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[Schwabie]

I'm so fired up! My very cool FXR3 was running like what seemed to be too lean in the low rpms:  Cold blooded and never quite running right below 60 degrees - a quick miss like a sneeze or cough while just pulling out of an idle or a light cruising speed. (Very hard to look cool while sneezing and coughing.) I tried backing out the idle mixture screw, maybe 3-1/2 turns now, and that helped, but very marginally. Then I pulled out the jet needle. (Part #5 in the HD repair manual that goes down through the vacuum piston.) There are no adjustment notches on the needle so I made a small shim to put under the needle's head that would raise the needle up. I made a guess at 1/8" and it worked! I went for a 100 mile run and not a single sneeze. The plugs look better too - a nice light tan. If anyone has a similar problem and wants to try it, the shim was 1/4" OD x 1/8" ID x 1/8" thick.
Gary

[Dan_Lockwood]

Good tip...

I also would have expected to see different "E" clip rings on the needle.  But this is probably part of the "no tamper" regulations necessary in later model carb bikes.

I have a carb Harley, a '76 Shovelhead FL, and it still runs the stock original carb.  It seems to be running well in all temps.  They said they were a piece of junk carb, but mine has been a very good one.

[MadCVORG]

Most of the aftermarket carb rebuild kits include a jet needle with notches for a c-clip, so you can adjust needle length. Lots of folks concentrate on the jets themselves, but  adjusting needle height is the best first-step to make when tuning your carb. Nice work.

[hrdtail78]

I have had good luck with shimming the stock needle.   I haven't had luck with any thing aftermarket in the CV besides a yost.  I don't even know if the yost has ever helped but I haven't seen it hurt.


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