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[RayG]

I'm in the process of ordering all the parts I need for installing the new 2014 compensator.  I have read that you can use any of the rotors that came with the older Screamin Eagle Compensator kits.  The parts list in the catalog states that the installation requires the use of part number 30041-08.  Well I have the 08 & the 08A.  Looking at them closely they seem to be the same rotor.  I took off the rotor yesterday that I purchased in January of 2013 and stamped on it reads 01-13-11.   The older one was removed when the 08 was installed,  that one removed was really damaged.  It was purchased in 2011 and is stamped 01-04-13.  So the older one is stamped with the 2013 date and the newer one which is the 30041-08 is stamped with 2011.  The 08 rotor also has T50610 stamped on the face, other than that they look identical.   There is no possible way that they were mixed up as I wrote on the older one with a sharpie & had a tag on it.  I guess this confirms that we can't use any numbers stamped on the parts for identification. 

Since I plan to use the unit I removed I was wondering it is suitable as it has a small wear mark on the inside. 

Any help would be appreciated as I plan to order the parts Monday morning so I can put it back together.

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

I did not realize that I already had correct rotor with my 08A. It is identical to the one stamped 30041-08A but with 07-16-13 date stamped on it. I used my original since I could not slip the rotor off without engaging the lower part of the inner primary where it would get stuck each try. Got tired of trying and just kept the old one in place. All worked out well with exception that I have an extra new $100.00 rotor.

[RayG]

Like you I decided to use the older rotor on the new compensator install.  It was in good shape so why not.  I decide to purchase a new 2014 primary cover since the older one had some slight damage on it.  I'll sell the chrome primary and the plastic parts that come with the 2014 comp kit to offset the cost of the new primary.  The glued in part may hold up forever but my luck has not gone well so I decided to go the route I did.  One has to wonder what the guys use that ride the crap out of their big HP bikes, do they just install a new comp when needed and just chalk it up to regular maintenance?   I read on another forum where a guy just replaces his every winter as part of his regular maintenance since he describes them as relatively cheap.  After installing the 4th one I don't regard them as cheap maintenance.   

I don't understand why you were not able to remove the rotor, maybe there was some metal on the cases which prevented you from pulling it out.  I inserted two Allen head wrenches attached to small vise grips and it pulled out nicely.  That gave me the chance to inspect the inside for wear grooves & remove all the small metal filings that were attached to the rotor.   The next time you have the inner primary off you may want to see if some minor grinding will allow you to remove the rotor with the inner still on.   Just a thought.    Good luck with your install & hopefully we will never have to do another one.   

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

I almost went ahead and ground the inner ridge of the primary off so the rotor would come off but since the old one only had about 7000 miles on it, I felt safe to keep it. Also, on the glued on part, next time I am in the primary I am going to drill a small hole through the outer cover and through the plastic tray and install a small chrome button head bolt for security. Hardly noticeable as it is right at the floorboard.

[Twolanerider]

I almost went ahead and ground the inner ridge of the primary off so the rotor would come off but since the old one only had about 7000 miles on it, I felt safe to keep it. Also, on the glued on part, next time I am in the primary I am going to drill a small hole through the outer cover and through the plastic tray and install a small chrome button head bolt for security. Hardly noticeable as it is right at the floorboard.

Which will be good until the added pressure, contact area or whatever causes the plastic piece to crack and break later when it otherwise might not have.  Or the new but on the inside comes loose then gets caught in the chain.

No idea if any of this will actually happen.  But it is a robust glue and that law of unintended consequences is always looking to bite someone in the ass.

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

As I understand it, there is no contact area. Just hot oil being slung on the tray and running down and dumping on the compensator lubricating the comp properly for the first time ever. However, we will find out any bad reports on the new comp set up as this guys on this site don't miss anything.

[Twolanerider]

As I understand it, there is no contact area.

Was actually thinking about the small bit of compression and contact area against the plastic by the washer and its retaining nut that you were considering adding.  The plastic has to get old and more brittle eventually.  Just another of the billions of things to worry about.

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

With 38,000 miles on the clock, if it goes, it goes. If any future problems causing damage, may be time for the 120R. We will see.

[RayG]

I'm with Don on this one, I would not install the screw at this time.  If you were going to install a screw it would have had a better chance of everything bonding if it would have been done on the install.   If the surface was as clean as you mentioned in another post it should hold up without any issues.   It would be a huge embarrassment if a large number would fail causing the Moco to put it's tail between it's legs once again.  I believe your good to go.  I'm picking up my new Torque wrench and should be doing the install Monday or Tuesday.  I'm going to try the Hayden chain tensioner at the same time.  But it's getting darn cold out here & I'm not as eager to freeze my butt off as I used to be.   

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

I did several tests on the extra plastic tray by bonding it onto a pc of aluminum stock. After a week, I hung a 50# weight on the plastic tray with piano wire placing the force sideways. No problem, held well. Just the other day I picked up the glued unit that I had experimented with and applied heavy force on the plastic with my thumb directly away from the aluminum. The plastic tray broke off clean from the glue itself leaving a very smooth surface. The glue itself stayed fast to the aluminum and I could not pound it off. I am wondering if in the future other installers should scuff up the back and sides of the plastic tray prior to gluing just to give it more adhesion? Just a thought.

[grc]

I did several tests on the extra plastic tray by bonding it onto a pc of aluminum stock. After a week, I hung a 50# weight on the plastic tray with piano wire placing the force sideways. No problem, held well. Just the other day I picked up the glued unit that I had experimented with and applied heavy force on the plastic with my thumb directly away from the aluminum. The plastic tray broke off clean from the glue itself leaving a very smooth surface. The glue itself stayed fast to the aluminum and I could not pound it off. I am wondering if in the future other installers should scuff up the back and sides of the plastic tray prior to gluing just to give it more adhesion? Just a thought.

Unless a part breaks off in the primary and happens to hit the plastic tray, I don't think you will see the same forces in real life that you applied in your test.  What I would consider to be a more valid test would be to immerse the test piece in primary oil and then heat and cool it many times to see if the oil and/or the temperature changes weaken the bond.  I would hope that Harley and the adhesive manufacturer would have covered this base as well.  As you said, eventually Harley management might become embarrassed by all the screw-ups if they keep screwing up.  On the other hand, fear of screwing up hasn't seemed to make any difference previously.  It has been seven years since they came out with the new primary design, and a whole lot of lies and BS and screwing customers and redesigns of the parts to finally get to this stage, and they don't seem embarrassed enough to provide the latest revision for free to those they've been screwing around for the past seven years.

I would not drill the primary cover and install a machine screw and nut.  You may create more problems than you think you're preventing.  Oil leaks, cracking the plastic tray, having the nut come loose inside the primary, all sorts of things could happen.  If I were you, and I knew I had done the cleaning and prep and adhesive application properly, I would just leave well enough alone.  The worst that can happen is the tray come loose and get destroyed by the primary chain.  If we were talking about a metal tray then I'd be more concerned.

JMHO - Jerry

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

Well said. Good points. I should be more concerned about replacing noisy lifters. Got all the parts but just need to slow down and do the job. Thanks for all correspondence on subject.