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[Heatwave]

I'm planning on closing the deal on a 2010 SE Ultra tomorrow (Red/Slate). I'm looking to do engine work almost from delivery. Not too radical but still planning for a significant jump in power. Planning to have the head work done by Hillside with the head build raising compression, springs, guides, 5 angle valve job etc. Adding SE 58mm throttle by wire TBI, adjustable pushrods, Pro RT and SE roller rockers. Staying with the stock pistons. Not opening the bottom. Big question is cams.

I'm leaning towards Woods TW408-6 as the dynos I've seen with 110's show it coming on hard and early (below 2400) and hangs in there all the way to 5500. This cam is high lift at .650.

The other cam I'm considering is Woods TW8-6. It comes on later (around 2900) but runs strong all the way 6K. Its a shorter lift cam at .590.

I'm having the Tour Pak made detachable. More like a convertible Street Glide than an Ultra to me. I like lots of power in the curves and an occasional high speed run when the weather, traffic, bike, road and driver conditions are perfect.

Thoughts??? What kind of performance do others think this build will deliver. Any thoughts on one cam vs the other that I'm thinking about using? The 408 will need more compression than the 8-6 but I don't think alot more.

I know very little about the clutch in the 2010 SE Ultra. Will it need to be beefed up for this build or is it already an SE clutch capable of the power this engine will deliver? I also do not know yet what intake is on the '10 SE Ultra. I suspect the same as 2009. Did the 09 SE Ultra and 09 SE RG both have hi-flow A/Cs (even though they looked different?

I know the 2010CVO touring header pipe has changed from 2009, but does anyone know if the stock 96" 2:1:2 headers are still free of a cat? If so, I was hoping to switch over to a "catless" 2:1:2 96" header plus either a Cycle Shack Performance baffle or a 2.25 Fullsac.

Thanks for any feedback on this engine build before the credit cards start flying. Am I missing anything in the overall build?

[jfh]

Heatwave,

Your build plan looks good. The Wood cams are renown for making good TQ and HP, however tend to be a bit noisy due to aggressive ramps. Wood dyno runs can be found at this link:  http://www.woodcarbs.com/dynoruns.htm.  Hillside uses them often and is probably your best source for performance numbers.  Before you decide to stick with stock pistons and jugs you should ride the bike to ensure the typical piston slap between 2800-3000 rpms has been cured for the 2010 model year. To fix this issue on my '09 SERG, I replaced the jugs and slugs with Axtell pieces.

My build is otherwise similar to your plan except I chose to use the S&S 585 cams for quiet running, reduced operating temperatures due to longer duration exhaust, and to extend the performance range over the SE 255.  I also installed the SE 58mm TB, TP roller rockers w/pro-vent boxes, Zippers tapered push rods, SE cam plate, Dewey's Pro-Street porting for the SE 110 heads, 96 head pipe with Fullsac 2" baffles, and twin Jagg coolers on the down tubes instead of the SE premium cooler delivered on the bike. I am still breaking in the new build so have not yet put it on the dyno. So far it feels good, runs quiet, and operating temperatures have been reduced over stock.

I am still running the stock clutch but plan to install Rivera Pro Clutch and SE compensator when this one gives up.

I don't know whether the 2010 96" head pipe includes a cat, but Steve at Fullsac can remove the cat from your CVO head pipe for what you're likely to pay for a 96" take off.

Good luck with your build.

[Heatwave]

Heatwave,

Your build plan looks good. The Wood cams are renown for making good TQ and HP, however tend to be a bit noisy due to aggressive ramps. Wood dyno runs can be found at this link:  http://www.woodcarbs.com/dynoruns.htm.  Hillside uses them often and is probably your best source for performance numbers.  Before you decide to stick with stock pistons and jugs you should ride the bike to ensure the typical piston slap between 2800-3000 rpms has been cured for the 2010 model year. To fix this issue on my '09 SERG, I replaced the jugs and slugs with Axtell pieces.

My build is otherwise similar to your plan except I chose to use the S&S 585 cams for quiet running, reduced operating temperatures due to longer duration exhaust, and to extend the performance range over the SE 255.  I also installed the SE 58mm TB, TP roller rockers w/pro-vent boxes, Zippers tapered push rods, SE cam plate, Dewey's Pro-Street porting for the SE 110 heads, 96 head pipe with Fullsac 2" baffles, and twin Jagg coolers on the down tubes instead of the SE premium cooler delivered on the bike. I am still breaking in the new build so have not yet put it on the dyno. So far it feels good, runs quiet, and operating temperatures have been reduced over stock.

