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[ridefar]

2004 SEEG with power draw while shut off, ignition off. I have tried 3 different Tecmate chargers with the same result. Each charger shows a continual "bulk charge". Checked every ground and connection that I can locate, cleaned up a couple with same result. New battery in place. The only reason I noticed it is the charger is continually going full bulk charge(0.8 amp). I keep these chargers on my stuff for months at a time with zero issues until now. Normally the charger will zero out after a couple hours. Anybody? Thanks and be safe all...

[Twolanerider]

Unfortunately when asking "what might it be?" the answer is going to be "almost anything."  A greater than normal power draw that's happening with everything off can be a chore to track down.  Use a multimeter to measure the draw then while doing so start pulling fuses.  See if one them kills the draw.  Then start chasing things on that circuit.  That's the best way to narrow the chase.

Don't forget that you will normally have some power draw when the switch is off.  Backing up some radio/clock settings and a bit else.  But it's a very low draw.

[hogasm]

I agree with Twolane on how to isolate the draw

If you are interested on how much draw...pull all the fuses except the one with the draw.....disconnect the positive battery terminal. Take a very god voltage meter and connect the two leads...one to the battery +  and the other to the disconnected positive battery wire. The meter will show how much draw is on the circuit.

[nazzz46]

2004 SEEG with power draw while shut off, ignition off. I have tried 3 different Tecmate chargers with the same result. Each charger shows a continual "bulk charge". Checked every ground and connection that I can locate, cleaned up a couple with same result. New battery in place. The only reason I noticed it is the charger is continually going full bulk charge(0.8 amp). I keep these chargers on my stuff for months at a time with zero issues until now. Normally the charger will zero out after a couple hours. Anybody? Thanks and be safe all...

I had this problem with my 2006 superglide custom went through new battery,had techs look at it at the dealer,got wild hair up my ass one day and searched the bike over and found the slightest of a nick in the rear right turn signal wire, the exposed wire was hitting the inner fender and grounding out thus the electrical leak simple solution electrical tape. I hope you find the problem it is difficult to locate these issues.

[Twolanerider]

I agree with Twolane on how to isolate the draw

If you are interested on how much draw...pull all the fuses except the one with the draw.....disconnect the positive battery terminal. Take a very god voltage meter and connect the two leads...one to the battery +  and the other to the disconnected positive battery wire. The meter will show how much draw is on the circuit.

Holy shi.....   Ooops.  That's a special meter.  Divine measuring would be so accurate .

[skreminegul07]

Actually you need a good multimeter that can act as an ammeter.  They typically can only had very low current and have internal fuses to protect the device.  Verify functionality on a good circuit first. A more expensive meter can actually have a clamp on sensor, making things much easier.  The voltage regulator has been known to cause this when bad.  It always draws a very low amount in Milli amps, but a bad one will draw more.  There is no fuse to isolate.  When you have the meter in place, unplug the voltage regulator, see if that is it. One plug on the back of the regulator is actually the crank sensor.

[MY2NDCVO]

I have used this many time's just use a 12v test light between the pos battery terminal & cable, (when the light goes after pulling all your fuses one at a time of course) out you found your search.

[Twolanerider]

I have used this many time's just use a 12v test light between the pos battery terminal & cable, (when the light goes after pulling all your fuses one at a time of course) out you found your search.

That works.  But can be deceptive on a system where there is normally some draw when the switch is off.  And on our bikes there is some draw when the switch is off. 

The heavier the draw the brighter the light will be.  But that's an awfully relative optical measure to go by.  Was great on old cars where everything but the clock was turned off and you could just unplug the clock.  On newer stuff using a good meter to actually measure draw works better though.  The electrical service manual actually supplies a spec for what those loads should be too.  So you know where you're starting from.

[ridefar]

Ok, I'm nockin' on wood here, but I may have fixed it. There was some mild corrosion on the post on top of the starter  where the + battery cable connects. It was a gray colored substance that was on all contact points at power cable and down onto the stater body. I used a small file to clean up all contacts and the starter post, sprayed all with Wurth brand Contact Ol and reassembled. My charger shows good-no draw as before. Keeping my fingers crossed!

[hogasm]

Holy shi.....   Ooops.  That's a special meter.  Divine measuring would be so accurate .

Notice it was spelled with a little g....and as you know if one works on a harley it has to be a special tool

[nazzz46]

Ok, I'm nockin' on wood here, but I may have fixed it. There was some mild corrosion on the post on top of the starter  where the + battery cable connects. It was a gray colored substance that was on all contact points at power cable and down onto the stater body. I used a small file to clean up all contacts and the starter post, sprayed all with Wurth brand Contact Ol and reassembled. My charger shows good-no draw as before. Keeping my fingers crossed!

You may want to coat the areas that corroded with dielectric gel we use it on our snow plowing equipment it works very well it has a consistency of Vaseline, even in the harshest of    conditions it clings to  the area where you apply it  and repels water.  I have it on all my battery terminal posts