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Author Topic: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011  (Read 1052 times)

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CWH

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Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« on: May 11, 2011, 02:56:54 PM »

Tonight after work I am going to put my FULLSAC B lead pipe on my CUSE6 2011. I put the baffles in the cans last night, that went pretty smooth with all the excellent instructions and pics from this GREAT site, my question is does anyone have the down and dirty on the 'must do' and maybe more important 'don't do' steps in making the change over as painless as possible. I haven't got the service manual for the touring bike yet and my last exhaust changeover done by me was on my 1981 FLT Shovel, so any suggestions will be appreciated.
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2011, 01:23:06 PM »

Remove the driver's side floorboard (makes life easier and is easy to do).  Go ahead and remove the heat shields on the two header pipes, but you can leave the one on that covers where the two pipes come together (just loosen it a bit) at the Cat and fit it loosely on the new pipe(after you've removed the old pipe, of course) before you put it on.  Loosen the clamp that holds the crossover pipe to the bottom of the frame, and the muffler type clamp that holds the crossover to the header pipe (no need to remove the heat shield for the crossover pipe).  Remove the bolt that holds the header to the frame (located just under the Cat).  If you have a 1/2" swivel socket it makes removing the exhaust nuts that hold the header to the head a bit easier, at least on one of the nuts (front), but if not, it can still be done.  It helps if you have an extra set of hands to hold the header when you remove all the nuts, but you can make do by yourself.  Pull the old header off and out of the crossover pipe, and put it on an old sheet or bath towel to keep from scratching the heat shield.  Get a flashlight and a small bladed screwdriver and carefully remove the old exhaust gaskets from both heads.  You can usually do this by gently prying the gasket away from the side of the port, then grabbing it with a pair of needle nose pliers...if it's really stuck in there, you might have to do a bit more to get it all out...just try not to gouge the ports with the screwdriver.  Install new gaskets in the heads.  Remove the heat shield from the old header that covers the CAT...fit it loosely on the new header before installation.  Remove the old flanges and split rings from the old header and install on the new one.  Install the new header into the heads, being careful not to bugger up the new gaskets...it helps to have another set of hands here, but it can be done alone.  Install loosely all 4 nuts onto the studs holding the header to the exhaust ports, then loosely install the bolt that holds the X to the frame, enough to hold everything in place.  Tighten each nut on the exhaust studs EVENLY until you have them snugged down well enough not to leak.  I'm sure there's a TQ setting for these nuts, but I don't know how the hell you'd get a TQ wrench on them, so I just go by "feel".  Just do them evenly, and don't overtighten (don't want to break off a stud...you can tell when they are tight).  Tighten the hanger bolt below the X.  Fit the crossover pipe to the new header and kind of snug the clamps up, but not to the point where you can't move things a bit, so you can line everything back up when installing the left side Muffler back on the bike.  Install both mufflers, after loosely fitting the heat shields back on them.  I like to use some high temp silicone (red) sealer on the inside of where the muffler slips onto the new header...makes it easier if you have to remove them later, IMO.  Make sure the mufflers are slipped on the header far enough and that the clamp is positioned so that you can tighten it easily.  Bolt the muffler to the hanger to support everything.  On the left side, slip the muffler onto the crossover pipe, making sure everything is lined up properly and bolt to the hanger.  Make sure the crossover is positioned correctly both in the muffler, and to the header pipe on the other side, then tighten down the crossover hanger bracket, the muffler clamp for the left side, and the clamp where the crossover connects to the new header.  Tighten the muffler clamp on the right side.  Install the heat shields back onto the new header pipe, making sure you can get to all the clamps to tighten them down.  Position the heat shields for the mufflers and tighten those clamps.  Position the X heat shield properly and ensure that the....
« Last Edit: May 12, 2011, 01:47:15 PM by TCnBham »
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Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2011, 01:35:54 PM »

