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[jimsfatboy2]

I picked up a 106 big bore kit from s&s. This includes cylinders,pistons, and rings. I have a set of andrews 54 cams. The s&s catalog says stock heads bring compression to 10:1 which is right in the ball park for these cams. What would be suggested if I was to rework my heads and what results could I expect. Also picking up a oil cooler and clutch. Any suggestions on clutch upgrade too? I have a 2013 flstf with a twin cam 103, vance and hines big radius pipes and D&m forward facing spear air cleaner with stage one.

[ltank]

The Andrews TW54 cams have a .555 lift, Intake valve closes @ 42°. A decent Mid range cam. Andrews site can give you info on your cam choice.
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/selection-guide/2-uncategorised/4-choosing-a-cam

[HD Street Performance]

If we were talking headwork first thing I would ask about would be how you ride and what you expect. Next what pipe do you have. In this case a change would be in order if you want to make decent power and torque. There are many good pipes for the softails but the V&H big radius is not one of them. If you love the pipe and don't mind leaving 10hp on the table it will work. Typical for a 103 b, headwork, and the 54 cam is 110/115 with a good pipe and tune. Move right up 5/3 with just .4 tenths added compression and another cam, no torque or loss of manors down low.

[Ridgerunr]

"There are many good pipes but the V&H big radius is not one of them"

Second that.

[ltank]

I never understood wanting torque to come on below 2200 rpm.
Running low and acceleration  rpm below 2200 rpm is chugging the motor that is bad on the bottom end. I never twist my throttle   
hard unless I am above 2400. Most of my Riding is 2800 to 4400
Rpm. On hwy I like 2800 to 3200 rpm not anything below 2500

[prodrag1320]

mild 1.900/1.575 headwork would be fine (i do agree with the previous poster about stabbing a motor at lower RPM`s too)

[jimsfatboy2]

How do i ride my bike? I like to twist the throttle, never lug the bike. I like to ride aggressively . I do absolutely love my v&H big radius. I am looking for more torque, more midrange.  I ordered a set of baffles from thunder city was looking for suggestion on what to do with my stock head and what is best clutch option for this build.

[jimsfatboy2]

any suggestions on headwork?

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Contraire' on that pipe not being able to work.
If the baffle is removed, and cut in half, that pipe DOES work.
As good as a D&D Fatcat or other 2/1 out there? No, but the Fatcat won't work $800.00 dollars better, either.
Does it show good power from a short pipe of that style. Yes indeed.
Headwork?
Our Stage II's would certainly be a good choice for that set-up.
Scott

[prodrag1320]

any suggestions on headwork?

like I said,mild 1.900/1.575 headwork will fine,also said before,those pipes are not doing anything for your torque

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Before you start cutting the baffles , I would suggest that you tune the bike, if the tq curve is not working well then you can start to alter the pipe. Being we are a shop that is tuning almost 200 bikes a year  we see that pipe often. No harm done to see what it makes before you start trimming.. We have in fact tested that very thing back to back..  And in many cases it will make ok low end power, the issue is lack of low end power or a dip.

Below is a 110 with the stock 255 cam had 210 CCP per hole. These bikes are not one that lack low end power with the stock cam.. This is what we ended up with after putting the stock baffle back in. As he read" that cutting them down was the thing to do"  I will look to pull up the before pulls.. Needless to say the low end was twice as bad as what you see there.   Not to say that one bike out there with a certain kit did not respond to trimming the baffle.. But the % of that being " written in stone" well you have a better change winning the mega lottery.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Cut the baffles and tune it.
Scott