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[lilcoot]

I rode my 'sickle ('13 Ultra, almost 5000 miles) from LA to San Jose for work this week, and a problem has popped up.  This morning on my way to work, the check engine light and battery light came on.  The voltage meter was hovering around 11.5 to 12 volts.  It's always been at 14+ volts.  The bike ran fine.  

I have a couple questions.

Of course, my owners manual is at home.  Again, how do I check for error/trouble codes?

I recently installed a Wards Parts Werks fan.  Checked all connections, everything looks fine.  Could it be the voltage regulator going bad?  I know there were problems with voltage regulators in the '12 bikes.  What are the signs/symptoms of a bad regulator?

For those of you in the San Jose area, who do you recommend to do warranty work?  House of Thunder and San Jose HD are close, but I haven't heard very positive reports about their service depts.  Is Oakland or San Francisco any better, or worth the drive?  Are there any local private shops that can do warranty work?  

Of course, it's Friday night, so I might be stuck 'til Monday.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

[Twolanerider]

I rode my 'sickle ('13 Ultra, almost 5000 miles) from LA to San Jose for work this week, and a problem has popped up.  This morning on my way to work, the check engine light and battery light came on.  The voltage meter was hovering around 11.5 to 12 volts.  It's always been at 14+ volts.  The bike ran fine.  

I have a couple questions.

Of course, my owners manual is at home.  Again, how do I check for error/trouble codes?

I recently installed a Wards Parts Werks fan.  Checked all connections, everything looks fine.  Could it be the voltage regulator going bad?  I know there were problems with voltage regulators in the '12 bikes.  What are the signs/symptoms of a bad regulator?

For those of you in the San Jose area, who do you recommend to do warranty work?  House of Thunder and San Jose HD are close, but I haven't heard very positive reports about their service depts.  Is Oakland or San Francisco any better, or worth the drive?  Are there any local private shops that can do warranty work?  

Of course, it's Friday night, so I might be stuck 'til Monday.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

Does sound like a charging system problem as an initial guess Dan.  You might be only a half hour or so away from HD-Dude's shop in Hayward. 

http://www.metaldragonhd.com/

[Trapperdog]

I just sent Jim a text, but I don't know if he is around. I'm heading out of town early or I'd help, but hopefully some other locals will chime in. Roger

[hd-dude]

Dan, indy's can't do the factory 2 year warranty work. Many (including us) can do the extended warranty work.

Check your battery connections at the battery to be sure they are tight. Also check the connectors at the voltage regulator. There are two, one from the stator on the left side and the output on the right side. They are held in place by a hinged plastic retainer. I have seen these come loose on more than one occasion.

I am in an all day class tomorrow but if your stuck I can help out on Sunday, I'll pm you my cell #.....

[backroad Mike]

Hope it's just a loose connection, but every time I've had those symptoms it was a bad stator.

[GregKhougaz]

Of course, my owners manual is at home.  Again, how do I check for error/trouble codes?

Dan

Dan,
There is an application available for Android phones called "V Twin Reference. In the diagnostics section, there are instructions how to check for trouble codes:

Diagnostic Check Procedure

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes). Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1. Turn Ignition switch to OFF and Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2. Push odometer reset button in and hold.

3. Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word diag should then appear.

4. Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu PSSPt with the first P flashing.

5. Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6. To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be displayed or the word none will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7. Record the codes.

8. If DTCs are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTCs again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9. Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10. Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

[lilcoot]

Everyone, thanks for your help.  You're the finest group of hell raisers and scoundrels I could hope to be associated with.  

Bike wouldn't start early in the morning, but it did start later after the temps warmed up this afternoon.  I was really surprised, but I'm not going to question divine intervention in this case.    Maybe Santa gave me an early Xmas gift, even if I am on the naughty list.  

Limped to House of Thunder in Morgan Hill, and they found the stator was bad.  Fixed under warranty, will be done before closing today.    That was definitely an early Xmas miracle!

Again, it's good to know there are people here that are just an email away that are willing to help in an emergency.  Thanks, all!  

Dan

[Trapperdog]

Good to hear you got it resolved