Below are the steps I took in replace the LEDs in my instrument clusters. Comparing time/cost, it may make more sense to send this out (depending who you are) From start to finish, this would probably take me @2hrs to complete. If a 3rd party company is charging $200, I’d like to think my time is work more than $100 an hour… but if you like to tinker or you’re just board and don’t want to send your stuff through the mail, this is a pretty cool little project. I buy my LED’s (PLCC-2) from lighthouseleds.com They are only $.24 a piece and have lots of colors. ALWAYS BUY EXTRA!
The bike I worked on was a 2014 Street Glide (2013 and older will be a different process)
For the Speedometer/Tachometer combo:
• Using a small pry tool, carefully pry off the tin trim from the unit
• You will need to use a heat gun to warm up the adhesive in the middle and around the edges.
• Once tin trim is removed, remove the (3) torx screws
• Using a heat gun, carefully heat up the outer edges
• Once the area is warmed up, I found it was best to use an exacto-knife to break up the adhesive around the edges. (take your time)
• Once enough adhesive is removed from the edges, carefully pry out the black housing (the glass will remain attached to the black housing) See Pictures
• With the black housing/glass removed, use a plastic pry tool and pry off the indicator needles
• With the needles removed, carefully turn unit upside down and remove the speed/tach display unit (the speed/tach display will remain attached to the white housing (you will not need to pry the speed/tach display off the white housing)
• With the white housing/circuit board facing down, remove the metal clip under the odometer display. You will need to slightly lift up on the speed/tach display
• With the metal clip detached, carefully pry the white housing away from the circuit board
• You now have access to the LEDs on the circuit board
• My friend wanted Blue/White – I’ll post completed pics when done. Still waiting on the glass that I broke
For Fuel and Battery gauges – much easier
Unlike the 2013 and older touring models, the fuel and batter gauges are not bulbs, but LEDs as well.
• Carefully pry off the silver plastic trim from the unit
• Remove the housing from the unit (black housing for Fuel – white housing for Batt)
• Using a heat gun, carefully heat up the glass
• With a small plastic pry tool, pry up the glass (don’t rush this)
• With the glass removed, use a small plastic pry tool and pry off the indicator needle
• With the needle removed, use the heat gun again and carefully warm up the display cover
• Using a small plastic pry tool, pry up the display cover
• With the display cover removed, remove the (2) torx screws
• With the screws removed, remove the white trim from the housing unit
• With the white trim removed, pull out the circuit board
• You now have access to the LEDs on the circuit board
-Cheers