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Author Topic: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend  (Read 2665 times)

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LoneStar CVO

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Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« on: August 15, 2011, 05:24:29 PM »

After much research I went with the Fullsac stage 1 CVO sleeper kit ("B" x-pipe, 2.0" cores and TTS with their tune) for my 2011 CVO Road Glide to get rid of some heat and open up the sound.  Did the install this weekend and wanted to pass along my thoughts on the process while it's still fresh.  Whole process took about 8 working hours in total (excluding the initial hour or so to set up the TTS software on the laptop).

The folks at Fullsac were super friendly and helpful.  I talked to them a few times along the way while researching options.  I received the kit 4 business days after ordering.  Well packaged for shipping.  The pipe and baffles looked to be well made.

Did the baffle install first - one at a time so I could have one intact to look at if needed when reinstalling the heat shields, etc.  I used a Dremel Multi-Pro grinder with a "#8193 - Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone."  No need for an extension on the Dremel - the standard setup was fine to reach the welds.  Grinding the welds took about 10-20 minutes each depending on the size of the weld.  I followed the tip I'd seen on this site about knocking the baffles back into the pipe slightly to see if the weld was broken through and to clean up the remaining weld material so the baffle would pass through.  I don't really see how one could cut through the pipe using this stone and keeping the grinding wheel parallel to the muffler body.  Just take your time and let the grinder work.  I put the mufflers on a short workbench, pulled up a five-gallon bucket as a stool and went to work.  I also wore my night riding glasses with the yellow lens to help see the process better - along with a magnifying glass to check process.

I used a block of wood and dead blow hammer to knock the baffles inwards first.  Then to knock outwards, I stood the mufflers up on a padded surface and started out with the large dowel rod as others have mentioned, but the edge of the wood was shearing off the end and lodging between the baffle and muffler body, so I wound up using the handle of my floor jack, which worked out well.  To get the baffles all the out way, it helps to have an extra set of hands to hold the muffler upright off the floor while someone makes the final hit.  I guess an alternative would be to strap the muffler to a workbench, but I'd didn't want to scratch it up.

Drilled the new holes per the instructions at 1.5" from the end.  I put some tape on the spot to drill and used my drill press - started with a 1/8", went to 3/16" and finished up with 1/4".  New baffles installed easily - just make sure you line them up straight so they will slide all the way in.  I left the original packing in the muffler as recommended.  If you are just doing the Fullsac baffles, I would plan on about 3 hours all in for the job - from removal to reinstall.

Now it was on to the x-pipe.  Here is where the Harley shop manuals came in handy.  If you don't have a set, I would recommend them for this part as the instructions for removing/installing the header pipe are not included in the Fullsac kit.  In addition to pulling off the right side floorboard I also took off the right side lower to gain more access.  Followed the steps per the manual and all came off easily.  The old gaskets need to be pried out of the heads - just be careful you don't scratch anything.  I used a small screw driver and needle nose pliers.

After placing the new gaskets that came with the kit into the exhaust ports and transferring over the retaining rings and exhaust flanges to the pipe, the new pipe installed without too much trouble.  A little tricky to get it all lined up and to keep from messing up the new gaskets.  An extra set of hands here is helpful also.  I first tried loosely installing the heat shields as some have suggested when initially putting on the x-pipe, but wound up taking them back off as I couldn't get a firm enough grip on the x-pipe to maneuver it into place. The outer coating on the pipe does scratch real easily, but it gets covered up with the heat shields in the end.  The O2 sensors do get reconnected in the process.  I don't know if it matters or not, but I marked them during the removal process so I'd get them back into the same holes.  I found that I had to "pre-wind" the O2 cables backwards when reinstalling so that the wires didn't get over twisted when screwing the sensors back in.

Only issue I had on the reinstall was getting the bracket that holds the cross over pipe on lined up properly.  I'm not sure what was off here, but I had a bear of time getting it all lined up right but it eventually worked with a second of hands.  After following the reinstall process for the whole system I torqued all back down per the Harley specs and fired it up to test for any exhaust leaks prior to reinstalling the heat shields.  Heat shields installed easily - just line up the clamps and tighten all back down. (End of Part 1)
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LoneStar CVO

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2011, 05:25:15 PM »

(Part II) Finally, it was on to the TTS MasterTune install.  I had pre-loaded the software per the instructions included in the kit and printed the manuals.  After going through the process, I would highly recommend having a printed copy of the manual handy as the instructions from Fullsac are very elementary whereas the manual does a screen shot walk-through and guides you through the process of backing up your current factory settings, installing the new map, etc.  This is a PC only application - no MAC options, unless you run Windows on the MAC.

