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[ltank]

Hi,
I am planning to have my son's 2006 FXST 88 TC with a 40 mm CV carb. It will have 3.875" flat top pistons, new cylinders, DN TC510 cam, new lifters, chain tensioners and chains, harley .045" head gaskets (mech will not guarentee any other. Adjustable pushrods, dyno jet carb kit. These parts cost alot of money still have labor to pull motor, hop it up and renstall and tune it.
  Will the stock Harley ignition module work OK on a mild build? Trying to save a few bucks. Spent most all my money on my FXR S&S V111
Will Python 3 Staggered Duals from a EVO work on a TC? I think that the port angles and size of the exhaust are the same. Just need new mounting brackets made?
Any advice is appreciated?

[cahdbiker]

Itank, this is kind of the reverse of what you did. I put stock HD Screamin Eagle staggerred duals  from a twin cam 88 on my 95 Heritage.(my 95 has an S&S 107 ) The only thing I had to do was make a small rectangular bracket to lower the point where the pipes mount to the frame to keep them away from the saddlebags.  I tried to take a picture for you, but it wasn't detailed enough. I also had twin cam 88 pipes  on it when it still had the 80 cubic inch engine. I don't think you will have a problem making the swap. Good Luck CAHDBIKER

[99fatboy]

Yes, if the compression is left alone. You never said what compression you were trying to get. I have flat top pistons that are rated at 10.1 That in a TC can spell issues if yor not using enough duration to fight off detonation, then it could still be an issue. The squash plays a factor in detonation as well, .045 wont get the proper squash. Put an oil cooler on it that helps. I don't own a TC but last I new the stock ignition timming could not be adjusted.

[99fatboy]

Just hit me, dyno jet carb kit. No no don't do it! Put a jet needle from a 1996 Sportster in it. Drill the slide vacuum hole to 1/8". Put the slide spring out of the screamin eagle 44mm carb part number 27728-99, stock spring pressure is 200/290 grams vrs 130/210 so your throttle response will be quicker. Use a 200 main and a 48 pilot, turn the air fuel mixture screw out 1.50 turns. I guaranty great performave with out the fuel milage lost using the dyno jet kit!! I've proved to many times the mod I gave you just now is better! And it cost less than $40.00 bucks. Give this information to the man doing the carb and don't let him talk you out of it. The sporster needle is 1/32 shorter than the stock and a bit thinner. The dyno jet kit let's you place a shim on the needle to change it's height and if they get it to high kiss your gas milage bye bye. And the kit is a rip off for it price, last I new it was $120.00. I did a TC 88 this way for a friends 2000 heritage softail, the dealer did the dyno jet kit for another friends 2000 wide glide. They were neck to neck passing cars and in hard throttle ups, and my mod got aroun 5 miles per gallon better on average. And the man on the heritage is a very big man compared to the dyna Rider.

[ltank]

The Harley 95" pistons in book show 9.4:1 CR. Using what head gaskets?  I looked at Daytona Twin-Tec was too expensive (260 to 330) I found a Harley Screamin’ Eagle® 6200RPM Ignition Module  31788-04 for 84 bucks that is not adjustable but price is reasonable. The Dave Mackie TC510 cam is like a cross between the Andrews 37 and the S.E 204. I had the EVO version of this cam (exact same specs) in a 80" EVO, stock heads, compression and 40mm CV with dynojet with stock ignition. I ran great. I think it will good in the 95" TC. Stock ignition or S.E.?

[99fatboy]

Read this about ignitions is my best advice. I won't give an opinion on a TC ignition seeing I've done little research on them.

http://www.mikuni.com/pg_ignition.html

My Evo is a stage 3. Wisco 10:1, Crane H-286-2B advanced. My carb mod, and cycle shack staggered duals. My wrench used a thinner head gasket to lower the squash and then a thicker base gasket to keep the piston travel to keep the 10:1. He uses Cometic race gaskets, the only way to go.

I get 45-48 on interstate running 65-70 depending on the wind. And 52- 55 on secondary roads depending on wind and hills going 55- 60. I've seen as low as 38 pulling my trailer two up on interstate and as high as 42. It all depends on wind and hills. I've got as low as 45 on secondary pulling my trailer 2 up and as high as 50. Once again, hills and wind plays a factor.

