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[Fullsac Performance]

Jerry, I checked with EVO Industries about their clutch and primary driven gear baskets a few years ago.  Back then they had an aluminum setup with new primary chain for about $325.00.  They found many issues with parts made from aluminum and have stopped making that kit.  They now offer the kit with either complete kit with new clutch, clutch basket, primary chain etc or just the primary chain and clutch basket.  Their new basket has a 49T driven sprocket and that gives about an 8% lower gear overall, similar to the 30T output belt sprocket change.  They said with bikes using the TTS Mastertune system, changing settings to "adjust" the rpm in the ECM to match again with the cruise and 6th gear light, is not a big deal, just like recalibrating the speedo settings with the same TTS system when changing to the 30T output sprocket.

Some say that the increased rpm between the clutch and compensator will make the primary chain noisier and that would be noticeable.  Myself, I can't see that change as a big deal.  It will allow very basic changes in "hard" parts like sprockets and chain versus pulley sprocket and belts from aftermarket.  The pricing for the EVO Ind kit went up a lot, I think around $600.00, but you do not have to break into the inner primary or trans output to do the work.

There are several options, as well as the Baker solutions in their DD6 kit and DD7 kit.

Or just doing what Steve has done on his bike with the reinforced rear axle slots retaining the original HD belt.

Great and accurate info Dan.
A few years back when the primary gearing kits first showed up, I was all fired up about trying one on my own bike. I good customer beat me to it and rode in with one
installed in his new 103 LTD. The new whirring noise coming from the primary ended that idea for me. I believe it has something to do with the larger clutch basket causing a steeper angle for the primary chain to travel across the OEM tensioner. If you do not have compression releases, another consideration would be harder starting. The lower primary gearing forces the starter to spin the motor faster during cranking. This would also increase work load on the already problamatic compensator. For me, all these potential issues put it out of my comfort zone and back to the belt and pulley re-gear. And as we all know, the aftermarket belt quality has taken the simplicity from this method of re-gearing as well.
At present, the Tri Glide pulley, OEM belt and a modified swingarm still remain inexpensive, silent and most importantly on any of my rides, trouble free.  

Steve George
Fullsac Performance

[North Star]

Look like this thread turned into a discussion about sprockets and belts.

I was hoping to get some more responses from the affected people, because I'm sure we can figure out where the issue is if everybody responds to the questions I posed, then we don't have to all panic and speculate over the reasons why.

So far, I posted timtoolman's responses in the Q&A format- can anyone else who had a broken belt help out here?

[RCFlyer]

I just installed a chain drive system from 3guys.  I hopped up my engine to a 124 cu in and I'm guessing it'll put out 140hp or so.  I have a Softail Convertible which only came with a 3/4" wide rear drive belt.  I didn't want to take any chances breaking belts so I went straight to chain. I know it's not about pulley size change but I'd thought I'd let you know what I did.  Ratios are pretty close to stock.  I haven't ridden it yet. I bought the extra heavy duty kit.

Link to 3Guys:

http://www.3guyz.com/index.php?option=com_rokecwid&view=ecwid&Itemid=65#ecwid:category=1575047&mode=category&offset=0&sort=normal