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Author Topic: HOW-TO-----Trailering  (Read 8296 times)

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ultrafxr

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #30 on: November 25, 2007, 12:50:42 PM »

I don't have a trailer but had to borrow MJZ's recently to go get my bike when it broke down.  Dealer who had it helped me load it and they advised tying it the way they did when they hauled it to their shop.  That is by using soft ties around the front fork legs above the brake calipers.  This does not compress the suspension and ties the bike down very well.  Pros / cons on tying off here?
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #31 on: November 25, 2007, 12:56:36 PM »

I don't have a trailer but had to borrow MJZ's recently to go get my bike when it broke down.  Dealer who had it helped me load it and they advised tying it the way they did when they hauled it to their shop.  That is by using soft ties around the front fork legs above the brake calipers.  This does not compress the suspension and ties the bike down very well.  Pros / cons on tying off here?

Sounds like an idea to try.
Although with the method I currently use I won't need to try that (BikePro chocks and tire tie down).
I still would like to use straps up high though, to counteract the centrifugal force on turns trying to pull the bike over.
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #32 on: November 25, 2007, 01:12:56 PM »

I always block the frame right under the engine with a stack of 2 x 12 by 1 foot long before tightening the straps down so there is no suspension working to loosen the straps. It also prevents the bike from falling over immediately if a strap chafes or whatever. It keeps the bike from moving around at all.


Gettingold Dave uses this method. I prefer to have the bike ride on it's own suspension.
My trailer rides smooth, but the bottom line, 15" tires only cover so much ground, and there are roads out there that can make for a jarring ride. Remember, most of our small trailers have limited suspension (of which the torsion is way smoother) and they don't have shocks.

I think that if the bike is being tied down so tight as to cause issues with the straps, then it is too tight.
The straps we use will all stretch a bit after being torqued down (about 10-20% is possible with nylon). Best way to counter that is to ride a bit and then adjust the straps.
We use straps instead of chains or binders because they do give a bit.

  • My preferred method is:
    • Tie the wheel down securely to the chock
    • Straps somewhere up high on the front to minimize side to side motion-lean
    • Straps to the saddlebag guards to stop the rear from slipping side to side
    • And if on a long tow - one strap around the rear wheel to keep a rearward pull for those "unexpected" stops

    Now, when I have 2 bikes in the trailer, especially dressers, I tend to use extra straps. My trailer is 6.6' on the inside and that is the minimum for 2 dressers, staggered.
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BAKRDS

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #33 on: November 25, 2007, 08:01:33 PM »

whatever trailer you end up with check how The D-rings are attached.My 7 x 12 Homesteader had 1/4-20 self drilling bolts into steel crossmembers.Had to cut the drill end off to put a nut on over a fender washer.Go for the 7x14 if it's not to late.Plenty of room for 2 dressers just in case.Think my friends have put more miles on my trailer than I have.
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