...header heat shields are in the right place so there are no gaps where all the shields go together throughout the entire exhaust.  Tighten all the shield clamps down.  Reinstall the driver's floorboard...now would be a good time to put the 3/4" extenders on the floorboards, but that is a personal preference.  BEFORE doing anything else, wipe all the chrome on the mufflers/heat shields down with rubbing alcohol to remove your fingerprints.  If you have purchased the TTS to reflash the ECM, then remove the left side cover and unclip the diagnostic port so you can hook up the TTS dongle to the port with the proper cable.  The rest comes with the TTS instructions, if you're taking that route.  Hopefully, you're doing something to change the MAP in the ECM...it's already too lean from the factory, and will be even leaner after removing the CAT and putting in the new baffles.  The canned MAP that Steve at Fullsac has done works perfectly well, IMO.  You could probably squeeze out a bit more with a Dynotune, but I don't think you can get $400 worth more out of it.  Yes, every motor is SLIGHTLY different, but not significantly so...others may not agree with me on this point.

Start the bike and listen for exhaust leaks...let it warm up well.  Take it for a spin to be sure nothing is rattling or is going to come loose (like the mufflers getting blown backwards if you don't have the clamps tight enough).  Listen for exhaust leaks again when you get back.  If you've done everything right, all should be well, so just enjoy the new sound and power...also, the drivability of the bike should be improved, if you've used the TTS and Fullsacs "canned" MAPs.

There may be a better procedure, but this worked for me, and I just did this to my SERGU a couple of weeks ago.  It's not difficult...just take your time.  The most aggravating part for me is getting all the heat shields back on and lined up properly.  Drink a beer or two if you start cussing too much, and enjoy the garage time.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2011, 02:00:41 PM by TCnBham »
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
Legend Air Ride Rear Shocks
Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Suspension
Clearview GT13 Windshield
TTS Mastertune

CWH

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2011, 02:18:48 PM »

thank you very much for your description. I started on it last night and will finish it up tonight. Just need to tighten everything up and get the shields on in the right places. then get the TTS on and I will be ready to ride.
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2011, 02:28:05 PM »

thank you very much for your description. I started on it last night and will finish it up tonight. Just need to tighten everything up and get the shields on in the right places. then get the TTS on and I will be ready to ride.

Just be sure to let the software update...it takes a few minutes.  Also, be sure you have installed the USB drivers so the com port will show up right.  Otherwise, it's pretty straightforward.  You will be happy with the result, I think.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
Legend Air Ride Rear Shocks
Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Suspension
Clearview GT13 Windshield
TTS Mastertune

CWH

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2011, 08:44:29 PM »

I got the software loaded and the map installed and took it for a quick shakedown run to check for leaks, no problems found. First impressions are very impressive, can't wait for a real good run to check all the improvements.
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smkymtnboy

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2011, 10:42:35 PM »

I got the software loaded and the map installed and took it for a quick shakedown run to check for leaks, no problems found. First impressions are very impressive, can't wait for a real good run to check all the improvements.
what are the gains HP TQ
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CWH

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2011, 10:54:38 PM »

I haven't had it on a dyno yet. Just 'seat of the pants' impression and that is significant. I haven't ridden it much more than a 6 mile loop to check for leaks and to see that everything was tight. If the weather doesn't clear up it may be another day or two before I can get back on it.
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1.75 pwr. cores
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HarleyGoodies Floor board
extenders

Midnight Rider

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2011, 11:00:20 PM »

I got the software loaded and the map installed and took it for a quick shakedown run to check for leaks, no problems found. First impressions are very impressive, can't wait for a real good run to check all the improvements.

Glad it all went well for you and that you're happy with the results.  Screw the Dyno...if it's running right and your seat of the pants Dyno makes you smile, that's good enough, IMO.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
Legend Air Ride Rear Shocks
Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Suspension
Clearview GT13 Windshield
TTS Mastertune

CWH

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Re: Lead Pipe CUSE 6 2011
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2011, 11:04:48 PM »

It went a lot smoother with help from you and others from this Forum, and Steve from FULLSAC. Many thanks really looking forward to getting some seat time in.
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Fullsac B X-pipe
1.75 pwr. cores
TTS MasterTuner
HarleyGoodies Floor board
extenders
 

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