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Author Topic: symptoms of bad tbw  (Read 2418 times)

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dirtdobber

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symptoms of bad tbw
« on: October 27, 2013, 08:53:53 PM »

I have been trying to get my bike tuned with the PCV and Auto tuner. Every time I get it working good it seems ti will revert back, Map does not change just performance.
I noticed that the tbw when rolling the throttle backwards to cut off the rear cylinder it doesn't sound like it did when new. In other words the idle stays the same where before it changed. Then after using it the engine starts to spit back through the breather and some times dies or stumbles. It is a lot less when I do not use the tbw mode to cut the rear cylinder off.
It has a hesitation from 2,000/2,200 to 2,500 then clears up.
This is a 2012 CVO street glide with 18,000 miles
Has catless headers, PCV w/at.
Other than that it runs great, MPG is about normal. No serious change. Doesn't run hot, pulls good after hitting 2,500rpm
I am going to have it tuned by a pro but I wanted to see if there is anything I can do to check the tbw. It is not throwing any codes.

Any idea's
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2012 CVO street glide, 2010 Dyna wide glide SS 106

hdbrad03

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Re: symptoms of bad tbw
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2013, 09:01:09 PM »

Sounds like it is running lean. Check for ECM codes.


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dirtdobber

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Re: symptoms of bad tbw
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2013, 01:22:29 PM »

There are no codes.
If it is running lean it would surprise me as cool as it runs.
The reason I believe it is a tbw problem because of the way it acts when I cut off the rear cylinder. It isn't doing like it did whne I got it. If I do not cut off the rear cylinder it rarely spits through the ac. But when I do use it it happens often.

I want to make sure it is normal before I spend the money on a tune and find out it doesn't help.
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2012 CVO street glide, 2010 Dyna wide glide SS 106

grc

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Re: symptoms of bad tbw
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2013, 01:55:38 PM »


The Engine Idle Temperature Management System, or EITMS, is the system you're talking about, not the electronic throttle (tbw).  And just rolling the throttle grip forward doesn't cause the EITMS to engage whenever you do so.  Rolling the throttle grip forward at idle with the bike sitting still, and holding it until the cruise light flashes either red or green, is how you turn the automatic system on or off.  But it doesn't actually shut the rear cylinder down until all the parameters are met, which include engine temps over 287°F if I remember correctly, throttle at idle, bike sitting still, etc.  If you are rolling the throttle forward thinking it will instantly cut off the rear cylinder, that's only going to be true if the ECM gets all the proper inputs saying the system should be engaged, and of course if the automatic system is turned on.  If the engine temp is below the threshold, twisting that grip all you want won't cause the rear cylinder to shut down.  If your attempts at tuning have richened up the mixture enough to suppress engine temps, that can explain why the EITMS kicked in often previously but not so much now.  Check your owner's manual for exactly how the EITMS works and how to enable it or disable it.  I think you will find what I've said above is true.

It sounds like you need to do some diagnostics first and then get the tune dialed in.  You may have a problem related to the Power Commander itself.  Funny how those "Auto Tune" products aren't so automatic.  Disconnect the PCV and see how the bike runs with just the regular ECM.

Jerry
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