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[MikeV]

I am planing to do some upgrades to my 2010 FLSTSE to try and reduce the operating temps of the 110. I plan to replace the baffles (which will effectively remove the cats) and adjust the AFR so the engine runs a bit richer. I would like to measure the before and after temps after each upgrade. I have an IR temperature sensor with an aiming laser at my disposal and a digital oil temp gauge. Being new at this I have a couple of questions on how to best collect the data:

- What points on the engine and exhaust system would provide the most meaningful data?
- Should the readings be done after a simple warm up or a hard ride?
- How much does the ambient temperature and humidity impact the readings?

I will report my data once the upgrades are done and the data is collected.

Thanks,

Mike V.

[hard10]

I am planing to do some upgrades to my 2010 FLSTSE to try and reduce the operating temps of the 110. I plan to replace the baffles (which will effectively remove the cats) and adjust the AFR so the engine runs a bit richer. I would like to measure the before and after temps after each upgrade. I have an IR temperature sensor with an aiming laser at my disposal and a digital oil temp gauge. Being new at this I have a couple of questions on how to best collect the data:

- What points on the engine and exhaust system would provide the most meaningful data?
- Should the readings be done after a simple warm up or a hard ride?
- How much does the ambient temperature and humidity impact the readings?

I will report my data once the upgrades are done and the data is collected.

Thanks,

Mike V.

Mike, when the 110's first came out, those of us with them had major heat problems. The two places where the most pertinent data was collected were the bolt connecting the exhaust to the rear cylinder and right under the "110" plate between the fins. Simple warm up should bring the temperature up to normal operating conditions. Finally, ambient temperature (60°~90°+) has little effect on an engine running at 180°+.

[Mr. Wizard]

Mike

Once you get your TTS, run the Datamaster and gather this info. Record a 15 minute run and save the file. It will give you engine temps but not oil temps.

After you do your baffles, run it again and see the difference.

After you run your VTunes, run it again.

You can compare the data files to see your engine temps drop.

[SIX38]

The technique described by Mr. Wizard works well and will give you precise reading from the actual engines sensors.
 
I took some surface temperature readings (used a Fluke digital dual temp thermocouple thermometer) before and after exhaust / ECM modifications. Temperatures vary considerably as speed, throttle and load changes, and these temps were the higher readings.
Before: Stock 2009 SEUC
 
Air Temperature                 80 deg
Front Pipe @ O2 sensor       728 deg
Rear Pipe @ O2 sensor        960 deg
Collector Pipe @ cat          1041 deg
Oil temp                           273  deg (yikes)

After: 96" pipes / no cat / Jet Hot Extreme Sterling; 1.75 in Fullsac baffles; TTS Mastertune with Fullsac '09 SE 110 MAP; SERG Air Cleaner; AMSOIL 20w/50 in 3 holes.
Air Temperature                78 deg
Front Pipe @ O2 sensor      580 deg
Rear Pipe @ O2 sensor       745 deg
Collector Pipe / No Cat       706 deg
Oil Temp                          210 deg

Notes: Oil temps were from fairing mounted oil temp gauge with sensor mounted in the oil pan. I found that readings taken with an IR gun were quite inconsistent with the surface mounted thermocouples, but did show improvements after changes were made. 

Tom P.   

[dkatko]

The technique described by Mr. Wizard works well and will give you precise reading from the actual engines sensors.
 
I took some surface temperature readings (used a Fluke digital dual temp thermocouple thermometer) before and after exhaust / ECM modifications. Temperatures vary considerably as speed, throttle and load changes, and these temps were the higher readings.
Before: Stock 2009 SEUC
 
Air Temperature                 80 deg
Front Pipe @ O2 sensor       728 deg
Rear Pipe @ O2 sensor        960 deg
Collector Pipe @ cat          1041 deg
Oil temp                           273  deg (yikes)

After: 96" pipes / no cat / Jet Hot Extreme Sterling; 1.75 in Fullsac baffles; TTS Mastertune with Fullsac '09 SE 110 MAP; SERG Air Cleaner; AMSOIL 20w/50 in 3 holes.
Air Temperature                78 deg
Front Pipe @ O2 sensor      580 deg
Rear Pipe @ O2 sensor       745 deg
Collector Pipe / No Cat       706 deg
Oil Temp                          210 deg

Notes: Oil temps were from fairing mounted oil temp gauge with sensor mounted in the oil pan. I found that readings taken with an IR gun were quite inconsistent with the surface mounted thermocouples, but did show improvements after changes were made. 

Tom P.   

I see you also have a digital dip stick.  How do the temperature readings from this compare to your fairing mounted oil temp gauge?

[SIX38]

The dipstick LCD would typically read 5 degrees +/- higher than the dash gauge. One thing I didn't do (but should have) was to check the accuracy of these two devices. Now you got me curious, so I will now compare both gauges to a known temperature and then, weather permitting, take test instrument readings at both the fill spout and oil pan tapping while riding. I'll post the results.

Tom P.