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[Stormer]

for chaincase , mt-90 or mtl ?  

[geezerglide]

xocyber,

Transmission; Heavy Duty Shockproof

Primary; MTL

Engine; not trying to open an "Oil Thread" after break in, any good Synthetic Oil; Redline, Mobil V Twin, Amsoil etc.

geezerglide

[SPIDERMAN]

xocyber,

Transmission; Heavy Duty Shockproof

Primary; MTL

Engine; [highlight]not trying to open an "Oil Thread[/highlight]" after break in, any good Synthetic Oil; Redline, Mobil V Twin, Amsoil etc.

geezerglide

Too late, you already did

Everything I've read suggests that Redline has way too much Moly in it for a wetclutch  

I agree on trans and engine however

[erniezap]

Using Amzoil in the engine and primary, either Redline heavy duty shockproof or Amzoil synthetic gear oil in the tranny

[Crawdaddy]

I am using Amsoil and Bel Ray GearSaver in my 6 speed tranny.  No problems.  I did learn recently to change the oil and filter every 2500 to 3000 miles.  The oil is okay but the filter isn't good for more than that and starts bypassing too much.

[Twolanerider]

I am using Amsoil and Bel Ray GearSaver in my 6 speed tranny.  No problems.  I did learn recently to change the oil and filter every 2500 to 3000 miles.  The oil is okay but the filter isn't good for more than that and starts bypassing too much.

Arctic, if the filter clogging is the only reason you're going to the shorter intervals than why not just change the filter, add one quart and keep going another 2500 rather than changing everything?  Spending the extra money for the good synthetics then changing them at such short intervals is really a bit of a waste.  If changing at 2000-2500 miles anyway I'd (personally) not spend the extra money for the synthetic.

[Fired00d]

...I did learn recently to change the oil and filter every 2500 to 3000 miles.  The oil is okay but the filter isn't good for more than that and starts bypassing too much.

What oil filter are you using (MoCo or aftermarket)? Had never heard about this before. [smiley=confused5.gif]

 [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 [smiley=fireman.gif]

[Crawdaddy]

Spending the extra money for the good synthetics then changing them at such short intervals is really a bit of a waste.  If changing at 2000-2500 miles anyway I'd (personally) not spend the extra money for the synthetic.

Actually his recommendation was to change both and avoid the cost of synthetic.  Keep it clean and tidy.  In his recommendation, he stated that Fram makes most of the filters including MoCo, and they are all about the same.  He thinks synthetics are too thin for high compression, can't find it out on the road as easy if you have a mishap.  Recommends Diesel grade 20/50.  Says that is a good high compression grade.

2lane, you could talk to him at Coweta Custom Cycles, runs a pretty good shop and Route 66 HD sends a lot of overflow in his direction.  Duane Guynes is his name.

I just had all my service done with Rt 66, but when my warranty is up, I plan to use Duane's shop.  When I get back from Yellowstone/Sturgis, I'll have 3500 mile on this change with Amsoil, and I'll cut the filter open and see what it looks like.

[Crawdaddy]

What oil filter are you using (MoCo or aftermarket)? Had never heard about this before. [smiley=confused5.gif]

 [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 [smiley=fireman.gif]

Right now I am using the MoCo recommended filter, theirs.

[Midnight Rider]

Dood...there's a bunch of stuff about this filter issue on an Oil Filter thread in the Twin Cam section.  The HD apparently has a weaker bypass spring...

Crawdaddy...not meaning to dispute what the guy was telling you...but, first of all, unless you've done some mods to your engine, the 103's are not high compression motors.  With regards to synthetic oils being "too thin", "too slick", etc, etc...there is a lot of "old school" thoughts and ideas floating around out there about that...it is simply...no if's, and's, but's, maybe's, or whatever's...NOT true.  All oils, including synthetics must pass stringent grade/formulation testing.  A 20W50 VISCOSITY (thickness/thinness) rating is the same accross the board, no matter the oil and whether it is synthetic or dino.  Other factors determine the grading of I, II, III, IV, V, etc...generally speaking, the higher the grade rating, the better the quality, but there are other factors to consider.

If you're changing that frequently, you could probably use almost any good quality dino oil in this day and time and be fine.  Synthetics will hold up at least twice as long as a dino oil.

Fram does make a lot of filters for others, and it would not surprise me at all to know that they make HD's.  By the way, the claim HD makes of filtering to 5 microns is total BS.  If they did, it would strip the oil of all additives.  

My 2 cents...

[Crawdaddy]

The HD apparently has a weaker bypass spring...

[highlight]Weak spring on bypass would indicate to me less oil to filter.  Maybe lower pressure too.[/highlight]

Crawdaddy...not meaning to dispute what the guy was telling you...but, first of all, unless you've done some mods to your engine, the 103's are not high compression motors.

