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Author Topic: 110 rod/crank failure  (Read 8793 times)

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GMR-PERFORMANCE

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2014, 10:25:20 AM »

I highly doubt the OP leaving his bike stock to begin with, is looking for 160 hp.

I agree and that was how I read it , hence the 113 comment.. This is a member here that we just gave his stage III CVO a little bump. SE kit was using oil and not running very well. We took his 110 to a 113. Re used the SE 259 cam stock heads stock t/b and left the DD fat cat pipe alone re tuned. Now it is far from a hot rod , however the build is very basic and as you can see has a massive tq curve that would make 99% of any touring guy have a huge grin as he rolls on the throttle.

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Jswerve

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #16 on: September 17, 2014, 11:03:57 AM »

I agree and that was how I read it , hence the 113 comment.. This is a member here that we just gave his stage III CVO a little bump. SE kit was using oil and not running very well. We took his 110 to a 113. Re used the SE 259 cam stock heads stock t/b and left the DD fat cat pipe alone re tuned. Now it is far from a hot rod , however the build is very basic and as you can see has a massive tq curve that would make 99% of any touring guy have a huge grin as he rolls on the throttle.



That is a very respectable build with admirable results.  :2vrolijk_21:
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|Color Matched Detachable Tour Pak | Fuelmoto PV | Dragos 580 cams | Dragula 2-1/Ghost Pipe | Cyclesmith 13's | Sachs heads | Yaffe Stealth III License Plate Frame| Long Angled High

ultrarider123

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #17 on: September 17, 2014, 11:10:20 AM »

That is a very respectable build with admirable results.  :2vrolijk_21:

Sorta what I was'a'thinkin', too, Jesse.

GMR, without giving secrets away, ballpark cost on this build? 
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Jswerve

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2014, 11:11:32 AM »

Sorta what I was'a'thinkin', too, Jesse.

GMR, without giving secrets away, ballpark cost on this build?

Howard you took the words outta my mouth lol.
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|Color Matched Detachable Tour Pak | Fuelmoto PV | Dragos 580 cams | Dragula 2-1/Ghost Pipe | Cyclesmith 13's | Sachs heads | Yaffe Stealth III License Plate Frame| Long Angled High

GMR-PERFORMANCE

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #19 on: September 17, 2014, 11:47:31 AM »

AS for the 124 that was said to make 160.. Scott was talking a engine we built many years ago now.. I am always more than happy to explain that build.  Side track here just a bit and in a nutshell this is the build as how it came to be.


That  124....it did run very well. Bike was a 2002  Duece ,... It was not the typical 124 bore and stroke  though ,... build was a  4.250 bore  and 4 3/8 crank with heads that Reggie from R&R repaired. I had heard about a shop up on the NW right coast, some dyno sheets with woods cams that made big power,.. so I had them do the port work the first time .  Barn burner they said, will hit like a hammer in the basement and pull out up top... In the end the valve stem protrusion was increasing . Port work was not flowing what was stated also making a lot of noise in the heads .... Shop told me to grind the rocker arm to stop it from hitting the valve retainer ( one source of the noise). :oops:

Heads where boxed up and shipped to R&R cycle ..
 R&R welded the heads, and they became a  raised port version,  welded combustion chamber new seats valve sizes that are large even by todays standard.
We ran custom rocker arm ratios on both sides,( max lift just over 675)  RR did flow the heads before we started and then after. ( very cool to see the gains,.. bummer how poor the "ported" heads really flowed even with the flow sheet from that shop.. must have been the wrong sheets never did find out :nixweiss:)  But even still super cool to see how much air you really need to make those kinds of numbers.  :) The heads where monsters for power once R&R did the alterations.

  Welding of the Zippers 54 MM more port work there, trans work. back cut gears, coatings , and I never did see where it was stated the head pipe was a 1  3/4 head pipe. It was stated to be a white brothers E pipe but nothing more, just like it was never stated how much weight Hobans removed from the crank, after counter balancers where removed as well , Or the amount of crazy compression that was used took 4 comp releases to get the engine started..  :drink:

 How light the rear wheel was,  Back when you could still get 93 or even 94 octane fuel without additives. I did drive it on the street , it was not the most friendly set up and did not like light throttle stop and go traffic. But snap it open and it would get you where you needed to go in a hurry.

 I would have to say that bike had a lot of work into it to get the last few numbers out of it.. But I think most  would agree that is was "purpose built engine" ,   I agree Scott there are some really big number bikes out there.

Oh here is one that you built man that is making some truly unbelievable numbers :2vrolijk_21: ,  Cheers

Hope you don't mind I posted it ,  it is after all a softail  and mine was also a softail  you stated many times that you have issue posting dyno sheets and that sheets deserves to be shown. STD though .. maybe you have a SAE sheet?? not that it matters and even a cruise drive trans .. !!!


« Last Edit: September 17, 2014, 01:51:35 PM by GMR-PERFORMANCE »
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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2014, 09:39:20 PM »

 :vrolijk_11: :vrolijk_11: :vrolijk_11: :vrolijk_11:


I need a duck dynasty Emoticon ..

AS for the 124 that was said to make 160.. Scott was talking a engine we built many years ago now.. I am always more than happy to explain that build.  Side track here just a bit and in a nutshell this is the build as how it came to be.


