Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[BIGDOG]

The problem with a band saw is the bow in the windshield , also the throat on the band saw. I have truly done around 40 windshields and my system works with a perfect edge . Alot of the other systems are hit and miss , flame to close and trouble, chemical smoothing , spill one drop and your screwed. The sanding takes a little time but you will get perfect results. A total windshield cut my way takes about 45 min. outside. PM me and I will walk you through it.The question of cracking is resolved by the multi stages of sanding, there are NO marks left from the jig saw!!! There would be NO flexing of the Lexan if you use the proper blade and a good saw, you need to let the tool do the job and only enough pressure to stay on line.

[courter]

A bandsaw might work OK if you can hold the shield with the convex side down and work it through the blade nice and slow.  The plastic I can refer to that specifically denies warranty coverage if you use a jigsaw is Dupont's Corian -- there's absolutely no flex there from a measly jig saw, but the straight up and down scratches can cause cracks, even though the surface gets sanded glass smooth and there are no lines left.  Apparently there is damage that stays with the plastic afterward.

[spydglide]

A bandsaw might work OK if you can hold the shield with the convex side down and work it through the blade nice and slow.  The plastic I can refer to that specifically denies warranty coverage if you use a jigsaw is Dupont's Corian -- there's absolutely no flex there from a measly jig saw, but the straight up and down scratches can cause cracks, even though the surface gets sanded glass smooth and there are no lines left.  Apparently there is damage that stays with the plastic afterward.

now, that's very interesting.  'association memory' or just damage that's not visible.     spyder

[rmarion]

I need to cut my windshield down about 2". What is the best way to do this & what power tool is best suited for this job. Should i cut from the bottom or top. Trying to find the rite height so i can order a clearview shield.

it might be benifical to buy another size....... I run two sizes, one in the SG mode and one in the Ultra mode (my Danny Grey seat sits two inches lower than the stock seat)

BTW theres a few good topics with DIY pics over on the HDforums.com

[07 CVO]

I would suggest buying a shorter windshield then you have more options for colder weather.

Mark

[Dan_Lockwood]

now, that's very interesting.  'association memory' or just damage that's not visible.     spyder

After cutting my windshield over 5 years ago and running it on the ultra smooth Shovelhead vibratory cruising machine,  I 've had no issues with using my air powered jigsaw cut windshield.  I did however use up to 600 grit on the edge and my cut edge looked identical to the factory edge.

We use a lot of polycarbonate types of plastic here at work and some have lots of vibration as they are used for guarding on very large plastic production machinery, and we cut with waterjet, jigsaw etc all the time without any issues.  We also flame the edges of some materials.  I'm not sure but I know some of the plastics we use takes to the flame edge better than others.

I think in our application, a smoothly sanded cut edge will suffice.

 

[hossdog]

I've only used a bandsaw so don't know about these other methods but the bandsaw works. Taped the edges and convex side so it wouldn't get scratched. Pencil with with a string tied to it. Measured down and centered the string in center of sheild and ark a line, well many lines until I found the exact ark I wanted. Then filed a chanfer on the edges with round file and sanded down and finished with fine steel whool. Then you take the tape off after your done. No saw marks an lookes like factory edge. It's about chin high now. I eat the big bugs now but the little ones fly over but at least I'm not looking through glass now (can't stand it)