The dyno jet kit is a needle change with options for shimming the needle. It also drills the slide and uses a lighter spring. It changes the emulsion tube to use its personal jet. The emulsion tube has fewer air holes in it so it makes the air fuel mixture richer by taking air from the mixture. It works, its just not economical for what it does when my mod does the same thing and is less, and gets better mileage. I did a throttle up when i was still stage 1 with a stage 1 Custom Softail. Dyno jet kit, I got a bit of a jump on him and kept that 1/2 bike lead. I can't remember what it was because it was years ago, after talking he said his mileage was not quit as good as mine.

I told you 1996 because if you go to the parts man and ask for a sportster 1200 needle they will ask you what year. They never changed them they are all the same. So just ask for the 1996 that's what I do.

If you can do your own carb mod, do mine. If you want to make your wallet lighter by using they dyno jet kit go for it. I assure you your seat of the pants will not feel or see the dyno jet kit as being better! You shim the needle to much and you will feel your wallet get lighter at the gas pump.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

That's odd.
We have had great results, with the Stage 7 Thunderslide kits here, in the application we've used them in.
Scott

[99fatboy]

That's odd.
We have had great results, with the Stage 7 Thunderslide kits here, in the application we've used them in.
Scott

For less money and the same results my mod is more practical. I've seen the disappointment in the lower fuel milage and no visable results that matter over my mod. I've done several my way and one perso removed the dyno jet kit from his RK he bought used and replaced it with my mod. My mod is cheaper and it works great. No more cold starts and sneezing, very quick throttle response, and the gas milage is not hurt like the dyno jet kit can do if you over shim the needle. Dyno jet kit does give better then stock throttle response but it's not worth the cost over mine.

[captdave221]

I will never drill a slide again. Never have seen it help on the dyno or the feel of the response when blipping the throttle or while riding. Just my opinion after installing hundreds (literally) of kits from various mfg.'s. The Keihin rejet kit is the best kit out there for the money

[99fatboy]

I will never drill a slide again. Never have seen it help on the dyno or the feel of the response when blipping the throttle or while riding. Just my opinion after installing hundreds (literally) of kits from various mfg.'s. The Keihin rejet kit is the best kit out there for the money

Thanks for the info on drilling the slide, I did it along side changing the needle and spring. It always was kind of a headach making sure the drill shavings were cleaned out. As far as needle changing I was also told it takes a very experienced dyno turner to get different results from changing it. I use the Spoorster needle because it is rich enough off idle I have better cold riding departure time with no sneezing. Yesterday it was 48 degrees, less then 1 minute I had my enricher in and locked my throttle at 1 grand, 1 minute later I left with no sneezing and no hesitation in slight throttle movement. My mod is less expensive then the kits and works great! I've had no complaints in the dozens of bikes I've done like this.  Every one that leaves for their first test ride can't believe how quick their throttle is after my mod, and report faster warm ups and better cold departure times with no sneezing. I offer a less expensive version by my mod that simply works!

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We have never drilled the slide, nor do we have re-jetted CV's, nor CV's with the use of the Dynojet kits, have odd characteristics, once we turn the client loose.
The Stage 7 Thunderslide kits do work VERY well.
Scott

[ltank]

95" kit installed. Starts fine but seems to spit some when letting off the throttle. Only have a few miles so far. I called the shop and he said it will be OK to continue ridining  it is Sat night 4/7/2012 can get to shop Monday 4/9/2012. I was told that the slow jet was a little too slow. The 190 jet was used out of the kit. The Dynojet kit did not have a slow jet. it said you must use the stock slow jet. Will this kill the new motor?
 The Python 3 pipes from my2000 FXR4 worked fine modified stock bracket. My Son looks happy.
Thanks,
Ltank

[99fatboy]

Ltank, turn your air fuel mixture screw out 1/4 turn if that doesn't do It go another 1/4 turn. If you've been following this post you'll see I'm not a dyno jet kit fan. The kit relies on needle shim position and some wrenches shim to high from the start and poor fuel milage is the end result from being a tad rich. In your case it seems not enough and your bottom end is a tad lean. My mod works and it's right the first time! I just did another carb yesterday. The dyno jet kit makes some happy and others not so happy. I've only taken 3 out and wish my friend would let me take his out, but he thinks his wrench at the dealership is the best and it's what they use. But, my friend wonders why is milage is terrible compared to everyone else!!!!