold the bar(s) once the cap screws were removed.  I lubed the new bushings with liquid soap & they slid right in.  I suggest installing the left cap screw first to capture the ground wire eyelet then tighten just enough to be able swing the forks to the left & install the right cap screw. Right side had a large flat washer under the cap screw head which doesn't appear in parts manual but I reused it since I couldn't see that it got in the way of anything. Both cap screws torqued to 40 ft #. Haven't had a chance for a test ride yet to see if vibration level has increased but the bar(s) are definitely more steady. 

[Rimjam]

Ride Report.
Spent the better part of Sunday touring rural Blount Co, Al.  Handlebar vibration level with new poly bushings somewhat higher than rubber below 2000 rpm, especially if you take hands off bars.  Above 2000 no noticeable difference than before. Like a lot of things it's a trade off.

[chaos901]

Going to have to do this on my 2000 SERG, have noticed some additional movement and the bolts seem tight, must be the bushings going.

Also noticed that the Service Manual does not really mention anything about this area.

[Rimjam]

Holes thru the rubber riser bushings had elongated front to rear and cupped metal washers were distorted on mine.  18 years of pushing, pulling, twisting had taken their toll.  Had I been really cheap I could have turned the bushings 90 deg and hammered the washers back into reasonable shape but since it was apart why not fix it right?

[chaos901]

I will get mine up on the table once I get something else off.  I have checked the bolts and they are tight so it almost hast to the bushings.

[Unbalanced]

When you are doing the bushing replacement you might consider the newer 1 piece riser plate .   

[chaos901]

Looking at my parts book I was thinking the riser plate was one piece now.  Will look into that better, thanks.

[Unbalanced]

Hope it is didn’t think they delivered them until 07.

Our 04/05 SEEGs were not 1 piece which is where the bars broke.

[Dan_Lockwood]

You may want to think about urethane bushings versus the original rubber type.  I know on apes they recommend them because of the added leverage that the taller bar put on the bushings.

Just thought I'd throw that into the mix.

Good luck.