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[Royalroadie]

I just had a problem today with the rear brake not disengaging the cruise.  I thought I felt it happen before but was not sure.  Several weeks ago I was riding with several other riders in a group and I thought it happened but I was not totally sure because I rolled the grip forward when I thought it did not release.   We stopped and had a cold one and it worked fine the next time I tried the rear brake to release the cruise.   Yesterday I was at the dealership to make sure the rear brake light switch had been repair under the recall.  The pulled it up that it had been done when the previous owner had it.  Brake lights were working and the cruise had not failed  to release using the rear brake pedal that evening.    Today was hotter and I rode longer and it happened again so I tried to make it fail to release several times and each time I could feel the engine starting to strain but the cruise did not release.  I pulled over an check to see if my brake light was coming on when I applied just the rear brake, no change in the light.  Front brake will deactivate the cruise, clutch will, and throttle sensor will also.   I have come to the conclusion that my rear brake light switch is the problem.   My motor was about 30* hotter using the oil temp gage as a reference.  After the bike cooled down all is fine.   I believe that as my brake light switch becomes heated it then starts to fail.

My question is twofold, has anyone else experienced this? Secondly is it easily replaced by the user and do you have to bleed the brake line when replacing the switch.  This is a 2012 street glide Cvo.

[GregKhougaz]

John, There was an HD recall on pre - Rushmore bike rear brake switches some years ago. I can't recall if it included the '12' s but you can check. Yes, the switch is easy to replace and less you must bleed the lines.

[Royalroadie]

John, There was an HD recall on pre - Rushmore bike rear brake switches some years ago. I can't recall if it included the '12' s but you can check. Yes, the switch is easy to replace and less you must bleed the lines.

Yes it was replaced under the recall by previous owner.  I just though that some would find the information possibly useful.  I believe that the problem is heat related. at least mine fails when it becomes heat saturated and then works when it cools down.  I am under the belief that you have to have some special tools to properly bleed the brakes on bikes with ABS.   I used to do this myself on my preABS bikes but not sure how much hassle it is on ABS systems.

[GregKhougaz]

This should help:

[Road Dad]

Have nothing to do with bleeding brakes. It's a sensor independent of pressure in the brake lines.

[KGB]

This should help:

This guy has a lot of good videos, he did at one time work at a dealer as as service advisor, but I don't think he's still doing that, but he always has a lot of good information!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Twolanerider]

Have nothing to do with bleeding brakes. It's a sensor independent of pressure in the brake lines.

The rear brake light switch is a pressure sensor.  Plumbed in to the rear brake line.  Front brake light switch is an electrical contact switch actuated by the right spoon.  Rear is a pressure switch though whose replacement does open up the rear brake line.

[Royalroadie]

The rear brake light switch is a pressure sensor.  Plumbed in to the rear brake line.  Front brake light switch is an electrical contact switch actuated by the right spoon.  Rear is a pressure switch though whose replacement does open up the rear brake line.

Thanks Don, that is what I thought.