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[murphy]

With all the electrical stuff that I've attached to my battery like the tender hook up, amp power line etc., the red side terminal is starting to look a little crowded.

Aside from hard wiring everything on the bike, I was wondering if there is some type of bus device on the market to clean the area up a bit.

I envision a figure 8 type set up where one side would mount to the terminal as it stands now and all the other junk gets attached to the other side of the 8.

I think it would be it really convenient if and when the battery needed to be removed, one bolt and one eye, all the rest would stay intact.

I've looked around at most of the big on line sales companies but to no avail... anybody seen such an animal?

[Twolanerider]

Might not have room for it but the race car/hot rod aftermarket has many options for small remote fuse panels.  Supply one properly sized power source to it then use it as, basically, a distribution manifold for the electrics.

If not enough room or just want something even simpler there are basic (and small) terminal blocks that do the same thing without adding the fuses.  Check the websites from places like Waytek, Painless Wiring or a lesser known shop called Haywire ( http://www.haywireinc.com ) .  The latter is local to me but is a nice small auto electrics shop with a surprisingly effective little website.  Check in his terminal block or fuse panel section to see if there's anything that might meet your needs.

[Bojiboy]

Take a look at this. I installed one under the seat and it works great. Has a switched accessory section if desired.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuzeblock-Fuse-Block-FZ-1_p_92.html

[murphy]

Thanks guys!

[JR]

Take a look at this. I installed one under the seat and it works great. Has a switched accessory section if desired.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuzeblock-Fuse-Block-FZ-1_p_92.html

I really like this idea but where and how did you mount this under the seat   Would love to see pictures after you installed! Thanks for info!

[hogasm]

Look up somewhere here where Porthole utilized the unused spaces in the fuse box

[Bojiboy]

JR- First, hope you are feeling better! Mounted the fuse block under the seat. See attached pictures. I replaced the stock seat with a Corbin that has it's own backrest mount in the seat. That allowed me to remove the factory backrest mount and that freed up a lot of space under the seat. I used the supplied double sided sticky mount pad to attach the block to the fender. Cleaned everything with alcohol first. Also, I sealed the two holes in the fender where wiring runs through. That helps things to stay a lot cleaner and dryer under the seat.....

[Bojiboy]

.

[Bojiboy]

Last one.

[JR]

JR- First, hope you are feeling better! Mounted the fuse block under the seat. See attached pictures. I replaced the stock seat with a Corbin that has it's own backrest mount in the seat. That allowed me to remove the factory backrest mount and that freed up a lot of space under the seat. I used the supplied double sided sticky mount pad to attach the block to the fender. Cleaned everything with alcohol first. Also, I sealed the two holes in the fender where wiring runs through. That helps things to stay a lot cleaner and dryer under the seat.....

I am feeling better each day, thanks! I was wondering after seeing the box how that thing would fit under the seat and without pinching or chaffing the wires going to it. After seeing the pics, and thanks for posting, I see how you were able to do it. Changing to the Corbin seat allowed you the space needed. Now I see and understand. Thanks again for taking the pics and you did a great job!

Look up somewhere here where Porthole utilized the unused spaces in the fuse box

Thanks Brian, I'm fixin to search that now!

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Brian, I'm fixin to search that now!

It's a simple thing to do if you wish to JR.  The fuse panel opens up easily.  Even on the busy SEEG fuse panels there are three (I think that's right) locations unused.  In some there will even be an unused spade terminal already in the empty hole (at least there were in the few I've been in to).  If not the terminals are in the parts manuals.  Then it's just a case of making the crimp on whatever new wire you bring to the back of the fuse panel.

[JR]

Thanks Don! Showing my stupidity, I have never had the need to look into my fuse panel so I didn't know there were spare legs in inside!

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Don! Showing my stupidity, I have never had the need to look into my fuse panel so I didn't know there were spare legs in inside!

Usually so.  With a test light it's obvious which side of each pair is hot.  It'll be hot whether there's a wire on that side or not (come across fuse panel).  So just add your new wire to the other side.

The small orange locks that block access to the terminals can be removed with a small pin tool or small screw driver.  Obvious when you see them up close too.

Only thing to pay particular attention to is a couple of unused fuse locations immediately next to and "downstream" from the relays.  If memory serves you can't use those holes to add new circuits as the power that gets to them is intermittent dependent on what the relays are doing.  Aside from those, however, any open hole is fair game.

I didn't want inline fuses in the fairing.  More hassle than it's worth for a simple blown fuse.  So my heated grips, heated seat, added power saddlebag locks, GPS power and power for the EMS tuning module all come back to the fuse panel.  It's nice having all the fuses in one place where you expect them to be.

[JR]

Great information, Thanks again Don!