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[RedBeast]

I have an '07 CVO Road King with 1200 miles. (previous owner stored it 5 years and sold to me with 58 original miles).  Anyway, I bought a pair of Kuryakyn Crusher slip-ons ($500), and the TTS MasterTune ($400) and the set of cables ($90).  I went to the Kuryakyn website and downloaded their map of an '07 FLHRSE3 with Crusher mufflers.  Ran pretty good with their map.  However, I was a bit embarrassed by the frequent "decel pop."

Okay, now I start a 2-month search for someone with a dyno that also uses the TTS MasterTune.  Finally, Vickie from TTS Sport Systems found me an independent about 30 minutes away.  Spell cha-ching and add another $300 for the dyno for the sole purpose of getting rid of the decel pop.

As I drove home with the decel pop now triple the popping (frequency and volume) it had before the dyno, I wondered how much explosives it would take to turn the bike into 800 pounds of thumb tacks.

The bike is bone stock '07 CVO Road King 110 c.i., except with the additon of the Kuryakyn Crushers.  As stated, my tuner is the TTS MasterTune.

Does anyone have this same setup?  Do you have decel popping?  Lastly, do you have a dyno tech who stopped, or greatly reduced, the decel popping?  I need someone in SE Michigan, or NW Ohio area.

All replies are appreciated.  This is my first post and I hope to have a great time here.  If I can help any of you, I am a master detailer.  No kidding....to the "nth" degree!

Looking forward to many great discussions.

Eric
'10 XL1200 Low
'06 V-Rod in Fusion Red Grind radical paint set
'02 Softail Deuce you have to see to believe
'07 FLHRSE3 in Razor Red

[Steve Cole]

Popping can be caused by many things and you have to start by checking all the basic things and making sure they are OK prior to thinking your going to solve it in tuning. The TTS Mastertune is just the tool to work with for tuning. Have you started by checking it for exhaust leaks as that is the most commonly over-looked issue. What you need to do is find a friend to help you, a three foot piece of 5/16" or 3/8" rubber hose and a few bundles of rags. With the bike at normal idle speed have the friend try to plug the exhaust with the rags. This will create pressure in the exhaust and cause the leaks to be easier to find. You take one end of the hose and put it up to your ear and run the other end of the hose around every joint on the exhaust system and any place welds were made on the exhaust. As the exhaust is plugged up with rags you will here a hiss or change in the hose very quickly if you have a leak. Your friend is only going to be able to hold the rags for about 20 - 30 seconds as they warm up so just be prepared for it to take a few times as you work your way from the front to the back. No harm will come to the bike from doing this.

Also since it's an '07 bike there are some issues with the way the head pipes are made on the rear cylinder but until you check it out for leaks we can leave that alone for the time being. Report back after you done the test and we can move forward from there.

[glens]

I don't have the depth of experience with this stuff that Steve has, but my experience would lead me to consider the primary cause being the design of the stock headers while running an open(er) pipe on the left side.  You see, the system works more like a 2-into-1 at times and actually draws fresh air back through an open left muffler and right across the rear O2 sensor.  Probably the best option is replacing the head pipes but a less costly route is to close down the inlet of the left side muffler so that it doesn't flow so freely.  If you note where the rear O2 sensor is, you'll come to the conclusion that the primary flow for the rear cylinder exhaust is to the right anyway.

Fullsac.com still offers, I believe, an economical way to convert the stock pipes into a "true dual" system.

I would think that $300 spent on a professional tune would include however many follow-ups it required to get the bike running correctly.  If there's additional expense for shop time to cure a problem that can't be fixed by merely adjusting the ECM calibration, so be it, but this should have been discussed with you at the time the deal was made.

[RedBeast]

Steve and Glens:  I really appreciate your great posts.  What terrific advice and technical info!  I won't have time to work on these for a few days.  In the meantime, thanks very much.  I did not expect this quality of expertise, but I'll sure take it.  I'll get back to you with an update.  Some day I'll try to return the favor.  Later....Eric