Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Author Topic: Changing out handlebars & need advice on removing the ingition switch on a CUSE6  (Read 6245 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

danner55

  • Elite CVO Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 723

    • CVO1: 2011 FLHTCUSE6 Big Red "Izzy"
    • CVO2: 1989 FLT TOUR GLIDE CLASSIC
    • CVO3: 1997 Heritage Springer Softail

I'm changing out the handlebars on my 2011 FLHTCUSE6 with a set of Wild Chubby 578's. I got all the manuals so I think I can do the change out. I'm looking for some advice on removing & installing the ignition switch. I know the power lock is not serviceable so I do not want to damage it. I would appreciate some advice on this from some members that have removed the power lock ignition knob & any shortcuts on changing out the handlebars.

Thanks & ride safe!

Dan
« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 05:48:34 PM by danner55 »
Logged
IBA #63514
If you can't run with the big dogs stay home on the porch!

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

With the key in the bike and ignition turned to the on position, reach under ignition and you will find a button. Push while holding key in ignition and the assembly will pull up. There is a green wire attached. Follow it to a plug and unplug it and the whole assembly will come free.

DO not remove cables from resevoirs. Unscrew two screws on each one and remove entire resevior with mirrow and let them hang. I wrapped in old t shirts and zip ties to fork lower.

Also remember to plug the heated grips back in from the adjustment cap before you reinstall the grip on bike its a bear if not and cut 1/2" off the bar so you will not have that gap that some do when they dont follow the wild one website instruction Guide.

No need to remove inner fairing as some will tell you , just loosen all the mounting brackets enough for you to get to back clamp bolts. snip all your zip ties and pull both brake and clutch cables forward before re installing for more room and zip tie them back up after everything is plugged in.
PM me if you get stuck and I'll give you my cell number. Not that hard at all Brother. Good luck you will love these bars.
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

Correction turn ignition to lock position and keep bars strait. My bad a little dislexic
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

danner55

  • Elite CVO Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 723

    • CVO1: 2011 FLHTCUSE6 Big Red "Izzy"
    • CVO2: 1989 FLT TOUR GLIDE CLASSIC
    • CVO3: 1997 Heritage Springer Softail

Thanks, Brian!
After talking to you last week I'm doing all the research to do the change out. I didn't want to call you about removing the ignition switch.

I'm planning on changing them out next week & I have your number if I have a problem.

Thanks, Dan
Logged
IBA #63514
If you can't run with the big dogs stay home on the porch!

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

Anytime buddy.
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

Cvostu

  • 5k CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5136

    • CVO1: 2023 Whiskey Neat road glide custom
    • CVO2: 2019 Mako Shark Fade road glide custom

That Brian sure knows his stuff  8)
Logged

Jswerve

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4149

    • CVO1: 2012 FLHXSE3
Logged


2012 FLHXSE3 Ruby Red/Typhoon Maroon
|Color Matched Detachable Tour Pak | Fuelmoto PV | Dragos 580 cams | Dragula 2-1/Ghost Pipe | Cyclesmith 13's | Sachs heads | Yaffe Stealth III License Plate Frame| Long Angled High

dayne66

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4037
    • BC


    • CVO1: '12 Ruby/Typhoon SG
    • CVO2: '15 Superior Blue FLD Switchback

Also remember to plug the heated grips back in from the adjustment cap before you reinstall the grip on bike its a bear if not and cut 1/2" off the bar so you will not have that gap that some do when they don't follow the wild one website instruction Guide.

I assume this applies to the 575s as well.

If 1/2" off the left side...then I guess the bars should be moved 1/4" to the left as well, to keep thing perfectly centered...right?


They say left on the website.....but, the throttle is on the right side...WTF?
« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 08:34:33 PM by dayne66 »
Logged
"The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." Socrates

dayne66

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4037
    • BC


    • CVO1: '12 Ruby/Typhoon SG
    • CVO2: '15 Superior Blue FLD Switchback


That video shows the switch knob being removed from the locked position...I want to do this while the bike is on the lift table and the front tire is clamped straight ahead...possible?
Logged
"The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." Socrates

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

The left side is where the heated grip controller is which requires more room thats why they say to cut 1/2" off and they are 100% correct. I did not move my 578's over a 1/4" I can't tell the difference and I think the 578's are also 2" wider than the 575's. If you dont have heated grips then you are ok without cutting. Also a standard size copper tubing cutter works best for this cutting because there is no burs in the pipe or shavings and its a clean strait cut.
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

dayne66

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4037
    • BC


    • CVO1: '12 Ruby/Typhoon SG
    • CVO2: '15 Superior Blue FLD Switchback

The left side is where the heated grip controller is which requires more room thats why they say to cut 1/2" off and they are 100% correct. I did not move my 578's over a 1/4" I can't tell the difference and I think the 578's are also 2" wider than the 575's. If you dont have heated grips then you are ok without cutting. Also a standard size copper tubing cutter works best for this cutting because there is no burs in the pipe or shavings and its a clean strait cut.
Thanks, Brian.....I'll be installing Heat demons so I guess I don't need to cut...but, then there's a gap, right?
Logged
"The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." Socrates

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

Dayne,

Yes on the stand handlebar strait. I wouldn't lift High though and try to keep the front wheel from moving. And the two back radio screws are a bear use strait ball allen keys is the trick. Cover your front Fender with heavy blanket and Blue tape your fork cowbells to avoid the inner fairing brackets from scratcing while moving it forward. Sorry, just things comming to me as im typing. Better safe than sorry
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

CVO Brian

  • Full CVO Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 242
  • Baggers- Not just for grandpa anymore

    • CVO1: 2012 CVO Ultra Orange and Black

Dayne

Not sure what a heat demon is buddy. If you dont have heated grips from Harley you will not need to cut and there will be no gap.
Logged
V&H True Duals
Rinehart 4" Chrome Pipes
Trucklite ph 7 w/ passing lamps
Pollished front rotors
SE Race Tuner
SE Chisel Air Cleaner
Wild1 Chubby 578 10" Bars
TP Removal System
CVO SG Stretch Bags and Rear Fender
CVO SG 110 Derby Cover

dayne66

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4037
    • BC


    • CVO1: '12 Ruby/Typhoon SG
    • CVO2: '15 Superior Blue FLD Switchback

http://www.heatdemons.com/Harley-Davidson-Grip-Warmers_c_93.html

...I've had enough of the HD junk in the past.

Thanks for all the tips....with them and a slow deliberate pace, all should go well.
Logged
"The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." Socrates

Jswerve

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4149

    • CVO1: 2012 FLHXSE3

That video shows the switch knob being removed from the locked position...I want to do this while the bike is on the lift table and the front tire is clamped straight ahead...possible?

No, once you remove it you can use a homemade tool to unlock it so you can move it back and forth. I just did it when I installed new handlebars. Very easy.
Logged


2012 FLHXSE3 Ruby Red/Typhoon Maroon
|Color Matched Detachable Tour Pak | Fuelmoto PV | Dragos 580 cams | Dragula 2-1/Ghost Pipe | Cyclesmith 13's | Sachs heads | Yaffe Stealth III License Plate Frame| Long Angled High
 

Page created in 0.154 seconds with 25 queries.