[highlight]I have 10:5:1 compression.[/highlight]

All oils, including synthetics must pass stringent grade/formulation testing.  A 20W50 VISCOSITY (thickness/thinness) rating is the same accross the board, no matter the oil and whether it is synthetic or dino.  Other factors determine the grading of I, II, III, IV, V, etc...generally speaking, the higher the grade rating, the better the quality, but there are other factors to consider.

[highlight]Do they all coat the parts the same?  (Not an argument, just asking)[/highlight]

[highlight]Point of the mechanic's issue: 1. You don't need synthetic oil if you change more often.  2. You will have better luck finding diesel grade 20:50 in the country if you have a problem, 3.  You can use a Fram filter if necessary.  

Don't know about the 5 micron claim, is that what HD is saying?[/highlight]

[Fired00d]

Dood...there's a bunch of stuff about this filter issue on an Oil Filter thread in the Twin Cam section.  The HD apparently has a weaker bypass spring......

Have read them, that's why I've got a K&N oil filter that I will be using next service. I knew about they bypassing issues, but had thought this was an issue from the start. Hadn't heard it being a mileage related issue like Crawdaddy was referring to.

 [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 [smiley=fireman.gif]

[grc]

Actually his recommendation was to change both and avoid the cost of synthetic.  Keep it clean and tidy.  In his recommendation, he stated that Fram makes most of the filters including MoCo, and they are all about the same.  [highlight]He thinks synthetics are too thin for high compression, can't find it out on the road as easy if you have a mishap.  Recommends Diesel grade 20/50.  Says that is a good high compression grade.[/highlight]
2lane, you could talk to him at Coweta Custom Cycles, runs a pretty good shop and Route 66 HD sends a lot of overflow in his direction.  Duane Guynes is his name.

I just had all my service done with Rt 66, but when my warranty is up, I plan to use Duane's shop.  When I get back from Yellowstone/Sturgis, I'll have 3500 mile on this change with Amsoil, and I'll cut the filter open and see what it looks like.

Crawdaddy,

Considering how hot these 103's run, I would not go back to dino oil even if I changed it every 2500 miles.  There is a reason H-D went to factory fill synthetic oil and an oil cooler on these things, and it wasn't because they felt generous and wanted to give us a little extra for our $30k+.  Regular dino oil starts to break down rapidly at high temps (over 220[ch730]F), but any good synthetic will handle up to 300[ch730]F.  Also, synthetics like Mobil 1 are easy to find nowdays.  Every Walmart and auto parts place I've ever wandered through carries it, and if they don't have the specific "V-Twin 20w50", you can use the automotive 15w50 (that's what I used in my '99 Twin Cam).  BTW - synthetics are not "thinner" than dino oil, as your source indicated.  That's an old wives tale that was started back when Mobil 1 was first introduced.  A 50 wt motor oil has to be a certain viscosity (measured in centistokes on specific equipment) to be labeled as such.  Therefore, a 50 wt synthetic cannot be "thinner" than a 50 wt dino oil by definition.
 
My suggestion:  Mobil 1 and K&N oil filter.  That's what I'm using, and I'm fully satisfied with both.

Jerry

[Crawdaddy]

Crawdaddy,

Considering how hot these 103's run, I would not go back to dino oil even if I changed it every 2500 miles.  There is a reason H-D went to factory fill synthetic oil and an oil cooler on these things, and it wasn't because they felt generous and wanted to give us a little extra for our $30k+.  Regular dino oil starts to break down rapidly at high temps (over 220[ch730]F), but any good synthetic will handle up to 300[ch730]F.  Also, synthetics like Mobil 1 are easy to find nowdays.  Every Walmart and auto parts place I've ever wandered through carries it, and if they don't have the specific "V-Twin 20w50", you can use the automotive 15w50 (that's what I used in my '99 Twin Cam).  BTW - synthetics are not "thinner" than dino oil, as your source indicated.  That's an old wives tale that was started back when Mobil 1 was first introduced.  A 50 wt motor oil has to be a certain viscosity (measured in centistokes on specific equipment) to be labeled as such.  Therefore, a 50 wt synthetic cannot be "thinner" than a 50 wt dino oil by definition.
 
My suggestion:  Mobil 1 and K&N oil filter.  That's what I'm using, and I'm fully satisfied with both.

Jerry

Point taken TC, and if you look further up this thread, I am still using Amsoil synthetic.  I buy the heat tolerability of synthetic oil.  I don't buy the filter life issue.  If / then the filter does not out live the oil, and needs a change, then why not change the oil at the same time? Why put used oil through a new filter?  That is the messy part of the whole change.

On the other hand, I notice a signifant change on the bike after an oil change.  It runs tighter, stronger and quieter with new oil.  And don't get me wrong, I have followed the HD line on synthetic oil throughout, with the exception of the tranny.  I have deviated to the Bell Ray Gear Saver.  The six speed is much better sounding with that lube.

What ever my yellow likes, my yellow will get.