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[Mr John DEUFF]

I've changed the inner cam bearing on my 2007 110' FLHTCUSE2 (replaced Ina for torrington), I have also changed the tappets (Feuling) and the chains tensioner (the one of the camshaft was really tired).
But now the motor start and turn just with the rear cylinder. I have checked all the connectives, the spark plugs are new but the front one doesn't have any spark. There is no DTC.
So if there is someone who had this kind of trouble, or any clue to help me please let me know because I am really disappointed...

[Doc 1]

Do a compression test....if the Crank Position sensor doesn't see compression in a cylinder it will not deliver a spark. If you installed new lifters or even had the pushrods out it is possible you installed the rods in backwards or adjusted adjustable rods wrong that will keep a valve open. I also seen where a push rod deosn't seat in the cup of the rocker arm and this too will keep a valve off the seat.
Good luck
Doc

[longlast]

Also could be the forward lifters (if changed) or not is not purged with oil (lifters can get an air lock) this could hold a vale open just enough off the seat. The lifters have to be purged of air or you'll have a hell of a time adjusting the push rods. Quote,.. from Doc compression test, no compression recheck lifters and adjustment. Don't get discouraged man you'll sort it. 

[Mr John DEUFF]

@ Longlast: How can you know if the lifter is purged or not?
@ Doc1: how do you know if the push rod are in backwards I haven't seen a front or rear sign? The only sign on the pushrod is the hole on the side of it and it's not written in the instructions where this hole has to be, so I think it's not really important.

[Doc 1]

@ Longlast: How can you know if the lifter is purged or not?
@ Doc1: how do you know if the push rod are in backwards I haven't seen a front or rear sign? The only sign on the pushrod is the hole on the side of it and it's not written in the instructions where this hole has to be, so I think it's not really important.

Are the push rods adjustable or stock? If they are stock the dark push rod is the exhaust and the light one is the intake. If you have the orginal SE adjustables (not the new tappered set) the exhaust and intake are different at the rocker side tip....the exhaust has a longer relief at the tip compaired to the intake.
Another thing that could have went wrong (if you have adjustables) is turning the engine over before the lifter had time to bleed off....this will run the valve into the piston and bend the valve enough to loose compression. Do a compression test.

[longlast]

          A new lifter will not have any oil in them. You have to put them into (submerge) a oil bath, take a rod and push down on the centre of the lifter to bottom out the lifter plunger. When doing this you will see little air bubbles coming out of the lifter "it takes a bit of force to push the plunger", repeat this 3'4'5' times till there are no more bubbles. Then the lifter is purged with oil..

Not to sure what Doc means on the rods being in backwards, But it is possible for the rod not to be in the cup at the back of the rocker arm. On adjustment of the rod, turn the adjuster to the point it is just snug so you can spin the rod with your fingers and no up and down movement,..Lifter should be on the rocking point of the cam when doing this, then hold the bottom part of rod from turning, turn the adjuster 6 flats down(a flat being one of the six flats of the adjuster hex) and lock down. you should not be able to spin the rod now. Hope this helps ya out man  

[longlast]

Are the push rods adjustable or stock? If they are stock the dark push rod is the exhaust and the light one is the intake. If you have the orginal SE adjustables (not the new tappered set) the exhaust and intake are different at the rocker side tip....the exhaust has a longer relief at the tip compaired to the intake.
Another thing that could have went wrong (if you have adjustables) is turning the engine over before the lifter had time to bleed off....this will run the valve into the piston and bend the valve enough to loose compression. Do a compression test.

[/b]

Thats a true statement, worst case synaerial. Mr John check this link may give ya some insite it's a bit more  then what you've gone but it covers were your at.

[Mr John DEUFF]

I have the stock not the adjustable push rods. One of my friend have told me the same thing as you: I could have inversed the black and the silver one I have to go and check that tomorrow, that would be a great thing if it is that simple!
I'll let you know!

[Doc 1]

I have the stock not the adjustable push rods. One of my friend have told me the same thing as you: I could have inversed the black and the silver one I have to go and check that tomorrow, that would be a great thing if it is that simple!
I'll let you know!

I'm sure it's that simple....

[Mr John DEUFF]

OK so I have the answer of my mystery: exhaust valve is dead!
I have checked the compression and there was nothing on the front cylinder so I have opened the header and saw the problem. The problem certainly came from the bad alignment added at the S&S tappet which needed adjustable pushrods (and I haven't seen it  ). So now I just have to put a new valve and I hope it will be OK!
Sometimes we have to learn from our mistakes. 

[johnsachs]

If your valve is very badly bent, you better check the hotside of the guide for a crack/s.
John

[Mr John DEUFF]

Thanks John I have checked it and everything else is OK. The valve was not that bent but couldn't close normally.

[porthole]

If your valve is very badly bent, you better check the hotside of the guide for a crack/s.
John

Like this?

[Mr John DEUFF]

  I'm happy this is not mine!