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Author Topic: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch  (Read 3112 times)

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cussius

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re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« on: June 17, 2014, 11:06:19 PM »

I have a 2010 street glide cvo. Had to remove banjo fitting at reservoir and lost my pressure. Have bled system several times but still no clutch. Was told to pull cover and manually push push rod (piston) in to allow fluid to pressurize, but push rod doesn't push in. What am I doing wrong?
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tweeter13

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2014, 11:25:39 PM »

I was wondering how you are bleeding?   Haven't done it my self on my bike but you should loosen the bleeder then pull the clutch lever in.  With the clutch lever still in tighten bleeder screw.  This will take a while to get the air out.  Check the fluid level and keep it with in spec.  Don't over fill with the Harley clutch the fluid raises as the clutch wears.  If you have access to a vacuum pump that may be better.  But like I have said haven't done it yet on my bike.   I will look for my manual and get back with you. 

Todd.
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cussius

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2014, 01:55:16 AM »

I'm using a hand actuated vacuum pump, which I'm told is the only way to do it successfully. Can't get enough air out of the line to even partially engage the clutch.
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Paulsmerc

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2014, 02:06:59 AM »

The system is not pressurized, it is just free of air, I had to bleed my front brakes at every banjo, starting at the closest to the master and working away, worked first time.
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Twolanerider

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2014, 02:14:22 AM »

I've not had excellent success with the little hand vacuum bleeders compared to doing it manually.  Try it like this and see if you have better luck.  You need arms long enough to reach the clutch lever and bleeder screw at the same time or a buddy to help.

Put a rubber line on the bleeder and drop the other end of that line in a catch can/jar/bottle/whatever.

With the clutch master cylinder full pump the lever slowly five or six times.  Then open the bleeder.  While still holding in the clutch lever retighten the bleeder.

Pump the lever slowly five or six times again.  Open then retighten the bleeder.

So long as there is no problem elsewhere and so long as you don't run the master cylinder dry that will bleed the system in relatively short order.

One other consideration.  You haven't switched to DOT5 fluid have you?  If so if the fluid you used was at all agitated it will entrain air within the fluid.  In that case it simply can't bleed until it's sat long enough for the air to escape (hours and sometimes days) or until the problem fluid is fully flushed with new fluid that has been more carefully handled.  This doesn't speak to the question of chasing whatever was in it to begin with with DOT5 and the panoply of questions that all too often brings up.  Hopefully you're not using DOT5 so it's all a moot point.
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cussius

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2014, 02:18:54 AM »

No dot 5, just dot 4 as recommended. Tried manual bleeding to no avail. No better luck with the hand vacuum pump.
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sadunbar

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2014, 08:17:31 AM »

No dot 5, just dot 4 as recommended. Tried manual bleeding to no avail. No better luck with the hand vacuum pump.

Try bleeding your system both by utilizing the bleeder screw on the side of the transmission side cover, and by bleeding the master cylinder itself at the banjo fitting (be very careful doing this so you don't spill fluid onto your painted surfaces).  If bleeding manually at these locations doesn't work, then you have something mechanically wrong...  A crack in your master cylinder or fitting, or a bad hydraulic line.  Something that is allowing air to re-enter what should be a sealed hydraulic system.
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grc

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2014, 08:47:37 AM »

I have a 2010 street glide cvo. Had to remove banjo fitting at reservoir and lost my pressure. Have bled system several times but still no clutch. Was told to pull cover and manually push push rod (piston) in to allow fluid to pressurize, but push rod doesn't push in. What am I doing wrong?

Let's start at the beginning.  Why did you have to remove the banjo fitting?  Did you replace the line or the master cylinder perhaps?  In other words, give us the full story and perhaps someone will be able to spot the potential problem.  There has to be something else going on here, or you're just not doing it correctly.  If you actually changed the line, it will take a long time to fill and bleed the system btw.  Patience is required in that case.

Jerry
« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 05:27:03 PM by grc »
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tweeter13

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2014, 10:52:42 PM »

I took a picture of procedure for touring model
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cussius

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Re: re-pressurizing hydraulic clutch
« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2014, 12:43:04 PM »

Thanks all. Ended up bleeding by hand and eventually getting my clutch back. Long process but worth the work I put into it.
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