That  124....it did run very well. Bike was a 2002  Duece ,... It was not the typical 124 bore and stroke  though ,... build was a  4.250 bore  and 4 3/8 crank with heads that Reggie from R&R repaired. I had heard about a shop up on the NW right coast, some dyno sheets with woods cams that made big power,.. so I had them do the port work the first time .  Barn burner they said, will hit like a hammer in the basement and pull out up top... In the end the valve stem protrusion was increasing . Port work was not flowing what was stated also making a lot of noise in the heads .... Shop told me to grind the rocker arm to stop it from hitting the valve retainer ( one source of the noise). :oops:

Heads where boxed up and shipped to R&R cycle ..
 R&R welded the heads, and they became a  raised port version,  welded combustion chamber new seats valve sizes that are large even by todays standard.
We ran custom rocker arm ratios on both sides,( max lift just over 675)  RR did flow the heads before we started and then after. ( very cool to see the gains,.. bummer how poor the "ported" heads really flowed even with the flow sheet from that shop.. must have been the wrong sheets never did find out :nixweiss:)  But even still super cool to see how much air you really need to make those kinds of numbers.  :) The heads where monsters for power once R&R did the alterations.

  Welding of the Zippers 54 MM more port work there, trans work. back cut gears, coatings , and I never did see where it was stated the head pipe was a 1  3/4 head pipe. It was stated to be a white brothers E pipe but nothing more, just like it was never stated how much weight Hobans removed from the crank, after counter balancers where removed as well , Or the amount of crazy compression that was used took 4 comp releases to get the engine started..  :drink:

 How light the rear wheel was,  Back when you could still get 93 or even 94 octane fuel without additives. I did drive it on the street , it was not the most friendly set up and did not like light throttle stop and go traffic. But snap it open and it would get you where you needed to go in a hurry.

 I would have to say that bike had a lot of work into it to get the last few numbers out of it.. But I think most  would agree that is was "purpose built engine" ,   I agree Scott there are some really big number bikes out there.

Oh here is one that you built man that is making some truly unbelievable numbers :2vrolijk_21: ,  Cheers

Hope you don't mind I posted it ,  it is after all a softail  and mine was also a softail  you stated many times that you have issue posting dyno sheets and that sheets deserves to be shown. STD though .. maybe you have a SAE sheet?? not that it matters and even a cruise drive trans .. !!!


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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #21 on: September 18, 2014, 01:22:29 AM »

I agree on some of the dyno sheets being a little hard to believe these days. Without pointing any fingers, I remember a 124 with only 10.5:1 compression and a 2-1 Rush Wrath pipe with only 2.5" baffle IIRC that made something like 150+ HP? 

On another note but semi related to the last couple of posts, Steve, thanks for the info the other day on the software we were discussing but something I meant to ask you the the other day about other software, with the new WinPep, have you noticed any difference in power output in regards to dyno sheets with the new 8 version? Hope to see you at Bikes, Blues. Maybe I'll buy you and the wife a round. If you have any desire to cut loose a little, the Willy D's dueling pianos bar in Dickson Street is a good time. Maybe I'll try to shoot you a text if we get over there.
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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #22 on: September 21, 2014, 02:43:35 PM »

103's have the same crank assy and don't have a lot of failures. 120R's get the snot beat out of 'em and don't have a lot of crank failures. They like the 110 have had lifter failures, most 120R owners get a proper tune which reduce operating temps. 110 owners would be wise to do the same. Hydroman, did you have a engine builder inspect the crank assy? Is the assy out of the cases?

Sorry been on the road the last several days,

Talked to my dealer about the situation, even though out of warranty they asked to come get it so they could have a look. When I saw it the top end was off and the crank was still in the bottom, still on the bike. The con rods were bad sloppy, all else looked good. Could not tell on crank bearings but spinning the crank I didn't notice anything alarming. Long story short the owner of the dealer I use was not happy as they know me and the bike. He went to bat with HD and HD believe it or not is standing behind this thing even though out of warranty. They are covering all parts and the Dealer is covering the labor on the rebuild. I'm paying the difference for S&S crank and lifters, also putting Fullsac X pipe and 2.5 inch baffles and tune into it. I just want a reliable bike that I can depend on, that runs down the road good. I have been happy with it until now, so I'm hoping by doing these things it will run a little better and most of all run when I have time to ride. I've been down the road with engine builds on previous bikes but now my hot rodding days are mostly behind me, my wife and I just like to do a little riding and a trip or two a year with no drama. 160 HP would be fun..but not with this bike, now if I had a second bike and some extra time and money??
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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #23 on: September 22, 2014, 07:23:40 AM »

Good to hear that it is being attended to.
Scott
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Ridgerunr

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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #24 on: September 22, 2014, 07:45:20 AM »

That's a stand up dealer you have, awesome. With the cat gone and a tune, you should be good to go. Enjoy.
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Re: 110 rod/crank failure
« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2014, 01:24:14 PM »

Sorry been on the road the last several days,

Talked to my dealer about the situation, even though out of warranty they asked to come get it so they could have a look. When I saw it the top end was off and the crank was still in the bottom, still on the bike. The con rods were bad sloppy, all else looked good. Could not tell on crank bearings but spinning the crank I didn't notice anything alarming. Long story short the owner of the dealer I use was not happy as they know me and the bike. He went to bat with HD and HD believe it or not is standing behind this thing even though out of warranty. They are covering all parts and the Dealer is covering the labor on the rebuild. I'm paying the difference for S&S crank and lifters, also putting Fullsac X pipe and 2.5 inch baffles and tune into it. I just want a reliable bike that I can depend on, that runs down the road good. I have been happy with it until now, so I'm hoping by doing these things it will run a little better and most of all run when I have time to ride. I've been down the road with engine builds on previous bikes but now my hot rodding days are mostly behind me, my wife and I just like to do a little riding and a trip or two a year with no drama. 160 HP would be fun..but not with this bike, now if I had a second bike and some extra time and money??

There are some Great Dealers out there, it's refreshing to hear of another one! I am fortunate to have a Great Dealer in Heritage Cycles H-D of Ft. Walton Beach, FL!

The S&S Crank / Lifters is a good move...
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