I initially had a "Com Port" error after hooking it all up.  Turns out the driver necessary for the TTS USB cable doesn't auto install in the in ital setup - this is where the trouble shooting error section of the manual came in handy.  You have a couple of options to install the driver - either go on-line and download or get it off of the install disk that came with the tuner.  Followed the instructions in the manual to get the driver from the CD and got the driver installed and then tried the process again.  This time the bike and the PC were communicating.  I saved the factory calibrations per the instructions and then installed the new custom map - along the way writing down the various "calibration ID's," etc. for reference. Once done, I was able to verify the new map had loaded as shown in the manual.  Absent the driver problem, a pretty seamless process that would have took about 20 minutes.  Just make sure your laptop battery is good or you are plugged in to ensure the PC doesn't die in the process.

After all this - finally got to ride it, but only about 20 miles or so (highway and in-town) before other commitments.  This set-up is a lot quieter than I was expecting.  A nice rumble at idle, but not loud at all.  My '03 Ultra with Screaming Eagle pipes and Stage 1 is a lot louder.  Definite seat of the pants difference in power - you can get the big bike up to 80+ in a hurry.  It does get louder in the 3k+ RPM range, but cruising at 70 wasn't a whole lot different from stock sound wise.  Overall a pretty good compromise in the sound department - loud enough to know you're on a Harley when you get on it, but not loud enough to upset others or to get annoying on a long ride.  Smooth sound on decel - no popping.  I did notice a little bit of a burning smell and some faint smoke coming out of the pipes initially after cranking it up in the shop first - assumed it was due to the coating on the pipes settling in.  Seemed to go away after riding though.

A little disappointed in the heat management though - there is still a lot of heat coming off the right side.  I actually couldn't tell a difference from stock on the short ride, but it was another 100 degree day here in Texas, so that may still be my problem.  May have to try wrapping the pipes in exhaust wrap as others have noted here.  I've read other posts that indicated the heat issue was all but gone after this kit install, but so far that isn't my experience.  More to follow on this.

Anyway - sorry for the long post - just wanted to pass along all of this for those considering the change and get into one post the various tips I saw that were helpful to me.  Overall, a solid kit for the price and a DIY'er.  Not that difficult if you are not afraid to work on things and have the necessary tools.  Improves the sound and power of the bike noticeably immediately.  The heat issue may take some additional tweaking tough. 
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LarryB

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2011, 07:17:56 PM »

two things come to mind during your install. the 02 sensors can be disconnected from the bike and then removed from the headpipe, they plug in at the other end. then reinstall them and plug back in.
if you still have heat issues, I would highly recommend doing the v-tune process. a little more work but worth it. creates a custom map for your specific bike.
just my thoughts
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Take it Easy Greasy Cuz it's a long walk home.

Did I shave my head for this?

mark

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2011, 07:35:57 PM »

Congrats...welcome to the Fullsac club.  I finished my setup about 3 wks ago...I too noticed a "seat of the pants" increase in power.  Bike seemed to jump to 90 mph w/o much effort.  My header really smoked when I first fired the bike up...went away after the 1st ride.       
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LoneStar CVO

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2011, 03:53:26 PM »

LarryB - thanks for the tip on the O2 sensors.  I'll probably unplug them and undo any twist that is there.

On the V-Tune process to lower the heat - any quick fixes to the FullSac map to try or should the process be done from scratch? 

Thanks -
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LarryB

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2011, 04:00:43 PM »

V-tune it from scratch.
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walstibsf

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2011, 12:04:13 AM »

As far as heat goes, I haven't been able to make it go away with the lowers on in the summer.  Even on hot days with them off, still feel some on my right calf, but overall much better.  And I know better cooling of the motor is occurring, as no detonation happens even when she is really warm. Willing to bet that the map you received from Steve is 95-98 % optimized. Also, it will take a few rides for the adaptive controls to settle in on your ECM.   Sure, you can shave it as close as you like, but in the end, does it even up? ... my .02...

Whichever way it goes:  all the best..............
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gabhart

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2011, 09:51:31 AM »

Great info, thank you for posting! I will be doing this install when I get my Mastertune from Fullsac. I WAS wondering about the 02 sensors but it looks like unplugging them from the bike during the removal/reinstall is the way to go. You also touched on the heat shield which was my other concern. I will most likely install them last.

Did you use anti-seize on the 02 sensors when you re-installed them? Also, did you use high temp silicone on the header to muffler connection? Just wondering if these 2 items are really necessary.
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Fullsac X-Pipe "B", TTS Mastertune, Rinehart Slip-ons, full LED conversion

LarryB

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Re: Fullsac Stage 1 Installed This Weekend
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2011, 11:25:33 AM »

Great info, thank you for posting! I will be doing this install when I get my Mastertune from Fullsac. I WAS wondering about the 02 sensors but it looks like unplugging them from the bike during the removal/reinstall is the way to go. You also touched on the heat shield which was my other concern. I will most likely install them last.

Did you use anti-seize on the 02 sensors when you re-installed them? Also, did you use high temp silicone on the header to muffler connection? Just wondering if these 2 items are really necessary.
Yes on the anti-seize, No on the silicone
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Take it Easy Greasy Cuz it's a long walk home.

Did I shave my head for this?
 

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