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[jeff547943]

I have a new 2011 FLHTCUSE6. The manual states that it supports MPEG-2.5 Audio Layer III CDs. If I burn a CD from iTunes (V10.4.1 on an Apple MacBookPRO running Lion) in either MP3 or Data format it won't play, yet it plays OK in my car (Porsche Cayenne S - not exactly an out-there gadget car).

So on the CVO when I put the CD in the display spins through all the song titles, gets to the end and starts over...like its scanning looking for something it will recognise, but doesn't play. If I put an audio CD in it plays. I reduced the number of songs on the CD down to 80, still didn't work.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated...Jeff

[Midnight Rider]

I'm no expert, but try reducing it down to 8x

Seems I remember that when burning the CD to update the HK radio, it has to be done at 8x....

[T-Hawk]

When I tried to simply copy the mp3 files from the computer to the disk I had the same result... then I remembered to create the disk as an Audio CD... the Roxio program converted the mp3's into the standard CD Audio format before burning them to the CD itself.  Works great now, but still only get about 15 songs at a time, as with any store bought CD.

I'm pretty sure any CD Burning software can do this conversion, I just happened to have Roxio pre-installed on my computer.

I'm going to attempt to create an Audio DVD and see if that works, using the Roxio software to convert the files over... I really don't think it's going to work, but I have plenty of disk to at least give it a try. 

[ALRG8TOR]

Some recorders/players are either CD+R or CD-R (or both) compatible, it may make a difference to the player what type of disc you use. Had a similar problem in my car, it would only take +R.

[T-Hawk]

Some recorders/players are either CD+R or CD-R (or both) compatible, it may make a difference to the player what type of disc you use. Had a similar problem in my car, it would only take +R.

The disc I have in the player right now is a CD-R and seems to be working in both my Tahoe and "Sheila" 

[jeff547943]

OK, thanks all for your suggestions, the burn speed looked like the only thing I could change with the existing HW/SW I am using, so I found a good link about what the burn speed means...seems like the lower the speed you use the better the quality is supposed to be ....see following link:
 http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/nov04/articles/qa1104-3.htm

So I burned a CD-R at x1 in Data and then 1 at x1 in MP3....then reduced the number of sounds down to about 80 (530Mb on a 700Mb disc)...still no joy, .so I am going to run a cleaner disk through the audio to see if that works otherwise I am almost out of options here and don't want to go the audio burn route due to the small number of tracks I can get onto a disc. So will update on the results of cleaning else I may go to the dealer to see if they have any MP3 discs that work and check it on my system. I may try the CD+R but seems like it should take all 3 +R -R and RW

Regards Jeff

[T-Hawk]

Silly Me!!! 

What was I thinking... of course the Karmin isn't going to except a DVD 

But it was worth the try 

[jeff547943]

Well I finally got a solution, not sure if its the best  but it worked. The problem seemed to be more with the data in the files that with the Harman, so here is what I ended up doing, and I did go through about 25CDs with all the usual options of burn speed, number of tracks etc...so have to be honest here, don't know what I was doing just trial and error, there was way too much information and no error logs to look at so it was a suck it and see approach

I downloaded a piece of free software called SWITCH from http://www.nch.com.au/software/mp3.html.

So first thing I did was save all the files from iTunes to a directory, which were all saved as the original MP3 files
then I used Switch to convert them to another directory as a WAV file
then I used switch to recreate them as a MP3

This worked for all tracks, so in the need I had about 120 tracks right up to the 700Mb limit, burnt at x8

Note: I had tried to convert MP3s to MP3s but I suspect the software didn't change some if nothing changes based on the conversion parameters that were set....perhaps ...anyway this gave me moderate success with only a boy 5 tracks being read out of 100

I guess the lesson here is that MP3s ain't MP3s and as files get passed around from system to system they all get modified somewhere along the way and then we blame Harley for a player that doesn't work...you have to feel sorry for some of the service guys who sign up hoping to pull engines apart and end up playing with MP3 formats

I am not sure the quality was that great, don't know if something got lost along the way but when my helmet is being buffeted around in the wind I am sure it will sound good enough until curiosity gets the better of me...so I will test out a commercial audio version Vs.s the MP3 one day and try and convert that instead of working with a bunch of passed around files


As they say...you get what you pay for, and maybe I shouldn't be so anal

Cheers ....Jeff

[bandit]

You mentioned it: mp3 are not mp3 

The burn-speed has influence, I always use the
slowest speed to burn cd's for my car and bike.
Also the mp3-settings have a big influence, weather
or not the cd's will be played by your hardware.
Maybe on the Harman-homepage, you'll find the
settings, that are supported by your model.

[jeff547943]

I guess just one more point here, is that I would only suggest this if all else fails, as was pointed out at http://mp3.about.com/od/musicformats/a/MP3settings.htm

The MP3 format is a lossy format and converting to another lossy format (including another MP3) is not recommended. Even if you try to convert to a higher bitrate, you will still lose quality. It is usually best to leave the original as it is, unless you want to reduce storage space and don’t mind a reduction in audio resolution.

[ALRG8TOR]

I have always saved all my music files (RIP) to my computer hard drive before burning new CDs using Windows Media Player. There are two settings which can have an effect on your overall quality of your end product: the RIP speed (resolution) and the BURN speed (resolution) - I use 128 kbps for each, using 128 over 64 doubles the file size but "samples" the music file twice as frequently leading to a better quality product. Not withstanding all that BS the difference is probably not something the human ear can detect but may help to eliminate some of the issues with your playback on different equipment.

Most manuals tell you the compatability (CD-R, CD+R, or +/-) of their product, it's not always prominent but is usually listed somewhere. That's how I found out my GM car could only accept only CD+R while my computer burner was CD-R which my Ford truck could play, now I know which type blank discs to purchase but still cannot burn anything to play in the car.

[Doubledee]

Hi all fellow coaster producers,

After churning out many coasters trying to complie a mp3 CD to work without stopping, skipping or not working at all on my FLHTCUSE2, I eventually stumbled across a method that now works for me which others may want to try:

Using Nero v 10(haven't tried other programmes but I see no reasons why it shouldn't if the following method is followed).
Use a good quality CD-RW disc(Verbatim CD-RW 2x-4x compatible). Makes sense as it can be re-used if you want to change/update your playlist
Write speed set to 4X(common for most RW discs).
Disc at once(not track at once).
Multi-session disc(deselect this option).
Please try this method and let us know if it works for you then we can include it with the "Sticky threads"

Thats it folks.
Works perfect-for me.
Cheers,
Doubledee.