I am still running the stock clutch but plan to install Rivera Pro Clutch and SE compensator when this one gives up.

I don't know whether the 2010 96" head pipe includes a cat, but Steve at Fullsac can remove the cat from your CVO head pipe for what you're likely to pay for a 96" take off.

Good luck with your build.

Thanks for the great feedback. It does sound like your build has alot in common with my plans. I would be very interested in taking a look at your dyno graph after you get it tuned.

I'll definitely pay close attention to the piston slap noise. In fact the 2 graphs above from Bob Wood's site have served as the inspiration for my build. I spoke with Bob about these builds and choosing the right cam as well.

Apparently HD as put an upgraded Compensator in the 2010 CVOs that I hope addresses some of the past issues. If others have any info on the 2010 96" touring headers and whether or not they have a cat it would be greatly appreciated. Still unsure if I need to upgrade the clutch.

Thanks again for the great feedback and good luck with your engine tuning. Let us know how it turns out.

[Hoist!]

Heatwave, have you discussed this with Scott? He should be able to guide you to your desired build. I have no personal experience with the Woods cams, but after trying many other cams in the 110, the S&S 585G (or now available in chain) works VERY well at just under 10:1 CR, some headwork, and that larger TB. Since Scotty's building it, I'd see what he recommends for it. Might I suggest on a Touring bike that you not go too radical if you want it to be a reliable trip bike. And have him check your crank before doing your top end over! Good luck and have fun man!

Hoist!

[HD Street Performance]

I am not sure the SE58 is the best option. On the flow bench a bored stocker with the issues fixed will out flow the 58 and there is a lot of talk of cracking flanges. My information on the cracking is just internet buzz so I would not take it to the bank.

[Black Diamond]

I am not sure the SE58 is the best option. On the flow bench a bored stocker with the issues fixed will out flow the 58 and there is a lot of talk of cracking flanges. My information on the cracking is just internet buzz so I would not take it to the bank.

Dewey

Is this from your own experiences? Tell me more as I'm using the SE 58mm now on my build.

Heatwave

I agree with Howie, talk with Scott P. He knows what he's doing from people I've talked with. If your trusting him to do your build, tell him what your looking to get, bounce ideas around and go with what he says. Been there, done that, got a t-shirt.

JW

[igofar]

Scott just did up a set of 110 heads for me.(in transit as we speak)
I talked to Scott(Hillside) and Bob Wood and we came up with a TW400-6 cam.
The 400 comes on slightly earlier and that is what I was looking for.
10.6 cr, 50mm tb, TTS tuner.

Hoping for good things as my current set up is pretty good. (About 115/115.)

Hillside is all over the Internet and Scott was very helpful.

Brad

[jfh]

I am not sure the SE58 is the best option. On the flow bench a bored stocker with the issues fixed will out flow the 58 and there is a lot of talk of cracking flanges. My information on the cracking is just internet buzz so I would not take it to the bank.

I have experienced cracking flanges when the SE 50mm TB was first released.  Zippers sells billet flanges to fix that problem.  I have not heard any reports of cracking with the 58mm TB flanges. I'll keep a close eye on mine and see how they hold up.

[Heatwave]

Heatwave, have you discussed this with Scott? He should be able to guide you to your desired build. I have no personal experience with the Woods cams, but after trying many other cams in the 110, the S&S 585G (or now available in chain) works VERY well at just under 10:1 CR, some headwork, and that larger TB. Since Scotty's building it, I'd see what he recommends for it. Might I suggest on a Touring bike that you not go too radical if you want it to be a reliable trip bike. And have him check your crank before doing your top end over! Good luck and have fun man!

Hoist!

Thanks for the advice. In fact, I've had several conversations with Scott. He's very patient and provides alot of his time to understand how you ride and what setup will best meet your needs. The proposed build pretty much follows his recommendation with the cam choice still not being finalized. I wish there were more results for the TW 408-6 on a 110 Touring bike. Just not alot of real world data other than the few dynos on the Woods cams site.


FYI, I bought the bike today. 2010 FLHTCUSE5 in red/slate. I'm really impressed with the amoung of metal flake in the paint. The pictures truly give the viewer no idea how outstanding the Ultra paint job is. OTOH, I was really disappointed in the paint on the SE SG. Very glad I didn't go this route. My objective is to essentially have an SE SG when I'm done that I will use for 90% of my riding with a detachable tourpak for overnight trips. I think this was the absolute best way to maximize the long term value of the bike I wanted. Given the paint on the Ultra it became a slam dunk for me.