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[RayG]

I may not be explaining myself correctly but I was wondering if there are specs to the straightness of the rear wheel?  I put the bike on my lift and ran the front tire against a clamped wooded rod and it didn't wobble a bit.  When I did the same procedure to the rear it had quite a bit of wobble to it.  I can make up a clamp and use a dial indicator if necessary.  Last spring I hit a small I Beam with my front wheel and had everything replaced under my wheel & tire plan.  I did not think to have the rear checked as it appeared OK visually.  The reason I'm concerned is my last two rear tires cupped badly with 3000 miles on them.  I refused to put another tire on it until I could locate the source for the cupping or a replacement tire.  I have put another 3000 miles on this cupped tire and the ride just plain sucks.  Last spring I put new bearings, rotor & pads along with a new rear tire.  I would appreciate any ideas on where to go from here? 

Thanks
Ray G.   

[robertg]

The maximum run out spec for a wheel is usually 0.080 or 2mm, however they are usually way better than that. Cupping is usually caused by under inflation.

[AXIL]

  I think it's 1/32" or about .030 of an inch.

[grc]

Back in 2005 the Harley maximum runout spec for wheels was .030" radial, .040" lateral.  Unless they've used the same approach on wheels that they did a few years back on crankshafts, I'd imagine those numbers are still accurate.

Ray, if you can see obvious lateral runout (wobble) when spinning the wheel, I'd suggest you have the dealer remove the wheel and put it in a truing stand, then check the actual runout.  If it exceeds the specs, I would imagine the ESP should replace it just like it did the front wheel. 

As for the comment about cupping being caused by underinflation, that is but one of the possible causes.  Anything that can cause the tire to scrub can also cause a problem, like alignment, poor suspension, and yes even severe runout.

Jerry

[RayG]

I'll put the bike on the lift and strap her down to get an accurate measurement with a micrometer.  Depending on what it reads I will make a decision to go to a dealer.  I have exhausted most items that can cause cupping, have been on numerous threads.  I have the Traxxion AK-20, second set of 13" Bitubo's. A True Track and check my air pressure weekly and adjust to riding solo or 2 up.  Gauge has been checked at numerous tire stores.  I have had them cup with weights & without using Dyna Beads.  Until I have a good handle on this I don't plan to put Dunlops back on.  I don't do burn out anymore but I do ride very hard in the corners.  I will let you guys know what develops, but I suspect that I'm over the .030 runout. 

Thanks

[FLY-DOG]

Ray,

You do mean you have rim runout not tire runout correct?  You could have tire runout with a concentric rim (bad tire).

[RayG]

It's definitely the rim.  I just checked it yesterday and could not get an accurate measurement.  It's supposed to be close to 60 degrees on Sunday so I plan to run a tank of gas with Seafoam and some in the crankcase prior to my last fluid change.  I'll wash her up and put It on the lift & take the wheel off so then can put it on a truing stand.  I'm guessing it will be more than the allowed amount but expect an uphill battle because that's just the way it has been since day one with 3 different dealers.  I should know more next week.  I'm hoping they replace the wheel and give me some sort of break with another tire.

[RayG]

Well I have all the information and I would like to close this topic correctly.  I have been guilty of starting a post and never seeing it to an end, most of the time it was not an interesting or a valuable topic so they died a lonely death without much input, which is my fault.

The dealer took off the tire because they said they didn't want to have an incorrect reading with the inflated tire.  I asked why didn't you just take the air out?  He went out back to get an answer from the tech. and for a change the response seemed to make sense.  The tire was removed so the rim could be checked thoroughly inside plus they did an up & down measurement.  The run out was as follows, lateral .022 & the radial was .016.  Even though the tire was badly cupped they still reinstalled it and rebalanced it.  I asked him why balance a badly cupped tire? His responce was it still had some thread left and if I could tolerate the ride I could put a few more thousand miles on it.  He told me he has seen guys ride much worse tires than mine. Weird that when it was new it took 5 weights and now it took only 2.  I had a discussion with an employee and said off the record don't you think that a motorcycle tire should have better tolerances during the manufacturing process so they don't require so many weights to balance them properly?  He agreed and said I'm an employee and they needed 8 weights on my rear tire!  I also asked him what they did with the tires that just would not balance?  He said good question but I have no answer for you as I just don't know.  So no tire for for me just yet.  By the way there was no charge for the service.  I may get a second opinion on the side to side measurement over the winter because I think it is worse than what they claim.

So as off this moment I'm waiting to find out if additional tire manufactures will make a tire to fit my SERK, others have propriety needs for tires as well and Dunlop is the only answer for some at this time.  Maybe come spring other manufactures will give us additional choices.

Thanks for all the help & have a Happy Thanksgiving

Ray G.